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Powder-coating

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Dan79, Jul 24, 2001.

  1. Dan79

    Dan79 Newbie

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    I am restoring a 1979 Blazer and have got it down to the frame. The frame will be sandblasted in the next couple of weeks. I would like to have it powder-coated but don't know of any places by me. I'm near Chicago,IL. Has anyone heard of any places near me that specialize in automotive?
     
  2. J.R.

    J.R. Guest

    the only place i know of is in Olathe Kansas. thats a ways from you tho.. you might want to call a few shops and ask around...

    BIG BLOCK MAN
    "MORE POWER"!!
     
  3. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

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    I have never been impressed with the "advanced technology" of powder coating. I have had multiple parts from multiple sources fail and all the PC blew off with rust after a few years....IMO if you want it to last use POR15. You can topcoat it if you are after a specific color

    "There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
    Luke
    84 K5
     
  4. CV202

    CV202 1/2 ton status

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    I have to agree with Cavalry, go with POR15 or Corroless and then topcoat it with the color of your choice. It'll last you alot longer, and take more abuse.

    Why do people keep calling it a Bronco!!!!! [​IMG]
     
  5. CV202

    CV202 1/2 ton status

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    ....Or, if your hearts absolutely set on powdercoating, Sears sells a home powdercoating setup in their Auto Shop catalog for low money. Even if you don't get the machine, there's plenty of cool stuff in it.

    Why do people keep calling it a Bronco!!!!! [​IMG]
     
  6. riz

    riz 3/4 ton status

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    <font color=purple> Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought powder coating was REAL strong stuff and with a nice luster to boot ????

    L8r,
    . Riz . <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/rizmonkey>www.geocities.com/rizmonkey</a>
     
  7. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    That Sears catalog is just an Eastwood Automotive catalog with the names changed to protect the innocent. [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  8. 88streetblaze

    88streetblaze 1/2 ton status

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    from my dealings with powdercoat the stuff is p.i.t.a. to take off. i p.c. my battery box that almost chrome(almost is right) anyways they recomend to put a clear coat of p.c on it well i goofed and didn't cook it right and it turned kind of gold so i went to sandblast it off and the stuff would not come off. it took two 100lbs bags of sand to take the stuff off. i have noticed that if the parts aren't perfectly clean then it's another story about how it holds up....just my $.02
     
  9. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Powder coating is real strong. The problem (which is a problem with any type of paint, but more so powder coat) is with surface prep. I have had items that were powder coated flake right off and rust. It was not the powdercoats fault, it was sticking to the surface it was put on. If the surface has lint, dirt, oil, etc. the powdercoat will stick to that instead of the intended surface. After time it works free and flakes. A good powdercoat will last a long, long time. When I did my frame (after de-rivetting it), I hand sanded, primed, put a heavy coat of a product called "iron clad" flat black, and finished with a spray coat of black. I live in New England with snow, salt, and sand, and it has lasted 3 years so far without a sign of rust, flaking, dimpling, crust, bubbling, etc. If I ever do it again I would probably try powdercoating it. P.S. If you don't clean every knook and cranny, or derivet like I did, the powdercoat wont stay in the little crevices (like where the crossmembers and spring-hangers meet the frame).

    If you didn't build it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
     
  10. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I'm having my K5 body powder coated as we speak. I've never heard of a home based powdercoating system for large parts. You need to place the object that you coated into an oven and bake it at 400 degress for (i think) 30 mins. I don't see how you could do that for a frame. Basically what I'm doing for surface prep is having the parts chemically stripped and then dipped in phosphate to prevent rusting on the places that the powdercoating can't get into, like the seams. Chicago should have a number of places that do powdercoating. I'm sure if you look around the city you'll find that things like newspaper stands, mailboxes, Harley frames that are coated and I'm sure that's done locally. Also, sandblasting might leave too hard of a finish on the metal part for the powdercoating to adhere to, but you might want to check with the person who is doing the coating about this. Otherwise you might be sanding the frame a little.
     
  11. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I just did a search under Yahoo and came up with a few places.
    Eron Enterprises Ltd 5320 N Elston Ave Chicago, IL (773) 286-2990
    Powder Coating Technologies 4825 W Grand Ave Chicago, IL (773) 745-8000
    R &amp; B Powder Coating 4000 S Bell Ave Chicago, IL (773) 247-8300
    Tri Powdercoating 2541 S Washtenaw Ave Chicago, IL (773) 847-4800
     
  12. 88streetblaze

    88streetblaze 1/2 ton status

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    i've seen powdercoated frames. the only thing that limits the size of the objects that can be coated is the size of the oven. of you can spend $450 of the i-r heater from eastwood but that dosen't look like it will work very well.
     

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