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pulling ring gear out the front

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Todd78/87, Mar 1, 2000.

  1. Todd78/87

    Todd78/87 1/2 ton status

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    Do I have to drop the front drive line to take off the nut on the pinoin? Or once I take the bearring caps off,, just pull it out?
    Thanks

    Todd<font color=purple>78/87</font color=purple>
    [​IMG]
     
  2. cocky

    cocky Registered Member

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    yes you do have to drop the driveline to take the nut off and then the pinion will come out the front
     
  3. Texan

    Texan 1/2 ton status

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    Both. Pinion comes out (and goes in) from inside the housing (carrier has to come out first) and is secured with a big a$$ nut on the outside which requires dropping the axle and u-joint to get at. That nut is probably torqued in the neighborhood of 150-200 lb. ft. so you'll need either a breaker and extension or a real good impact wrench....

    Hope That Helps?,

    <font color=orange>STEVE<font color=orange>[​IMG]
    89 Blazer
    67 Camaro 468
    68 CamaroSS 327
    98 GTP
     
  4. Todd78/87

    Todd78/87 1/2 ton status

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    Re: pulling ring gear out the front MORE HELP

    Ok,, both my books just show doing the rear where apparantly the seals are on the outter part of the axle tubes so there is no need to take that nut off. I don't have to take out the pinion in the front if all I'm wanting is to take the carrier out to get at the axle seals, do I? If not, do I still have to take that nut off?


    Todd<font color=purple>78/87</font color=purple>
    [​IMG]
     
  5. wnderbra

    wnderbra Registered Member

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    Re: pulling ring gear out the front MORE HELP

    I just replaced seals on my cousins jimmy today depending on the carrier you have all you have to do is rotate the carrier until you see the lock screw that holds the center pin that runs thru the carrier then remove it this lets the axles slide inward and then the c-clips (one on each side) should just fall out then remove the axles It's best to leave the carrier in if you are just changing the outer axle seals I not an expert but this should get you there
     
  6. Todd78/87

    Todd78/87 1/2 ton status

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    Re: pulling ring gear out the front MORE HELP

    That's on the rear, right? The front is different. There are no C clips and there are no outter seals,, only the inner ones accessable only through the differential. That's why I'm trying to remove the carrier.
    But on your note,, on the front, do I just have to pull the center pin and the berring caps and pull the carrier out? I don't have to drop the drive line and remove that big nut? Will the gears that the center pin runs through fall out? It kinda looks like I have to take them out before the carrier will come out.

    Todd<font color=purple>78/87</font color=purple>
    [​IMG]
     
  7. wnderbra

    wnderbra Registered Member

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    Re: pulling ring gear out the front MORE HELP

    OK now i'm learning too I knew they we're different but I thought they we're close I do know that you do'nt have to pull the driveshaft loose unless you have to pull(or replace)the pinion gear which meshes with the ring gear(attached to the carrier) but is not attached(i.e. needs to be removed) Hope this help too bad the computer does'nt have a remote feed camera the you could set up in the garage
     
  8. Boggin' Blazer

    Boggin' Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Re: pulling ring gear out the front MORE HELP

    Todd
    yes all you need to do is remove the bearing caps and pull the carrier out. you may have to do a little prying to get her out.
    You done need to mess with the pinion
    David

    Drive It Like You Stole It !!!![​IMG]
     
  9. Rich84

    Rich84 Registered Member

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    I might be off the path a bit here, but I wouldn't mess with the carrier at all. On the front, the axles slide right out after you take the spindle off (at least according to Haynes). I wouldn't even pull the diff cover. Once you get the axles out, I don't know if the bearing are pressed on or not. Don't get upset for me asking the obvious, but are you sure your problem isn't in the wheel bearings?

    Oh, sorry about that, I didn't know you were talking about the carrier bearings. Grim, you are the man. I agree, you should put out a manual.
     
  10. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: DON\"T TOUCH THE PINION!!!

