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Putting on front springs

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 78Jimmyish, Oct 2, 2001.

  1. 78Jimmyish

    78Jimmyish 1/2 ton status

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    I'm having a hell of a time getting the front springs into the shackles because of the arch. Anyone got any tips? It looks like if I bolt the front in and then jack up the axle the rear should slide into position, does this sound right? I'm replacing the hardware and having a bitch of a time finding 5" grade 8 bolts. I think I found them but won't be able to pick them up until tomorrow. Hoping to knock this out tomorrow after work so I can drop the T-case on Thursday and do the steering arm Friday. All so I can leave to go camping Saturday morning. Got a marathon week ahead of me, any tips appreciated.

    Oh, and one other question - I'm going to a 4" lift from 2.5" - I'm pretty sure the steering arm on there now is stock. Will I be okay if I have to leave the steering arm stock and change it after I get back or do I have to do the swap before I leave?
     
  2. SlyDog

    SlyDog 1/2 ton status

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    we just dropped the axle and put the body on jack stands and bolted our 4" springs right on. So with the body jacked up the spring bottoms were sitting about an 1 1/2 above the axle while the axle is restingo on the ground ..... follow me ? [​IMG]

    <font color=green>[​IMG]1977 K5 GETTIN IT AWN[​IMG]</font color=green>
    The flag still stands for freedom and they cant take that away !
     
  3. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Big hammer

    Lots of swearing and a few jacks helped tremendously.
     
  4. 78Jimmyish

    78Jimmyish 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, I see what you're getting at. Problem is, my springs seem to come up short unless some of the arch is taken out of them (with the weight of the truck) See what I'm saying? If I drop the axle (which I have) and put the body on stands (which I have) and put the springs up there they come up and inch or so short, but as I take some of the flex out with weight, I think the rear part of the spring will slide down the frame and into the shackle. Make sense?
     
  5. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    I think it'll work, might be able to jack the spring up into place. Is your axle attached to the new springs already? I think I put the springs on then the axle. As far as leaving the steering arm on for the weekend, shouldn't be a prob. Might damage your turn signal cancel device. My wheel is off center from my lift and I've been lazy fixing it. Now my left turn signal cancel failed. Might be related? You should adjust your wheel out with the drag link to level it. Damn I better do that to. Make sure your vehicle is blocked well whey your doing the lift. Be safe.
     
  6. 78Jimmyish

    78Jimmyish 1/2 ton status

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    Axle is still unattached. I can't get the spring on without somehow jacking some of the arch out of the springs. So I'm putting the axle underneath it, bolting the front in, and then using the curve of the frame to guide the spring into place in the shackle. Make sense? I hope it works; 20 yrs worth of rust has been frustrating enough - I was hoping once all the old cr@p was off I wouldn't have any more issues..sigh. Fingers crossed.
     
  7. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    You should be able to loosen the top bolt in the shackle and swing it forward to aid in linning up the hole with the spring. Also don't tighten any of the hanger bolts( front hanger and the shackle bolts) until the axel is on the ground and the vehicle weight is on it, otherwise you'll put a preload in the springs if you tighten it up with weight on it. I did mine the wrong way and it made the front ride funny, so I had to loosen them up and then retighen them. Safety first too!

    <font color=red>Build it, wheel it, break it, fix it....repeat</font color=red>
    <font color=orange> 1955 Willy's</font color=orange>
     
  8. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    you should increase the front spring shackle length while you are there. it will prevent the springs from pounding the frame when compressed. i think that may be why some lift companies make the front springs too short, it is the only reason i can come up with.
    one shackle at a time with nuts on real loose if at all, persuade with a 4# or better BFH, could maybe be helped with long prybar or block of wood between frame and spring.
     
  9. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    The turn signal cam and steering arm difference are not related, cars can have a turn signal cam fail and they don't have lifted steering arms. It may be part but it wouldn't fail.

    <font color=red>Build it, wheel it, break it, fix it....repeat</font color=red>
    <font color=orange> 1955 Willy's</font color=orange>
     
  10. 78Jimmyish

    78Jimmyish 1/2 ton status

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    I would love to swing the shackle forward, but I had to cut the old bolts off the bottoms (rust) and I wouldn't be surprised if the top ones are frozen in place too. So I should leave the spring bolts loose when I lower the truck down, but tighten the U-bolts to spec, right?
     
  11. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    yep, sounds like you need a set of ORD front shackles[​IMG]

    <font color=red>Life is like a mud hole:</font color=red>
    <font color=green>When the S#!T gets deep, you have to keep moving</font color=green>
    <font color=orange>1955 Willy's</font color=orange>
     

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