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POR-15 or paint

Discussion in 'The Body Shop' started by Topdown, Dec 8, 2004.

  1. Topdown

    Topdown 1/2 ton status

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    I have my project frame clean and bare (bare steel) and will be at the point of decision here in a day or two as to what I should do with it.

    Should I POR-15 it? There is very little rust, light surface that was mostly removed when I took the frame to bare steel and a few little spots of pitted rust where it was obvious a metal to metal contact spot.

    So...

    POR-15 or primer/paint?
     
  2. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Did mine in por, it is a real good product and it is real Durable.
     
  3. Topdown

    Topdown 1/2 ton status

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    since I have never used POR, can it be used on bare/clean steel with no rust on it? does it still give the same durability?
     
  4. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    they sell a product for that, its called metal ready. you just spray it on bare metal and wait for it to dry then brush the por over it. good as new:waytogo:
     
  5. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    You can paint this stuff on a rusty surface as long as there is no loose rust and it will seal the rust in.
     
  6. 85burbanator

    85burbanator 1/2 ton status

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    with the rust sealed in wont it keep rusting on the inside? or will it stop since theres no oxygen to further the oxidation process?
     
  7. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    It seals it off so there is no more oxygen to further the rust.
     
  8. 85burbanator

    85burbanator 1/2 ton status

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    thats what i was thinking. thanks.
     
  9. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    How clean is it???
    If there is no rust...I'd use epoxy primer...
    the acids and rust prohibitors...are the best.

    POR15 is just for sufficating rust..
    I used it on my purple k5 about 10 years ago..
    Most of it.. has flaked-off... (Sure I did it right)
     
  10. Topdown

    Topdown 1/2 ton status

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    its pretty damn clean... there is one section about 12" long that is mildly pitted but otherwise there are no rust spots.

    Thats one reason I was thinking of primer/paint but this is going to be the frame of a trail rig... I want something hard and as durable as possible so I dont have to go back and touch it up after every run to keep it from rusting.

    I am thinking of using the "hard nosed paint" from POR to paint the body of the truggy for its durability.
     
  11. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    For sure POR primer and finish, after fabbing my buds J**P frame I used it and it looked awesome. Also I thought it was going to get nicked a few times, HA tough as nails!
     
  12. Topdown

    Topdown 1/2 ton status

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    Welcome back...

    I am still bouncing back and forth. Though I am leaning toward POR.
     
  13. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    To give you an idea how tough it is after I finished the frame I put the cab back on the frame.I decided to do the firewall with por. I was using Aircraft stripper to remove the old paint, I spilled some by Accident on the frame. I could not believe it did not hurt the Por at all. Aircraft stripper is some wicked stuff.
     
  14. ramjet gmc

    ramjet gmc CK5 Staff Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    wow i put it on my axels 4 years ago and it only chips whit a hamer -- or rock rash
     
  15. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    On frames and axles...it works better.
    The POR-15 I sprayed on the pan...flaked-off.
    What I have found with POR-15 is...
    when you spray the underbody..around the seams..
    Since POR is so heavy..and doesn't flex much...
    it cracks...and allows moisture to get behind it..
    Then the moisture gets trapped...and rust holes start.

    I lost a Texas k5 pan to that stuff.

    The k30 frame I'm working on has that stuff on it too...
    Sure...it's probably been on there for a 10 years...but it's flaking off too.

    I guess...I like using the new tech urathanes/epoxies..
    they cost as much...and last much longer.
     
  16. leadfoot067

    leadfoot067 1/2 ton status

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  17. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    To POR-15 a frame...takes longer also..
    I can spray 2 coats of epoxy...let it flash 1 hour...then spray color.
    With POR-15...dry time is much longer..it takes at least a day to get out of dust...and you need to let it dry for a day before color coating.
     
  18. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I've used POR-15 a long time,had mixed results--I found it seems to work better when brushed on right over rusted metal(thats been wirebrushed to get all the loose stuff off first) than it does on clean bare metal--I painted a sandblasted frame and it was coming off in about a year,another one I just cleaned off the grime and painted over the surface rust and it stayed like new for 5 years,then it finally started to fade and peel some..it needs the rust to cause the chemical reaction to harden it right I guess...it lasts forever inside the truck cab on floors,etc--..but for all the expense,I think a good prep job and painting with Rustoleum or similar industrial paints would have similar results--here in new england,not even POR-15 can stop mother nature--only slows her down a little!.It does work better than regular paint,but sometimes I wonder if its really worth it--and its kind of hard to clean up,dont get any on your hootas!!

    This new forum is going to take some getting used too--I miss the smiley's already-----
     
  19. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    i tend to agree.. if its a problem area with rust that can't be cleaned, its an alternative. god knows i use gallons of the stuff in boats. but if i have clean steel, its zinc, epoxy, urethane... definitely the more proper way to do it...
     
  20. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Oh...yah...zinc...now your talkin'!!! :thumb: :thumb:
     

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