    To replace the inner axle seal you just need to pull the carrier. there is actully a tool called a case spreader. 99% of the time you don't need it. The fit is TIGHT! but it will come out. Take a pry bar and a thin chunk of wood. Use the wood to protect the surface area around the diff housing and pry against the ribs on the backs side of the carrier. DO NOT PRY ON THE RING GEAR! you could slip and scrape the teeth. Now if you have a 10 bolt front you need to be very carefull not to loose the shims. On a 10 bolt the shims are between the bearing caps and the housing. On a D44 the shims are under the breaings so no problem. Be very carefull about these. the count and side they come from is very important. if not installed the way they come out you will munch the ring and pinion. once it pops loose make sure you don't drop it... that hunk of metal is heavier than you think Infact to besure you dont drop it put the caps back on with about 3 threads on the bolts. Now once you get the carrier out of the way pay close attention to the seals and how far in the tube they are pressed. you may want to take something and put a mark on it as a refferance mark so you can have a gage. you can press them in to far. note that the flared end is in the tube not the carrier. Now take a broom handle and knock them into the carrier. You will have to clean alot of crud out of the tubes. I find a stick long enough to go completly end to end on the axle. I insert it in one end and when the tip is in the pumpkin I wrap a shop rag over the end and then run it through to the other side so the dirt lands on the floor not in the housing. Now you will get a bunch of dirt and crap inside the housing regardless. Get a couple of cans of brake clean and put a pan down to catch the crud and use the brake clean to hose out the carrier and sealing surfaces. Now take your seals out of the box. look very carfully for the 'MADE IN USA" stamp ON the seal itself. if it says anything other than that like "China" start thinking about how much fun you just had. When you come to the conclusion you really don't want to do this again in 6 months take those POS China Seals back and go to NAPA and get the ones that say USA. LOOK before you walk out of the store...even Dana is starting to hose us and package cheap china seals in Napa/ Dana packaging.
    Your already back for the parts store...good hehehe.
    Now the real trick is getting them boogers started. take your time. I don't trust the rubbery stuff already applied to the outside ring of the seal (Green or Red) to seal the outside. I don't like doing things twice and I always put some RTV around the sealing area in the tube just to be sure. Now if you have some wear on the shaft you can elect not to press them in quite as far as they were to get the seal riding on a little less worn area. you got about 1/8 inch of fudge factor with how far you press the seals. Make sure they seat square to the tube. You can get them in crooked. Once these are in your ready for reasemebly. Now here is a tip. I like to go ahead and get the shafts started back in before I put the carrier back in. This gives me peace of mind because I can see that all the effort I went to to keep the end of the shaft from hiting that little bit of crud still in the tube and pushing it into the the carrier. This way I can see the end is clean. now slide them in but not all the way so you can get the carrier back in. Now comes the point when you find out how carfull the last guy who pulled the shafts out was about not getting dirt on the end of the shaft. Pull the outer races off the carrier bearing and inspect them for damage. If the shafts were ever out and were dirty when they went back in all that dirt gets run right into the bearrings.
    Now your either crying or going thank god! If your crying then sombody got a shovel full of dirt into the bearings and they are pitted and tore up. It's not the end of the world. Haul the carrier and your boogered bearrings down to the machine shop. and get new bearings (yes as in plural) pressed on. Even if only one bearing is damage your going to replace both. Here is why. Bearings are made to pretty close tolerances. The ones on the your carrier came out of the same box. Make sure your new ones do also to keep any small differenced in dimension to the bare minimum. Get them pressed on. Before you leave the machine shop get a can of thick lithium WHITE grease.
    Ok now the fun. time to get the carrier and shims back in the housing. It needs to go in square to the case.and the shims need to go in at the same time so it's time to grow and extra pair of hands to hold all the parts. This is a get the right combinations of cuss words and tounge touching your left ear part. Now if you got a rubber mallet tap the races gently and try and get them started. If no rubber malet get a block of wood and wrap a clean shop towel around it so that if the wood spliters or had dirt on it from the foor that it doesn't get in the diff and use it to protect the bearings from the hammer. Be very carefull and only use the bare minimm to get it started. Now if you noticed those bolts that held the caps on are long!...once you can get about 5 thread started into the case you can use the caps and bolts to pull the carrier the rest of the way into the case. Be sure to torq them to the spec in your shop manual. Now the reason you got the white grease is so you can check the wear pattern on the teeth. dab the grease on about a 3rd of the teeth front and back. Rotate the pinion to get the ring to do a 180 then go the oposite direction 180. Now since these are well broken in gears you will see a shinny area on the teeth that you didn't put the grease on ,make sure that the pattern in the white grease looks to have the main contact patch in the same location. If it looks good then your all set and can put it the rest of the way together.
    FYI the torq spec listed in the Haynes manual for the spindle to the knuckle is WRONG. it lists 25ftlb....it should be 45ftlb.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
     
