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Q about lifting a Sub...

Discussion in '1936-Present Suburban' started by thatK30guy, Nov 24, 2002.

  1. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I'm planning to lift the '89 sometime. Thinking of 4" with 1" ORD body lift.

    What I want to know is, how do you guys lift your rear? Should I run 4" front springs and 6" rear springs to prevent the "saggy butt"? Or would 4" rear springs and 1" zero-rates be the answer? Any input is welcomed since I've never had a Sub before and don't know what to expect with the lifts on these monsters. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  2. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I have the 4" Rough Country system (w/ rear springs). Suburbans have 56" rear springs. In order for Rough Country to accomodate this need, the 4" rear springs came from a 3/4 ton vehicle application. With both 4" front and back, it sits level, and still sits level even though I've got so much crap loaded in back (probably because of 3/4 ton springs).
    I knew it wouldn't be long until the mods start /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    SASS (Saggy-ass suburban syndrome) is something we all have to deal with. My burb had 2" blocks under it when I bought it. With the 4" blocks and add-a-leaf under the back of mine, my butt is still low. My suggestion would be to get the normal 4" springs and put in the small blocks later IF it starts to sag or if the front end lift is more than they say it is. My front went up 5.25" and the back went up 3". It's a 4" kit. 1 or 2" blocks aren't big enough to cause a lot of axlewrap. My rear springs are officially toast, so I might be buying a new set. I'll probably buy the 5.5" pro comp rears to firm up the ride and to compensate for sag.

    P.S. I'm sure you know this, but the shocks they give you in the lift kit, they're never the right length.
     
  4. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    i would go with a 4" flip kit and and zero rates in the rear and 4" fronts with a 1" body. i'm currently running 4" front springs and 4" blocks. i have a set of 4" flips sittin here ready to install this weenend. and i also have a set of 1" HILL4wd shackles and a 2" body lift. /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  5. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    yeah one day it'll be a set of soft 6" fronts and 2" kinda stiff rears with my 4" flip. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif it'll awlays be changing. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
     
  6. tomseviltwin

    tomseviltwin 1/2 ton status

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    4" in front and 6" in the back is a good combo. I'll get a shot tommorow of a 3/4 ton set up like that.
     
  7. or2play

    or2play 1/2 ton status

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    Well I just completed the lift on my suburban. Put 6" tuff country ez-rides in front. Rear is the springer setup. Marv built my springs slightly different (due to weight). Its hard to tell right now, but from the looks of it, its setting level. Hopefully once the springs break in, it doesn't drop to much.
     
  8. dleroy43

    dleroy43 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Ive got 4" rough country front springs, rear4" blocks with a rough country short addaleave. It sit sits preety level now, but I would like the rear a little higher, for loads. But I should be getting my ecoflip any day now and Ill see how that works /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  9. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    Just remember a shackle flip or the Springer setup is not optimum for towing, if it matters to you guys.

    When I get my 91 it'll be all spring lift...............like my K5 is/was. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  10. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    Very true....! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif This is an important point that should not be overlooked!

    Marv
     
  11. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Thanks for bringing up that point, Frank! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    I had forgotten to mention that I plan to use this Sub for towing. It's already got the hitch mounted to it, so I need to decide whether I want to swap the rear springs out or not.

    I've got 4" Skyjacker front and rear springs on my '85 K30 and when I tow with those rear springs, they still squat quite a bit with heavier loads. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif This is what I'm trying to stay away from...too soft of rear springs for towing.

    I may end up leaving the stock rear springs in and just use a short block and an add-a-leaf of the spring type. Maybe like a 2.5" block and a 2.5" add-a-leaf to get the 5" in order to get the rear up higher to sit level than the front.

    What do you guys think? Should I leave the rear stock springs in there or swap them out for some 4" or 6" rear springs?
     
  12. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    well if you had 6" rears made by alcan or national, you could have a stiff spring for towing that won't sag much. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  13. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    LMAO!! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Yeah, if only I had a deeper check book, too!! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  14. Smurfmobile85

    Smurfmobile85 1/2 ton status

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    We have the stock 3/4 springs, 4" block and an add-a-leaf in the rear. The front has 4" springs. It sits level and when we put the travel trailer on the hitch she may have moved an inch but not more! We were pleasantly surprised. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Deana
     
  15. FLASHLIGHT76

    FLASHLIGHT76 1/2 ton status

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    Well I'm running 6inch front and rear. They are superlift easy rides. The rears come out of a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck in order to get the 56 inch spring. The overloads on these are curved upwards and provide great strength and yet yield out standing flex. My rear flexes way better then the front and when I tow I don't sag un less its loaded. Even then when I put the weight transfer bars on the hitch it solves the slight sag. I've been running these springs for over a year now and have really put them through their paces and they still havn't sagged one bit. I'm going to add a 1"zero rate in the rear just to give me some room to breath out back. For the best of all worlds I recomend the super lifts Just make sure they send you the right bushings.
     

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