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POR-15 vs. Zero Rust

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by solowookie, Apr 1, 2002.

  1. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    guy that owns autobodystore.com <a target="_blank" href=http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?read=63492>did this test &amp; posted pic's</a> so if your considering using one or the other check it out.
     
  2. jimmy88

    jimmy88 1/2 ton status

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    Even I can figure that one out. Good to know. Eastwood sells Corroless, I wonder how that compares. Who sells Zero Rust?
     
  3. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not sure - you can buy it direct, or get it from an autobody supply.
     
  4. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    "I initially started this product evaluation shortly after I started selling Zero Rust in October of 2000"

    I think that says take this with a grain of salt... even if the guy sells both products, I since some of this is a little sales pitch. But on the other hand... I'm willing to give zero rust a try out of the jug. I used the ZR aerosal cans on the underside of my truck where the new support piece went in and ya know what? It is covered in surface rust after about a month and a half! Not very impressed with an aresol, but will take it in on the hoist at the shop... sand it down and use either the jug of POR or ZR... then of course will add undercoating over it.
     
  5. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    I am wearing of tests where there is obvious bias.
    There is several 'permanenet' anti-rust paints out there, Corrolass (sic) being one of them too. I think they probably all work pretty well.
    I use POR and like it. I'm in the middle of doing the interior now.
    -- Mike
     
  6. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    YEah, I dunno. I've never used Zero Rust, nor coro-less, but I have used the other products avalaible, including por 15, por putty, and just about everything else you can get at an autoparts store (Rustoleum, rust stop, rust convert, etc).

    the only one that worked for me was the por15 products. I painted some steel bumpers with it after I got it, without using metal ready... and let me tell you after 6 months of leaving it in the yard, it became painfully obvious which parts were painted, and which werent.

    The picture.. I dunno, Im skeptacle. it looks as if the old surface wasnt prepped right, You can use metal ready, but metal ready aint going to remove old paint, which looks like is what flaked off. POR 15 specifically states that unless there is a direct metal contact, the POR15 is only as strong as the base paint below it.

    A true test would be to have a rep from Zero Rust and a Rep from por 15 each do a piece of metal, which then gets thrown through a battery of tests....just my two cents.

    Obviously, both parties would try their best to make sure it doesnt fail.

    Oh, and, btw.. a battery try often gets overflowed sulfuric acid when it boils in a hot summer, and its a little bit more corossive in my opinion compared to salt water. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  7. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    the bodyshop guy here swears by zr, but I've heard a lot of people sold on both. to me it would depend on how the metal was; clean rust free metal I'd use ZR, rusted metal I'd probably use POR-15.
     
  8. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    I agree with Pookster... plus looking at the ZR... it too is starting to rust in the corners and creases. Plus who is to say the POR was done at the same time? POR has been around for about 10-12 years if you had the connections for it.
     

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