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Proper way to lincoln lock a 14 bolt??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by sled_dog, Dec 1, 2003.

  1. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Ok since it is looking more and more like the K5 will never or rarely see pavement I don't see a need to spend money on a locker when I can spend that money on a d60 locker. So whats a good way to lincoln lock a 14 bolt?? I've heard bad things about the way thats in the tech section.
     
  2. denver75k5

    denver75k5 1/2 ton status

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    Tim from 4x4 Iron did mine, he just welded the heck out of all the side gears to the casting but he left the holes open for lubrication, and I have never had a problem with it.
     
  3. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    so he welded to the carrier? I was hoping there was a way to avoid that but 14 bolts are common enough.
     
  4. Fubeca

    Fubeca 1/2 ton status

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    Check out this post for some pointers. Old Post
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I really wish Steve would update or remove that welding article. There are better ways to weld the 14 bolt, and anyone that follows that article to the letter will likely have the same side gear and spider gear cracking I had.

    Rene
     
  6. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Proper way to lincoln lock? PM Kidjethro and have him send you his "jethrolocker". /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  7. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    I ran a welded 14 on my DD for a year. I chewed thru a set of 35" MTR's in 8000 miles. It was awsome offroad. I ran into one problem this summer. I was putting my new 37's on and noticed alot of slop in the diff. I knew it was the welded diff. I went out and bought a detroit the next day and installed it.
    The point of this story starts now: I welded my spiders exactly how the article, posted here a while ago, said to but I used more "stop welds" and closer tolerances. The weld bead is very weak when compared to the gear steel. The gears wore a grove into every weld. I had about a half turn of slop before I took it out. I called my buddy who had the same set up and told him what happened. He said it was flux core wire I used. A week later he split a side gear after someone brought up his half turn of slop. DONT USE STOP WELDS!! they won't work in the ling run. I don't know a better way to do it but I know that stop welds are a bad idea.
    Then again this is my opinion and expierence.
     
  8. benny

    benny Registered Member

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    did mine like this
    [​IMG]
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Home grown mini spool /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. 99firehawk

    99firehawk 1/2 ton status

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    Proper and lincon lock in the same sentence.................
     
  11. denver75k5

    denver75k5 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    so he welded to the carrier?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yup, And I've hammerd on it pretty good since, without a problem /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  12. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Ditto.

    I run the stop weld style and it is wearing. I have 1/4 turn before lockup and it eats tires like a mother. I am going to ditch it when I get the funds for the Detroit. I ran mine mostly on the street though with 32 & 35" tires and it has lasted 1 year so far. About 8K or so I would guess, but 2K of that was driving back and forth to Colorado.

    Harley
     
  13. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    like I said, I'm not worried about tire wear, it will pretty much never see the road. driving through my town will be an adventure with the narrowed front and rear and 39.5s /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  14. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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    Here is my reply from the post Fubeca linked too-

    Don't bother welding it per the tech article. The back lash that this creates will, over the long run, cause cracking and failure of the side and spider gears. I believe tRustyK5 can comment on this. He put alot of miles on a setup done as the tech article, and was not happy with the long term wear. If you're gonna weld it, I think the consenus is that welding the side gears, spiders, and cross shaft all into one piece is the best idea. I have done 10+ of these for club members and even sold a couple on another BB. So if you have any questions, I'm your man. Here's a few pictures and a bit of an explanation..

    Remove the axle shafts first...Ask me how many times I've done this and forgot to remove the axle shafts, and then couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the carrier out.. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    After you get the cover off the housing and you're lookin at the carrier and ring gear, you'll see two small bolts, one on either side of the carrier. These two bolts hold the clips in place, which in turn lock the side bearing adjusting nuts in place. These are the large round pieces with many small holes around thier circumference, just outboard from the carrier bearing races. What I do is take a scribe and mark the two holes that the prongs on the clips sit in on the adjusting nut. I also scribe a third mark between the two holes on the adjusting nut and onto the housing. Remove the carrier bearing cap bolts, don't bother with removing the two small bolts and the clips. Set them aside in the same orientation that they came off. Leaving the clips and bolts in the bearing cap helps with making sure that you get them back on in the same orientation they came off. No it's time to loosen the adjusting nut's. One turns clockwise, the other turns counter clockwise. What I do is loosen each nut exactly 1 rotation. Lining up the scribe mark on the nut's and the scribe mark on housing after one rotation. Check to see if the carrier will come out now. If it won't, loosen each nut 1 more turn. Check again. Repeat till the carrier will come out. Remember how many rotations you loosened the nuts, so you'll know how many rotations to tighten them when you put it back together. If you loosen it 2 turns, tighten it two turns, and make sure the two prongs on the clip go back into the holes on the adjusting nut that you marked ealier. Pull carrier out, make sure that the carrier bearing races don't fall out and take off accross the shop floor and hide under the tool box... /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif Set carrier on bench and remove all the ring gear bolts. Tap ring gear off of carrier with brass punch and hammer. Split carrier apart.

    This is what you will see after removing the ring gear and splitting the carrier halves apart...
    [​IMG]

    First thing you need to do is take the top side gear off, and tack the spider gears to the cross shaft where the welds are in this picture..Don't forget to flip it over and tack the other side as well. Make sure that the little cup shaped washers that sit betwee the spiders and the carrier remain there while you tack things. I have yet to pull a 14b carrier apart where all 4 of those washers were in good shape. Everyone has had atleast 1 cracked washer. Luckily I had spares. After you get it all tacked, put some welds appx. 1" long in the same places as the tacks. Just like the picture below. [​IMG]

    Now put the side gear back on top of the spiders, making sure that it meshs correctly with the spiders and is seated all the way down. Tack every place where the side gears meet the spiders. Remove the gear cluster thingy from the carrier half, flip it over, and set the side you just tacked back into the carrier. There are also large flat washers behind the side gears, make sure those stay in place as well. Repeat the same process with the other side gear. When you have everything tacked together, pull the "gear ball" out of the carrier and weld every place the spiders meet the side gears..Like these pictures...(In the background of the first picture, you can see the cup shaped washers that go behind the spiders, and the large flat washers that fit behind the side gears.)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    With 24 seperate welds holding it together, it won't come apart. Pretty much a mini spool for a 14b. I'm 99.9% sure that welded in this manner, It WILL NOT break. The entire carrier would have to explode for that to happen. If you don't like it after you weld it, you can either pull the gear ball out and replace it with a Detriot, or another set of spiders, side gears and cross shaft. No damage to the carrier at all. After you finish, be sure that you clean off all the boogers you can. They like to hang out on the splines in the side gears. A bladed screw driver and a small hammer work well to knock them off. Put everything back together. Don't freak out if the axle shafts dont slide in as loose as they pulled out. Almost everyone I've done I've had to tap thje axle shafts in with a hammer. Key word is tap. If you have to seriously hammer on it, something is wrong. Alot of heat went into welding things together, heat cause's expanding and contracting, thats why it could be a tight fit.

    Damn....This pretty much turned into a write-up on how to weld a 14b. haha! Hope that it helps. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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