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Powertrax no-slip

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by MA87K5, Oct 20, 2002.

  1. MA87K5

    MA87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I'll be putting a powertrax no slip in the front diff. (Got it for a real good price in new condition.) The question I have is which one is better between the powertrax no slip and the detroit ez locker. I plan on putting the detroit ez locker in the rear. I know that posi front and rear will give me outstanding traction offroad in 4 wheel and very good 2 wheel traction on road. I don't have a worry with my rear tires breaking loose because I know how my truck acts and what it can do, I try not to go beyond that.
     
  2. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    EZ-locker is junk. Buy a Powertrax Lock-Right. It's the same price and a lot stronger. I'm planning on getting one.

    Do a search and you'll see what I mean.
     
  3. MA87K5

    MA87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I would but the lock right is not recommended for a daily driver. The no slip is $430, And the ez locker is $250. I was told that the ez can handle up to 1100 HP. Why is the ez locker junk? Thanks
     
  4. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    Not reccomended for a Daily Driver, unless you keep the front hubs locked and the transfer case in 4wd, or you have a full time 4wd setup, the lock right will do just fine. Keith and I both had Lockrights in our fronts for 3 or 4 years with NO problems and we both drove them every day. Keith had a lock right in his rear as well. At 450 for the No slip, your getting within 50 bucks of a full Detroit locker.

    Depdog
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    I would but the lock right is not recommended for a daily driver. The no slip is $430, And the ez locker is $250. I was told that the ez can handle up to 1100 HP. Why is the ez locker junk? Thanks

    [/ QUOTE ]
    You were lied too. EVERY EZ I have ever seen installed in the rear has blown PERIOD. One of them was on BigJbears 80 with a VERY tired engine. Robzilla lunched two and the second one he blew within a mile after he installed. His truck has a stock 350 crate that I'm sure is about 800hp short of 1100.
    The EZ paper work clearly states do not use with over 32 inch tires. Hmmmmmm can't handle 33's and a stock engine and you expect it to handle 1100hp?
    Save your money. Lockright or a power track is a much better product. Personnaly I would not install a lunch box locker in the rear of anything. Go with a full Detroit if you want a locker. I can guarantee less potential for problems. Those lunch box lockers put a lot of stress on the carrier and can break them.
    ALL full lockers come with that "not for daily driver" because they adversley effect the handling on the street and in particular they can be a real handfull on ice. The manufactures are just protecting themselves from lawsuits because some idiot didn't adjust their driving style and totals their truck.
     
  6. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    The Detroit E-Z Locker breaks. The only thing it's ever been recommended for around here is the front axle of a Jeep. And a kid broke his with a 2.5L on 31x10.50s. There are a couple guys that have the old style E-Z Locker that swear by them. But these are also at least five years old from what I've been told (these guys are in their late twenties and are working on their doctorates so they've been in the club for a while).

    You can get a Lock-Right for $240 for a ten bolt. It's on my wishlist for my front ten bolt.
    http://nationaldrivetrain.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/page8.html

    Since you couldn't be bothered to do a simple search, I did. It's proof that the E-Z Locker isn't much, if any, better than a Gov-Lock.

    http://coloradok5.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&amp;Board=blazer4x4&amp;Number=494876&amp;Forum=blazer4x4&amp;Words=lock%20right%20locker&amp;Match=And&amp;Searchpage=0&amp;Limit=25&amp;Old=allposts&amp;Main=403037&amp;Search=true#Post494876
     
  7. MA87K5

    MA87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Ok Ez lockers suck. How about the Eaton posi for the rear? Will I have to worry about the powertrax no-slip if I put it in the front? Thank you for all the info everyone has givin me. I shall stay away from the ez locker.
     
  8. bajaviking

    bajaviking 1/2 ton status

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    I have had a lock-right in my rear 10 bolt for 6 months now and I have towed a blazer on a 2 axle trailer with it, played in the dunes and also done some regular wheeling(no rocks though) plus this is my daily driver and it is doing fine. When I have a little more money I will put a welded 14Bolt in the rear of my truck , take the lock-right out of the rear 10 bolt and put in the front.
     
