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Putting motor back together, any tips?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by garlicbreath, Jul 9, 2006.

  1. garlicbreath

    garlicbreath 1/2 ton status

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    I am getting ready to put my 350 back together and want to get a list together before I start so I don't forget anything. I am putting the entire assembly together.

    What are some tips, tricks, things you learned the hard way?

    Like making sure the engine shop put the 3 pipe plugs in the back of the block by the cam, BEFORE you put the motor in and prime the garage floor with 5 quarts of oil.:haha::haha:

    It's a roller motor, so no need to break in the cam.
     
  2. danny7139

    danny7139 1/2 ton status

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    Make sure all freeze plugs are in, oil plugs, wipe down the clyinder walls and make sure no dirt metal shavings or anything are in them. Make sure you have all the rings and the right ones. Right size pistons. Oh and make sure you put the pistons facing the right way. Dot to the front if I remember unless the machinist said otherwise. Make sure your cam bearings are in place. Put plenty of lube on them also. Use antiseize on bolts. Have oil on hand, recommend in a squirt can. Make sure you torque the head bolts in sequence. Oh and make sure that if you use a breaker bar to manually turn the engine don't crack the bolt off in the crank nose. I've never done it but that would suck. Lube everything as much as you think you need and then some more. I've always used white lithium, it just breaks down into the oil after the oil gets everywhere it needs to be. One more thing, don't get frustrated, then you start breaking parts.
     
  3. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Torque your bolts in increments. Not all the way at one time.

    Put some short pieces of hose over the rod bolts to keep them from scoring the crank when they slide by.
     
  4. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Kinda cool tip. Put the front seal in the timing cover, lube it up, and slide it over the crank snout. If the pins dont line up with the holes in the tin, drill out the holes (or make them bigger just on GP). Once you get the cover/ seal centered on the crank, tighten the bolts slow so the cover doesn't move around. Viola, perfectly centered seal on the crank, no leaks for a long time.
     
  5. RaisedK5

    RaisedK5 1/2 ton status

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    Make sure they/you put the oil passage plug in under the rear main or oil will bypasss the filter and thats not so good.
     
  6. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    buy a case of brake parts cleaner, clean EVERYTHING before assembly. cleanliness can make the difference between a 100mi motor, and a 100,000 mi motor VERY easily.
     
  7. 3 on the tree

    3 on the tree 1/2 ton status

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    If you are running a mech fuel pump, don't forget the pushrod for it. They don't run very good without it.
     
  8. jeeptuff

    jeeptuff 1/2 ton status

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    Check your ring gap, use plasti-gauge. Use a degree wheel if accessible. And most important, don't get flustered, have fun "building" it, keep everything clean as possible.
     

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