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Pulling hard when braking

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 90K5, Sep 3, 2001.

  1. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Whenever I brake, truck pulls hard to the right...I think its really possible that the tires are the problem. Is that possible? On the left front, the tire is worn pretty bad on the outside, but inside is OK, had an alignment problem I think I got fixed and the right front has one that is mostly worn from over inflation, still has some tread left on the edges though. I am probably getting mew tires this week, but I want to know if I need more work done, I don't want to wear the new ones out prematurley. Obviously, I need to make sure they have good air pressure when i get new ones though. Anyway, any ideas wha tmakes it pull to the right so violently? TIA

    90K5
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    A seized caliper can do that...

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  3. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    how do I unseize it?

    90K5
     
  4. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Man why is it always the right side???!??!!!! It seems there have been alot of posts about the truck pulling to the RIGHT when braking. Mine has done it for quite a while also! The old caliper was sticking, so I replaced it and it still does it. I was also told that the rubber lines collapse and can cause the pulling to one side, but I have Pro Comp steelbraided lines, can they still collapse?? Also there is brake dust forms ALOT faster on the right wheel than does the left...
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Well another possibilty is siezed adjuster on the rear brakes. If the left side is seized then the left rear will eventually not provide any braking. Drums come off easy, it might be worth a look.
    As for calipers, the caliper bolts may just be sticky or rusted a bit. You could try removing them and cleaning them up with some emery cloth and give em a light coat of anti-seize then put em back in.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  6. K5Junkie

    K5Junkie 1/2 ton status

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  7. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    I just remembered Midas did a bunch of brake work on this thing about a year ago, it may still have a warranty. The receipt says 9/12/00...anyone know how long they warranty their work for? Can't find the warranty card...

    90K5
     
  8. 1986Blazer

    1986Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Screw with the predictions. NAPA has front calipers (rebuilt) for less than $60 each and the rear break cylinders are less than $15 each. My moto is replace everything when is seems reasonable and if the K5 was bought used than replace items as they need it. I just bought new tranny lines from a company just because they needed replacement after 300,000+ miles. If you have the cash, replace the proportioning valve also. I can not hurt!

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html>http://www.geocities.com/keywestk5/KeyWestK5.html</a>
    So I says to him, I said, "get your own monkey."
    1986 K5, 350 GM Crate, 700R4, NP208
     
  9. RGF

    RGF 1/2 ton status

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    You may want to look at the left caliper/hose, your right side is working but maybe the left is not getting equal pressure from a plugged hose or caliper piston thats binding.I spent way to much time looking at the side that it was pulling to in the past only to find it was the other!
    RGF
     
  10. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Everyone here has had this problem at one point in time it looks like. I agree with replacing stuff too when it seems fit. But I ALWAYS start with the simple stuff first. "KISS"
    Keep it simple stupid usually works for me. Bleeding is the cheapest thing to do.
    Last encounter with my pulling brakes was curred from a good solid bleed job. And I mean a good one. Take your time and do all 4 wheels and do it right. Do it until you cycle out all the old brake fluid. This may help you tremendously.
    Alot of times you'll get a small piece of trash or an air bubble in the line that will cause this.
    If that doesn't work then start looking at replacing things.
    But my next guess would be to pull the pads off and have a look at the pads and the bolts that hold the caliper to the backing plate adn like Rene said just clean the race area of the bolt up adn put some grease on it so it can apply and release correctly.

    tRustyk5 for President!!![​IMG]
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  11. tlarsw

    tlarsw 1/2 ton status

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    How much lift are you guys running? Are you still running the stock steering? Front to rear small DS draglink?

    I'm running soft 6" springs and had the same problem until I went to crossover. It's possible that you're seeing effects of bumpsteer.

    Try braking with your hands loosly on the wheel. Allow the wheel to turn in your hands as you brake. See if the problem is the same.

    If not, this would be due to bumpsteer.

    1986 K10 TPI350/NV4500/Gen2 Doubler/D60(ARB)/14FF(Detroit)/4.56 gears
     
  12. Angus80K5

    Angus80K5 Newbie

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    Same thing happened to me on my 80 K5 blazer. First the right side pull, and 4 months later left side pull. Cause is a bit of the lining of the flexible brake line is acting as a one way valve. CURE-- replace both front brake flexible lines, and, of course, bleed the brakes.
     
  13. ironmikek5

    ironmikek5 1/2 ton status

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    My 83 jerked so hard to the right it was almost possible to do an instant U-turn.

    The previous owner had done a 50% brake job, replaced one caliper and pads, left the driver side pads under the back seat. threw the pads on, stops as good as new.

    <font color=red>"Oil? That's not my oil...that was there before" </font color=red>[​IMG]
     
  14. DuneRunner

    DuneRunner 1/2 ton status

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    Lift the front tires and put them on Jack stands.
    If the Pass. side tire is loose (wiggle it up and down)
    then it is the nuts that hold the caliper on. It happend to me a while ago. You need to take your hub off and go in and tighten the nuts. With the special 4 notch socket. Good Luck.
    KEN

    DANGIT it's not a bronco!
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    KISS is a good one. Bleed the brakes. Changing fluid can't hurt. Be prepared to replace the Master cylinder though, as bleeding allows more pedal travel than normal, resulting in damaged MC seals. May or may not fail on you, mine did.

    As well, both of my rotors (one worse than the other) were "glazed" and pitted by something. Cleaning them up smooth with sandpaper fixed the pulling to one side, but I replaced pads at the same time. Contaminated pads are a no-go.

    If pulling pads, or looking at them, you will likely have to compress the caliper piston anyways..that SHOULD free it up if it is sticky.

    More often than not, seemingly mysterious brake problems are caused by pretty normal things overlooked.

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  16. Nonesuch

    Nonesuch 1/2 ton status

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    something else to check is the bushings and bolts of the front suspension. on my old 79 the front end was so worn out that it would pull to the right sometimse and to the left on others. it was a scary ride until i got it fixed.
    Justin
     

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