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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by JohnnyFresno, Jul 10, 2002.
I have almost the identical seats in my Jimmy. They don't bolt up though. Sparky87K5 gave them to me when he got new seats. He had built a large tube frame that bolts to the floor and the seats mount on that. It's extremely sturdy and the seats are comfy! /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
Did you have to modify the seatbelt bickle or did the GM Belt fit into the Honda ones?
I kept the GM belts. The female end bolts to the floor of the truck and the shoulder/lap part is attached to the 'B' pillar and lower body.
<font color="green"> I did the exact same thing as Rene using '92 Acura Integra seats, which probably have an almost identical mount to those Accord seats. The tube frame on the floor that mounts to the factoy points is the easiest way I though of to mount them up, and I used the factory seatbelt from the truck also. You can kind of see the frame here. The only advice I have is that if you're tall, build the frame as low profile as possible. I'm 6' with a long torso and I've hit my head on the ceiling a couple of times.
Like everyone else said, Youll have to make a base or something to bolt it too. Ive got a set of 6 way power buckets out of a 99 Durango in my 86 K10. I was able to bend the mouting points to fit 3 of the bolt to the original GM mount, and had to fabricat a 4th mount.
I am running '95 Bonneville seats in mine. The drivers side was power until I tried making my Jimmy a submarine....
The bolt holes didn't line up so I made some spacers and redrilled the floor. I wouldn't recommend that idea. When I swap these seats into my 86, I will get some C-channel and line everything up...
Nice guage set-up! Got any pic's or a write up on that?
Sweet guages there. Did you do that yourself or a shop do it? How much did it cost yah?
<font color="green"> Thenks Rene and Johnny. I don't have a write up on it, but I can give a basic run down of how I did it. I'm still working on getting them angled up so they point at my face intead of my belly, but they're still pretty easy to read the way they are, they just look funny. There's quite a few pictures of the gauges here. When I pull them out to angle them up I'll take some shots of the backside.
Basically I just used the stock bezel with the holes enlarged to fit the 5" and 2 5/8 gauges. A single piece of aluminum was cut, bent and screwed to the front of the bezel to help reinforce it. The laminated circuit board was removed from the dash and all of the original gauges were taken out of the plastic backing plate. At this point everything that wasn't related to either attaching the backing plate to the dash or the bezel to the backing plate was cut off. The Autometers are alot deeper than the original gauges so this had to be done so they could go all the way in and sit flush. After tracing all of the leads in the original laminated circuit thingy from the gauge cluster back to the original wiring harness I drew a wiring diagram and cut off the dashboard end of the stock harness. I then wired all of the new gauges into a new harness that I got at Radio shack, and put the other side of the new harness on the wires from the dash. This way the gauges remove from the truck just as easily as the stock one did, I just unplug one harness and the whole deal coms right out, except for the oil pressure and water temp gauges, since they are mechanical. They've worked perfectly sicnce the day I installed them, and look pretty nice too. Like I said before, I am going to angle them up as soon as I find suitable materials, and I'll probably strip the paint off of the aluminum bezel and either polish or brush it.
It cost basically the price of the gauges plus some wiring stuff and a chunk of 3/16 aluminum. Probably $550 or so, the vast majority for the gauges. Can't even imagine how much a shop would charge to do it, I spent a lot of time cutting the original dash peices to make everything fit. The wiring was time consuming only because the wiring diagrams that I had listed the wrong colors so I had to trace everything myself. I basically put the whole thing together and had the bezel in the house all wired up, then went out to the truck and installed the new harness using my wiring diagram that I drew to plan the when I was laying out the new harness. After that I took the whole bezel outside, gauges and all, plugged it in, hooked up the oil pressure and water temp gauges, and the thing worked on the first try. It was a good day /forums/images/icons/grin.gif .
Oh yeah, all the lights are flush mount LEDs from Radio Shack. Green for turn signals, orange for high beams, I didn;t ut any of the other idiot lights back in since they didn't work anyways.
Pretty cool Evan! I used to have a functional link to a similarly done dash, but all the pic's don't work on the guys site anymore. If I was smart I would have saved the site contents to my computer at the time./forums/images/icons/frown.gif
I have a 160 mph speedo too...it's supposed to be a 160 km/h speedo but it reads closer to mph than km/h /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif At 63 mph it reads 72 km/h.
<font color="green"> Yeah, the 160mph speedo is pretty ridiculous in a truck that tops out at about 90 and is never even driven faster than 65. That will change when I'm running 38s on 5.13s though /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif. I had a speedo shop build a conversion box for my speedo since Autometers use a different ratio than stock. As a result the speedo in my truck is dead on, even closer than the one in my 99 S-10 /forums/images/icons/cool.gif </font color>
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