  9. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    Any clutch-type limited slip will work. Just don't get the cone-type.

    I'd stick the no-slip in the back and put a lock-right in the front. But that's just me.

    My 14FF has a grenade-lock in it and I'll either run that or weld it. I'm no fan of anything but spools, clutch type limted slips, or open differentials in the back. I don't like lockers in the back because they can be unpredictable. I'm sure I'd be alright if I just got used to it.. but anyway.
     
  10. XHitman396

    XHitman396 1/2 ton status

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    i was thinkin of putin that exact setup with the no slip rear and lock-rite front, anyone had in on 2 10 bolts with 35s?
     
  11. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    What Grim said. BTW the 350 in an '80 Jimmy was rated @ 160 HP when it was NEW. Add 20 yrs &amp; guess about the power output (I can spin the flex plate by hand, plugs in, no gloves on), so 1100 HP my ass. The EZ worked when I had 31s but only 1 &amp; 1/2 trips w/ 35s. And do a search!
     
  12. MA87K5

    MA87K5 1/2 ton status

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    The 1100hp was what someone told me that the ez locker could handle not the what the engine has. Does anyone have or is familiar with the Eaton posi unit durability? Thanks
     
  13. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Exactly, I was saying the EZ couldn't hold up to the power my '80 put out so there is no way it would last behind a motor that made 1100HP. Sorry for the confusion.
     
  14. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    Does anyone have or is familiar with the Eaton posi unit durability? Thanks

    [/ QUOTE ]
    i had one in my 12bolt with 33's an old tired 350 and a sm465 and was wheeling in the sand and blew mine apart put 8 holes through the diff cover /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
     
  15. MA87K5

    MA87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Well I blew the powertrax no slip the second time I locked the hubs. I didn't even drive on dry pavement. Just snow. Oh well back to the open diff. I thought that the powertrax was a good replacement for the spider and shaft gears but if I broke them without hard wheeling than they must not be very good. I'm glad I didn't pay alot for it. Time for a eaton up front also. Still have no probs with the eaton out back. I'm afraid to look in the carrier for the powertrax to see how bad it is. Maybe this weekend.
     
  16. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    I'v been running a power trax lock rite in the rear for a few years now with no problems. It is a fairly strong unit. My K5 is a dayly driver,tow rig and I wheel it hard. Mud, Rocks Sand and Snow no problem.
    The one thing i have found with them on the ones I have used and helped buddys install is. You should use new thrust washers when you install them. Also if the pinion pin is even a little bit worn replace it also. (The instructions recomend this but most people ignore it.)
    A lot of perple just throw them in an old loose worn out 10 bolt, And blame the locker when they blow . The lockrites were designed to work in close tolerances. An old loose rear end will blow them in a hurry.
    Also they work better and quiter with high quality 90- 140 wt gear oil.
     
  17. twenty_below0

    twenty_below0 1/2 ton status

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    If you want a TRUE LOCKER with STRENGTH in the rear go with a Spool or a Detroit, Then use the Posi or LOCK-RIGHT in the front this will give you the best dependable traction all the way around! End of Story! just my little opinion /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  18. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    A spool is not the same as a locker. "Locker" doesn't just mean that the axleshafts are always locked together. In order to be a locker, it must allow a shaft to disconnect for turning.
     
  19. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    The powertrax no slip or no spin I can't remember what the name is, isn't the greatest unit out there.
    The powertrax lock rite like the one I use and some here that gave their opinion is different and much stronger. It's cheap, easy to install, and much stronger than the EZ locker made by detroit and basically the same design.
    I agree a detroit locker is better but the lock rite is great for the price and ease of install.
    The no slip I will never even try because of all the bad feedback I got about it.
    Sorry you had to try it /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  20. twenty_below0

    twenty_below0 1/2 ton status

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    YEAH your right a Spool is not a locker (I should have put Detroit in front of Spool on my other post) that's why I said the best all around traction. For the cash a spool is a great traction additive, much cheaper than a 450.00 Detroit but it's a little harder on the tires. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     

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