  11. Brian 89KBlazer

    Brian 89KBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    Re: DON\"T TOUCH THE PINION!!!

    I sit in AWE!!! You even make what I consider the most delicate operation on a Blazer seem simple. Grim, you are truly the master! Make no wonder the others think the same.

    Also, thanks for the catch phrase from an earlier post!

    Brian
    Still in search of the TBI KING!!
     
  12. Todd78/87

    Todd78/87 1/2 ton status

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    Re: DON\"T TOUCH THE PINION!!!

    Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm goinng to print out your post and slip sheet it right into my books.
    I have already pulled the axles and had new u joints put in them and took a wire brush and gunk remover to the ends. I have replaced the wheel bearrings and races,, only thing left to do is these seals and I can put it all back together.
    THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Todd<font color=purple>78/87</font color=purple>
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: DON\"T TOUCH THE PINION!!!

    Hay I been there done that. Just passing on what I did to correct the problems and hopfully save somebody some hair. My hair is almost gone [​IMG] from beating my head into the wall and ripping it out trying to figure stuff out. I'll probably loose the rest in the next week working on my new project. I just dragged home a 89 Toyota Supra with 47k and a blowm motor. My wife asked me to please buy a drivable vehicle this time...I didn't listen LOL. Body is perfect but the previous owner was a moron. Pulled the radiator hoses and found he had poured about a 1/2 gallon of stop leak in trying to make a blown head gasket seal...all he managed to do was over heat it in crack the head. Looks like I will be getting a crash course in MPI this week LOL. My new motor (well under 50k) just got to Cali from Japan. Just waiting for it to make it to GA.
    Here is a hoot that will make you happy to live in the US. If you blow an engine in Japan you have to buy a NEW engine. they will not let you pull a good motor from a totaled car. You can not do your own car repair. All repairs have to be done by a registered gov mechanic. The Mechanic cannot even work on his own car! Well good for me...I just got an engine with under 50k for $950 and a year warranty LOL. Every yard around here is wanting $1200 for a moter with about 80k.
    I just hope my first day with the car is not an indication of things to come...I high centered it on the trailer!!!! booger sits low...hell the side window is eye level with the rockers on my 75 LOL. That is going to take some getting use to after riding high in the K5's.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
     
  14. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    I\'m impressed

    Grim-Reaper: What do you do for a living? Because I'm sure that if you wrote a new 'Blazer Repair Book by Grim-Reaper' it would outsell both Haynes and Chiltons together! Your explanations are great. I think we should reward you with the 'ColoradoK5 Excellency Award' or something like that. [​IMG]

    <font color=purple>////////
    Go 79s!!!
    </font color=purple>[​IMG]
     
  15. Todd78/87

    Todd78/87 1/2 ton status

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    Re: DON\"T TOUCH THE PINION!!!

    Kick Ass Grim,,,, I had an 87 Turbo,, all the MKIII's blow the head gaskets,,, for lots of good info,, goto
    www.supras.com,,, After fixing the hg on my 87,, I fixed the problem permenatly by selling it and buying a 95 Twin turbo,,,, for $1300.00 in mods,, I'm pushing about 460-470 horsepower. Those motors are AWSOME!!!
    http://home.swbell.net/traff/supra

    Todd<font color=purple>78/87</font color=purple>
    [​IMG]
     

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