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Possible Rear Diff Choices: HELP!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BillyBob, Aug 9, 2000.

  1. BillyBob

    BillyBob 1/2 ton status

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    I wanna ditch the 12 bolt under my truck for something heavier duty. This is gonna be down the road a bit, but I want some feedback as to what could be best.
    My first choice is to get a 14 bolt semi-floater.. either a 6 lug, or an 8 lug to convert to a 6. This would probably be one of the easier conversions, since I can use my current rims and tires untill I go to 35s. However, 14 bolt s/fs are kinda hard to find where I live. Also, an 8 lug may cost a bit to convert.. but it has the neccesary mounts to bolt right under my truck.
    Or, I could go for a 14 bolt full floater. I would probably never break the thing on the trails I've been on. However, I would have to get 8 lug rims (not that expensive.. but I'd have to order them and remount my tires)and convert my 10 bolt front to 8 lug. It would involve a bit of work, but I'm sure I couldn't break the thing.
    Third is the possibility of getting a Dana 60. BigGray71 may get a spare, and sell it to me. I could convert it to a 6 lug, 35 spline s/f axel.. it would be pretty much bulletproof.. however the conversion may be costly with new axle shafts and a new driveshaft necessary.
    Finally, I could get a full floater kit for the 12. Since I'm only going up to 35" tires w/ a 4" lift, I don't need a super strong diff capable of having 44" swampers on it. The only problem I have with the FF kit is that it's $700. It's extremely costly for just an axel upgrade.
    I could use some advice. However, in the case of the 14 bolts, I have to go looking in junkyards. The Dana isn't a definate deal, and I could order the 12 bolt FF kit from Warn. I just want something that will last me a long time, I can slap a full case locker in, and not have to worry about things like big tires, mud,rocks,and daily road use breaking it. Gimme some suggestions.

    http://billybob.coloradok5.com
    It's all fun 'n games, till someone gets stuck.
     
  2. 4GUNZ4X4Z

    4GUNZ4X4Z 1/2 ton status

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    14bolt s/f why? Why do all the extra work for a s/f, when you ca get a f/f? If you r not going any bigger then 35" or 36" then I would stay with what you have. I would consider the warn f/f conversion kit, I dont remember it bein g that expensive, but if it is the cost will come down, due to the fact its a new product. If u go with the 14corp and d60 front then do it right and dont mess with the s/f thats insane. 8lug 6lug whats it matter if you need to get wheels. This is only my opinion from a chevy man 2 a chevy man.

    Professional JEEP EATER, it's a population control thing
     
  3. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    The s/f 14 bolt should be pretty comparable in strength to the Dana 60. With it's 9.5" ring gear and 33 spline shafts you will probably have a hard time breaking it with 35" tires. The main issue is that, I believe, all of the models that will bolt in to your vehicle are 8-lug....while the later factory 6-lug versions would require the spring and shock mounts to be modified. However, I think it's possible to simply have the original 8 lug shafts and drums re-drilled. Moser Engineering's webpage has a pricelist of $100 for the shafts and drums, though I have not called to confirm the price or if they can indeed do this.
     
  4. realsquash

    realsquash 1/2 ton status

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    Look into getting a dana 60 from the rear of a ford pickup. They use a semi-floating version for a few years on F250s in the 1980's that could be converted to 6-lug. Or get a 60 FF outta a ford from the 70s and move the spring perches. Check into a dodge version, also. The D60 will give more ground clearance than a 14BFF, but you still get a 9.5" ring gear and full-floating axles. 14-bolts are cheap and easy to find, but sometimes those 60's are, too.

    Squash
    http://www.trailrunners4x4.org/users/realsquash
     
  5. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Just remember that Dana 60 will require some fabrication for moving the spring perches and shock mounts to fit in a GM. There might also be an issue with adapting the brake lines and parking brake cables.
    If you really want to stay with the 6-lug pattern, I think you are stuck with a semi-floating design as the protruding full floating hub does not leave enough room for the smaller 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern.
    I honestly don't think a s/f 60 has much, if any, strength or ground clearance advantage over a s/f 9.5" 14-bolt. Also, at least around here, the s/f 14's are pretty common and reasonably priced while the s/f 60's are a little harder to find.
     

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