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Pre amp output to amp wires

Discussion in 'Audio' started by cybrfire, Sep 11, 2005.

  1. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Just about to head to the shop and wanted to pick up some wiring for the crewcab project. What type wires are generally used for preamp to amp. If memory serves they are AV type jacks.

    Am I remembering this correctly??

    So, I will need a ground, power and Pair AV cables for the amp?? Anything else?

    Want to drop in the carpet today so I'd like to pick up the appropriate wiring on my way there.
     
  2. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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  3. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Thanks!
     
  4. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Also a remote on/off wire from the sounds of it. Damn, I'm dumb about this stuff...
     
  5. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I usely put the remote/turn on wire on a switch (For the sub(s)). Kind of nice too be able too kill the bass real quick if needed.
     
  6. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Well, got the wiring all loomed up and routed and the carpet down. NO preamp outputs on the alpine cd deck I have. Guess I'll be shopping again...
     
  7. mikey_d05

    mikey_d05 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    If you're in the market for a deck you might wanna consider Rockford as well. I don't normally wire my remote wire with an interrupt because the rest of my system is pretty matched to what the subwoofer will do, so if I'm blasting it and drive by an LEO, I'm screwed either way. Oh yeah, don't even think about running the speaker level output to preamp output convertors, just trust me on that one.
     
  8. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    I didn't mind coming up with an excuse to buy a new deck so its all good. Been reading quite a bit on this forum. Feeling a little lacking in this dept. Every truck I've ever owned had some cobbled up junk in the dash. Usually just yank it out and leave em out.
     
  9. mikey_d05

    mikey_d05 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    It's not that hard really. If you can wire a set of lights you have the capacity to understand audio. I used to run a pretty big setup in my DD but hearing loss isn't cool. Just apply the same standards of quality to your audio setup as you do to your fabrication and you'll be fine. The deck and everything in my trail truck was so messed up I just cut the wires and left it there. I'd really like to have some sort of audio in there though so I think I'll pick up a cheap deck that can get drowned and make some fiberglass pods to sit on the dash. Oh well, this is now officially a hijack so I'll stop. If you've got any questions, Z3 seems to be more than knowledgable and I know a thing or two as well.
     
  10. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    I think its mostly the terminology that I don't have. Band pass, bridgeable, and the whatever!! I'll figure it out as I go. Still, not building a system that will blow anybody away. Just want some decent sound.

    So far the system will have four door speakers and a 10" sub. I think I'll build an alumium reinforced box for the sub. Feel like giving the tig welder a work out so what the heck. I have chunk of aluminum just dying to do something with its life. :wink1:
     
  11. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Ebay is your friend.(I usely buy "New In Box" speakers, but will buy used amps.) Lots of deals too be had on Ebay. Head units (the stereo itself) I look for head units with 3 sets of pre-amp outs. That gives you your fronts, rears, and a non fading set for your sub(s). Amps - Subwoofer a Class D mono block is always good too power your sub(s). I like too get a amp with a higher RMS power rating then the sub, you can always turn the gain down so you don't blow thw sub(s). My MMATS is rated at 1400watts at 1 ohm RMS. My Kicker L7 is rated at 750watts RMS. It is wired at 1 ohm. My gain is set at just over 1/4. Amp for the 4 main speakers. Again, I like a amp the can put out more watts then the speakers are rated for because it's easy too turn the gain down. I prefer not too drive a amp too it's max anyways. Destortion is what destroys speakers. Speakers - I'm a big fan of the Infinity Kappa's. I just installed a set of Infinity Kappa 4X6 plate speakers in the doors of the daily driver. It's a night and day difference. The highs are increadable and the mids are extreamly clear. Sounds sooo much better then the craptory speakers. This is not a competetion system by any means, but it sure does sound better then what the factory put in the car. I do recomend a good alarm if you're going too invest in your sound system.
     
  12. mikey_d05

    mikey_d05 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Holy crap man, I wasn't gonna drown him with details but since you opened it up....

    My old setup was a Digital Designs DD9515 (before that I had two of 'em) hooked up to a Zapco 9.0XD which was modded to be semi-stable at 1 ohm. Not an SQ setup but it was so loud it didn't matter. Then I had a crappy US Acoustics amp rated at 75x4 max hooked to 2 4x10 memphis power references and two 4" round memphis'.

    I went from that to a more SQ friendly setup since I lost hearing and it sounded like hell. Now I run a Rockford head unit with a decent set of amp pre-outs. A memphis 3004, one side hooked up to a pair of Vifa tweeters, the other hooked to a set of Digital Designs 6.5" midbass speakers. The head unit is driving a crossover hooked to a set of image dynamics tweeters, and 4" midranges (home audio stuff) and in back there are still the crappy Memphis 4x10's. For bass now I run a Memphis 1000D run at 1 ohm hooked to a Memphis 10" sub (forgot what series and I'm too lazy to look it up) It's way better for SQ than the previous setup. I ran a hi-po alternator until it spun a bearing and ridiculous size power wire for everything, shielded RCA's, the works. Anyways, I have a lot of memphis stuff in my system because a friend used to compete with their stuff so I got a lot of it barely used for really cheap. Sorry about the full spec list, I just felt jealous that Z3 posted up his stuff. :D
     
  13. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Memphis is very good stuff. I tend too shy away from Rockford Fosbreak because in my opinion, you pay more for the name then anything else. Head units, I recently replaced my JVC KD-LX50 with a Clarion DXZ945MP. [​IMG] I went with the Clarion DXZ945MP because of the features at a price I was willing too spend. Added the Clarion SIRCL2 for SIRIUS SATELLITE RADIO. It's nice not too have a extra unit on the dash, it's all controled by the head unit. Have had the MMATS D200hc (Class D mono amp) for a while. Got a heck of a deal on a single 12" Kicker L7 DVC sub, still want a pair of TREO Engineering 12's though. Want the SSI's Have the Infinity Kappa 462.7cfp in the doors of the [​IMG] and soon will have Infinity Kappa 693.7i in the rear deck. Still shopping around for a 4 channel amp. I've bid on a Clarion APA4203 , but it's a low bid so I wouldn't be suprised if I get out bid. If I have too buy new, I'm leaning tords the Hifonics ZX6400 . Would love too find a MMATS SQ4070, but there are hard too find at a price I can afford.
     
  14. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    Cyber..... shoot me an email. I have been in the audio business for over 12 years. And would LOVE to work some trades with you. I already have the flip and switch but need tons more of your stuff. So you can do what you do best and I can take care of your audio end.

    Be careful on the ebay. No warranty and I have heard tons of horror stories of stolen, not working, etc. etc. I get used stuff in our shop all the time bought from ebay that isn't up to par. Most major manufactures will not allow a licensed retailer to sell on ebay so you void the warranty by doing it. I know none of mine will allow us and I sell most of the "major" name brands.
     

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