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Popping noise while turning

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by rampage, Oct 29, 2001.

  1. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I have this popping noise coming anywhere from the passenger side somewhere. It sounds like it could be coming from the passenger seat on forward. It's not the frame/steering box because I keep a close eye on that. I was just wondering what areas I should be focused on when I have someone inside turning the wheel while I'm underneath. I was thinking, springs, spring mounts, body mount, cross member rivits. Also, I just did my front hubs so I know they are tight. I've also check the axle u-bolts, tranny/transfer case mounts and they all seem to be tight. I know others have had this passenger side popping noise ... so what was the solution?
     
  2. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    did you see if you're ball joints need replacing?

    Peace and stuff [​IMG],

    Muddin

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/muddin4fun79blazer>www.geocities.com/muddin4fun79blazer</a>
     
  3. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    Iv had the front body mounts (not the ones under the core support,the next ones back) make popping noises before when I would turn.The popping noise I got on the passenger side front now is because of a big crack in the cross member that runs under the engine.

    A balanced diet is a beer in both hands.<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</a>
     
  4. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    What's the best way to check for toasted ball joints?
    How much play should I be looking for and also how hard is it to replace? (like special tools, time, will it be hard to remove)
    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by rampage on 10/29/01 05:40 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  5. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    Jack up the truck to get one or both the front wheels off the ground. Then grab the bottom and the top of the tire and see if you can wiggle it that way. There really shouldn't be any play in it. If you can wiggle it, your ball joints are prolly bad. You would also want to go around the front end and see if there is anything else that needs to be replaced like tie rod ends, etc.

    Peace and stuff [​IMG],

    Muddin

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/muddin4fun79blazer>www.geocities.com/muddin4fun79blazer</a>
     
  6. Nonesuch

    Nonesuch 1/2 ton status

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    when you put in new hubs did you properly torque the spindle nuts? i put a new rotor on mine and didnt correctly torque the spindle nuts and i was having some popping sounds. Just an idea!
    Justin
     
  7. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    That's why I did my hubs last week, to see if it would cure the noise. Obvisously it didn't but they needed to be done anyways. Adjusting/spindle nuts were torqued correctly: 60 ft/lbs while rotating hub to seat bearings, back off and re-torque to 60 ft/lbs, put on lock ring and the spindle nut torqued to 160 ft/lbs. Hub rotates freely, but not loose.
     
  8. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Mine used to do that, then I replaced the ball joints and didn't think about it, but now that I think about it, I haven't heard it in a while, so I'm pretty sure thats what it was.

    90K5
     
  9. CV202

    CV202 1/2 ton status

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    Every once and a while the joint at the end of the steering shaft (where it goes into the box) would just catch on the edge of my inner fender well and "pop" it, don't know why it does this, just need to hit the area with a nibbler.

    Why do people keep calling it a Bronco!!!!! [​IMG]
     
  10. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, so it sounds like I gotta tear the rotor off again. DAMN, I hate doing the same job twice [​IMG]
     
  11. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Well If your'e doing the ball joints, you're just getting warmed up when the hub and rotor are off! If you tear into a side, go ahead and do both the upper and lower, the time on these is a bigger deal than the cost.

    A good way to check for play is to put your finger behind the wheel so that it is touching both the steering knuckle and the axle steering flange. Then pry up and down on the tire with a pry bar (the wheel is off the ground, of course) and if there is any movement in the ball joint, your finger will pick it up. You can do it on the top and on the bottom. Any movement is too much.

    <font color=green>There's nothing like the smell of a rich V-8 in the morning...</font color=green>
     

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