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Pulling 10b front axle shaft

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by stock93, May 10, 2004.

  1. stock93

    stock93 Registered Member

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    I need to pull the front axle shaft the replace a badly leaking seal. I have the hub off and the backing plate pulled off. The chiltons I have shows tapping the spindle that the axle actually rides in off the steering knuckle to pull out the axle shaft. I have tapped it pretty good and it hasnt come loose. Does this come apart on a 10 bolt or do I have to take the steering knuckle w/balljoints off to get the axle shaft out?

    John
     
  2. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    I haven't changed seals, but have had it down to the spindles, and my bro just pulled his axles last week in my garage. After it is down to the spindles, you have to remove the nuts holding the spindle on, then tap on it with soft mallet or hammer and wood , then it should come off. After that pull the axle, no c-clips up front either. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  3. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    You need to tap harder. Just be careful not to booger up the threads on the spindle. They can be a pain to get off, but use a chunk of wood or a dead blow and some muscle.

    Harley
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Put a 4x4 block in between your sledge hammer and the spindle and smack it a few times, it'll come off.

    You could also use a spindle remover and slide hammer, but I never have bothered.
     
  5. namkrow

    namkrow 1/2 ton status

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    If you've removed the bolts, the a tap tap TAPPPPP! oughta do it.
    Use a piece of wood between your hammer and spindle to avoid boogering it up.
    -T
     
  6. stock93

    stock93 Registered Member

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    Ok guys, I knocked the 6 studs that bolt the backing plate on out of the spindle. Is there anything else holding it to the steering knuckle? I'm hitting it with a 16lb sledge and a block of 4x4 wood and it hasnt budged at all. To make sure I'm understanding correctly the part that the axle goes through seperates from the part that has the ball joints in it as well as the steering arm where the tie rod hooks up. Right?

    John
     
  7. stock93

    stock93 Registered Member

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    SOB!!! I started working on the passanger side and the new timken wheel bearing is busted, the axle nut lock ring is broken, and the spindle is trashed. All the bearings need to be replaced. The brakes need gone through. The ball joints have some slop in them. I got to looking at the other spindle and two of the threads had somehow gotten flattened and I still havent been able to get it off with my 16 lb sledge.

    I also have 3.73 gears. I was hoping for 4.56s so I could go ahead and swap in my 14 ff asap. I'm kinda thinking its time to abandon this axle and go ahead and find a dana 60.

    John
     
  8. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Look closely at the rear edge of the knuckle, behind the spindle. There's a small half-moon cutout where you can really whack the backside of the spindle with a hammer and punch. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Bummer about the wasted bearings. It sounds like the outer lock nut wasn't tightened down enough when the new bearings were installed. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  9. stock93

    stock93 Registered Member

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    I put the bearings in about a month ago. They were torqued to spec per chiltons shop manual. I already tried the cutout in the knuckle. I'll try some penetrating oil and then a bit of heat.

    John
     
  10. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    They were torqued to spec per chiltons shop manual.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    For what year? The spec for the older manual locking hub axles was somewhere around 50 ft/lbs. But the spec for the later auto-locking hub axles is around 150 ft/lbs. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif Quite a big difference!
     
  11. stock93

    stock93 Registered Member

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    Its an 83 K10 with autohubs. The chiltons lists it at 50 ft/lbs.

    John
     
  12. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    I'll scan the page if you want , but after you do the bearings and tighten the inner nut and back it off, you tighten outer locknut to 160-205 ft lbs. I did mine to 150 as thats as much as my torque wrench goes, or you can just go as tight as you can I'm sure ( most guys don't check torque ). /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  13. namkrow

    namkrow 1/2 ton status

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    Don't heat the spindle...you'll never get it out when it's hot.

    (personal "Bad" experience)
    -T
     
  14. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Its an 83 K10 with autohubs. The chiltons lists it at 50 ft/lbs.

    John

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Ugh! The Chilton's manual is wrong. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif If you look at the way the auto-hubs install, there are some tangs that fit into the notches on the outer lock nut. They will loosen the lock nut if it's only tightened to 50 ft/lbs. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  15. stock93

    stock93 Registered Member

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    Well, I guess that would be one of my problems. Hrm...looks like this chiltons book would burn pretty easy /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif

    I think I'm going to see if I can just find a dana 60 instead of dumping a bunch of money into this axle since I need to regear to match the new 14 bff.

    John
     
  16. Jonny-K5

    Jonny-K5 1/2 ton status

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    the way i got mine off was to use a big flathead screwdriver or chisel and go around the base of the spindle to seperate. worked like a dream. if your trying to replace the inner seal on the axle itself, you've got alot more work ahead of you. in order to remove the seal( the one that holds the gear oil in) it must be driven out towards the pumpkin. that means removal of the diff. you also need to purchase or make your own tools to pound the seals in and out. good luck
     
  17. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    I never use a torque wrench on them, i just tighten them up while turning the rotor till they (feel) nice, i guess that comes from experience though, not school books. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

    Never had a problem with them, on any vehicle i have worked on. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     

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