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Power Steering Gear Box Swap/Setup????

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Burt4x4, Jun 28, 2001.

  1. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Ok gang need some set up info here.
    I am swapin my Pwr Steering gear box this weekend and I would like to here how the heck do I set up the box?
    Bolting it to the frame is easy but how do you set up the input and out put shafts with the front tires and steering wheel??
    Also do I need to do any kind of bleeding, like you do with a Mastercylinder???
    Any and all tips and tricks is greatly appreitiated!!

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
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  2. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Are you replacing it with the same type box? 4WD box to 4WD box or are you doing some time of conversion 4WD box to 2WD box (for crossover steering)? Reason for replacing if not same as above.

    If you didn't built it yourself, how can you call it yours.......?
     
  3. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    It will be a direct swap 4x box for 4x box.
    I guess I just don't know how I am suppose to line up the steering arm/draglink with the box? Or does it just line up by itself and then just straighten out/adjust the steering wheel????

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
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  4. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    Burt,

    This is what I did. First, center the steering wheel/tires.
    Now, remove the ragjoint/and gear box from the shaft (if you have a stock shaft, you'll have the rag joint, if not, just remove the box) Oh, first remove the pitman arm from the draglink.
    Ok, now remove the pitman arm from the box (need a pitman puller).
    With the new box, first put the ragjoint on the box (you'll need a 12point socket 11mm size or I think it was 7/16 size (but I know it was 11mm for sure). What I did was I turned the input shaft all the way left, like if it was full left turn (before I installed it). Then I put the pitman arm on and turn it to center. Then put the box back on the shaft and then bolt on the frame. With the ragjoint, it will let you know exactly where to put it on the shaft (not sure with aftermarket shafts).
    Reconnect the hoses. Yes, you'll need to Bleedthe system. Put a cooler in now while you're at it too, if not done already.
    Ok, jack up the axle and rest on jack stands. Put fluid in the reservoir. Have someone turn the wheel full left and right while you keep an eye on the fluid in the res. It will rise and want to overflow, but tell the dude to stop when it does, then it'll sink and tell him to go. You'll see air bubbles coming from underneath. Continue to do this until no more bubbles. Now, put the truck back on the ground and crank the motor. Turn the wheel back and forth and make sure no noise. Once that's all good, you're done. if not, bleed all over again (motor has to be cool though)
    Boss

    89' 1 TON of FUN K5
     
  5. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    OK so the pitman arm will only fit on the output shaft one way? Or can it be mounted in the 'wrong' position?
    I think I got the rest of what you were saying, I'm sure I'll figure it out.....oh and yes I do have a cooler and an aftermarket ujoint steering shaft.


    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
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  6. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    With the 4WD gear box, I think you can only put the arm on 2 different ways. Maybe one, but I'm thinking 2.
    With the 2WD box, you can put it on 4 different ways [​IMG] So that's why I did the turn it left method and put the pitman arm on to the left and then center it.
    With the after market shaft, it should be easier.
    Oh, and with the cooler, you'll have to bleed more :)
    Boss

    89' 1 TON of FUN K5
     
  7. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Ok cool! I see the light!! Thanks Boss![​IMG]
    It should be a straight swap done in two hrs as long as that GD Mr. Murphy stays the hell away from me this time I will be alright!!hehehe

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
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  8. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    I swapped 3 boxes out in my truck when I got it. Each one took about 10 minutes to physically swap. Everything on mine was stock and slotted, so alignment was built in.
    But I'm with boss on the alignment method if things are not slotted.
    Mine was 7/16, and you will need a 12 point socket. When I did mine, I unbolted and pried it upward away from the box. It was cake. All three pitmans popped on and off easy as pie with a quick spray of liquid wrench, too.
    My big problem (and the reason I did it 3 times), was the the hose fitting. I had gotten junkyard boxes, 1st from a '73, 2nd from an '83, and the hose fittings were both different from each other and my '88. I did the job on a sunday night, with no parts stores open, so I hacked up and re-flared my hose fittings, then re-hacked them. Then finally went back to my original box, which was misdiagnosed by the previous owner (and I stupidly just took his word and never even checked), and had to spend $30 on a new high-pressure hose (low pressure side is STILL leaking).

    Good luck!

    Ratch
    **<A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5.8m.com>http://k5.8m.com</A> What more is there to life?**
     
  9. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    Hey NewYork,

    Here's the deal, 65' to 79' GM came with "Flare" fitting hoses. 80' and up came with "O-ring" fitting hoses. You have to make sure you get a box that falls into your year. That's why I'm so pissed at AGR. They sent me a Flare fitting style box, knowing I have an 89' and they also sent me an O-ring style PS pump at the same time. How the hell am I suppose to make that work???!!! Anyhow, enough about that, but that's why you had trouble with your boxes.
    Boss

    89' 1 TON of FUN K5
     
  10. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    I noticed last night that my box is leaking pretty bad. And I believe it is the box, not the hoses. Is there anything besides degreasing it and watching it that woudl make it easiest to tell which is leaking? Or should I replace the hoses first. Then, if it still leaks replace the box and already have new hoses or if it doesn't I know it is fixed. Where would you guys recommend buying a new box? I am on a budget, but need something reliable. It's a daily driver. I don't want to risk the junkyard route.

    85 GMC Jimmy, 305 w/TH700-NP208, 4" lift, 32X11.5 BFG ATs, 15x10 Eagles, Smittybuilt tube nerf bars and bumbers
     
  11. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I was looking for an upgrade but not for 350+ so I just went to my local NAPA and bought their remanufactured unit fer 179.
    For your leak, do what your thinking. Start with the hoses and go from there...
    good luck
    PS my box was leaking real bad, just all of a sudden, and it is the original 72 box so I decided to retire it from service...

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
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