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Pulls worse on braking than before ??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 88Silverado, Dec 8, 2003.

  1. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    Well the Blazer use to pull to the right on braking but didnt mess with it cuz I was doing a lift. Now that the lift is done, and I added new springs, new shocks, new extended lines, rebuilt calipers and new pads, it pulls worse to the right than before. Infact, its kinda scarey cuz I know theres no way for a fast "Panic" stop without it severly diving off to the right.

    Any thoughts?
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Did you inspect the front and the back of the rotors when you had it apart?

    When I put my truck together (out of parts that were all questionable) I had a pulling to one side problem. Decided that the calipers and pads should be changed, as the rotors looked good with the wheel on.

    Once I pulled the wheel though, I noticed on the side it pulled to, there was some kind of baked on (or something) garbage, almost looked like blobs of grease that had hardened, all over it. Very hard to see from any distance, but I could feel them. Anyway, took a piece of sandpaper to the rotor, left the calipers there, replaced the pads, and the problem went away, never to return.

    Still no idea what the stuff was that was on the rotor, and knowing the problems I have, probably something no one else has ever seen, nor will ever have to worry about. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  3. justhorsinaround

    justhorsinaround 3/4 ton status

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    You and me both Dorian, but anyway back to the question. I would replace the rotors as well. We had a bad brake prollem on our 94 Sub and once I had replaced the rotors and pads all was well with the world. Anywhos good luck to ya and let us know what was the fix.

    Allan
     
  4. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    Its from the stock style steering. It got worse when you lifted the truck because now the suspension is compressing more causing the draglink to effectively push the steering arm on the axle to the right. My father said when he was the service manager at the local GMC dealer back in the early '80's people would complain about that problem and they would swap spring and do all sorts of things to try and fix it but it would never go away.
     
  5. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    Hummm...interesting /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    I noticed the bumpsteer is worse now, didnt think about it causing more dive as the suspension compressed. I'll have to look at that. I would expect this is a problem for everyone who lifts a truck without going to crossover? I havent seen it mentioned anywhere. I will also look at the rotors as Dorian suggested for problems. I decided to install new pads without turning the rotors (since they were not ridged or scored) and used the Performance Friction Z-rated Carbon Metallic pads (I run these on my 71 Elky and they work well when hot) Maybe the pad's havent shaped to the rotors yet. They only have about 40 miles on them now and not much stopping. Just strange it does it on the same side as before /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif.

    Thanks guys
    Chuck
     
  6. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    i think you need to machine the rotors...its a big no-no to put brand new pads on severely glazed rotors, severely glazed meaning they have more than 100 miles on them of use after having a new surface..machine the rotors, scuff the pads up and reinstall..
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    eh...turning rotors sucks. Just replace them. They're $25 each, which is probably about double the cost of turning them.
     
  8. 99firehawk

    99firehawk 1/2 ton status

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    Replace the rotrs and put a good non directional on the new ones.
     
  9. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    eh...turning rotors sucks. Just replace them. They're $25 each, which is probably about double the cost of turning them.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif I would rather turn my rotors than drive out 12 studs and put em back in. If rotors were ment to replaced each time why do they make em so you can machine em?
     
  10. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    i will machine a set of rotors for anyone here for free...it takes 10 minutes a cut once they're off the vehicle..and hell it only takes 10 minutes to get them off the truck..so give me 45 minutes to an hour, buy me a sandwich and a coke and ill turn them for ya..hows that? or just mail them here with enough to cover return shipping...

    machine them if they're not below specs..! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. 99firehawk

    99firehawk 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    eh...turning rotors sucks. Just replace them. They're $25 each, which is probably about double the cost of turning them.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif I would rather turn my rotors than drive out 12 studs and put em back in. If rotors were ment to replaced each time why do they make em so you can machine em?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Actually most modern cars you would be lucky to be able to turn the rotors once, theres very little excess material there from the factory. Turning rotors makes the rotors thiner, this causes the rotor to heat up faster and will lead to warping, then 2000 miles after you had the rotors cut and spent the time to take them on and off, you have to to do it again and this time the rotors are under machine too and you have to buy new. I would rather do it once.
     
  12. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    ehh...actually most modern vehicles you can turn the rotors a good two or 3 times before they will be near enough to minimum thickness to throw away...foci being one major exception, where not only are the pads harder than the rotors, you cant machine the drums either....besides he doesnt have a newer vehicle anyways and im willing to bet his rotors are still plenty thick to machine..i bought new rotors once for my 87 4runner, which were thinner than the ones i took off, and they warped the same day, its all a matter of quality..if you feel you must buy rotors, i would buy GM parts...
     
  13. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    its all a matter of quality..if you feel you must buy rotors, i would buy GM parts...

    [/ QUOTE ] Yeh brakes and fuel lines are probably the only two parts on my truck that i would never consider pep boys specials.
     
  14. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    Wow...I didnt think this post would get anywhere but I have an update and some thoughts.

    [ QUOTE ]
    Actually most modern cars you would be lucky to be able to turn the rotors once, theres very little excess material there from the factory. Turning rotors makes the rotors thiner, this causes the rotor to heat up faster and will lead to warping, then 2000 miles after you had the rotors cut and spent the time to take them on and off, you have to to do it again and this time the rotors are under machine too and you have to buy new

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Very true. My 02 Firehawk with 18K miles already has warped rotors from a couple of fast stops. If I turn them, they will warp again even faster and worse. I learned this with my 81 Honda and 94 T-burd. Thats also the reason I didnt get the 1LE Camaro Rotors for my 71 Elky disk swap. I went with the orig 73 Buick LeSabre Raybestos rotors (Things are beefy and no warping even after making brake smoke in the canyons /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif)

    But, back to the thread. I have had good luck just replacing the pads without turning rotors if they're not warpped. I usually hit them quickly with a sanding disk which I didnt do this time being in a rush. The rotors looked pretty clean and I didnt want to mess around pulling them off. I just spent over a week doing the lift and making mods to the truck and honestly just wanted to bolt the tires on and be done with the whole damn thing. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

    Now I usually break in new pads by making 3-4 quick stops after installation. I only drove the truck a few blocks making very light stops just to make sure nothing was going to fall apart and I had a chance of it making it to work. I didnt notice any pull but it got pretty severe when I started driving it at higher speeds. I started wondering if the pads didnt set in properly.

    On my way home from work tonite, I took a backroad and rode the brakes while applying more and more pressure until it was under a pretty good load for about 50-100' then let off. I did it one more time then drove a little ways and applied the brakes. They had a slight pull but not too bad so I sped up a little and did 3 simi-hard brake slowdowns. Drove it home and it seems to be stopping straigt now. I will check it in the morning on my way into work when it 30deg and see if its fixed.

    I think it is a coincidense (sp?) that it was pulling to the right which was the same way it was pulling before I did the conversion. I noticed the pull getting worse when I started to slow down from 60 for a light. It pulled harder and harder the more I slowed down. The new lift may have amplified the effect over the stock springs. I also know those particular pads come on stronger the hotter they get. Thats why I choose them.

    Thanks for the help. If it still pulls tomorrow, I will pull them apart and attack the rotors. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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