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Quadrajet rebuild

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Blazerbob, Mar 4, 2000.

  1. Blazerbob

    Blazerbob 1/2 ton status

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    I have been having problems with my carb. It is the original carb from the 81 corvette 350 I put in my K5. The carb has 2 places for wiring to plug into and I am not sure what they were for. Lately the motor has been idling a little rough and sounds like it has a miss in it. My idea was to have the quadrajet from my 80 blazer rebuilt and put it on the 83. Working 55-75 hours a week, not much time or patience left when home. Is it hard to do or should I find an experienced carbman to do it or would someone here want to do it for some cash or ?

    Blazerbob<font color=blue>[​IMG]
     
  2. Blazerbob

    Blazerbob 1/2 ton status

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    I just got back from a dinner run to Booger King and the K5 is running worse. I stopped at the gas station on the way back because the drive thru took 15 minutes and 5 gallons of gas. The carb was loading up then was flooded when I started it at the station. What to do?

    Blazerbob<font color=blue>[​IMG]
     
  3. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    BlazerBob:

    The rebuild is not as hard as it seems. As long as you keep every little part in order and don't lose anything, it's pretty simple. I say go ahead and try it yourself. You just disassemble everything except the choke assembly, and soak it in carb cleaner. Then reassemble everything back using the parts included in the carb kit instead of some of the old ones.

    For me, the hardest part is to remove the accel-pump lever and the choke lever.

    My best recommendation is to buy Doug Roe's Rochester book. You'll find it in http://www.amazon.com. After that you'll never be afraid to tweak your carb by yourself. It explains how it works, so you'll know exactly what happens after every change you make.


    <font color=purple>////////
    Go 79s!!!
    </font color=purple>[​IMG]
     
  4. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    Like the man said.Try the rebuild kit. It is not that hard. you Get diagrams and all the settings.Last kit I bought was $25.00. Alot better then $350.00 for new carb.

    <font color=green>Eagle86K5
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: wrong carb dude.

    If the carb has a wiring hook up on the top of the carb and you don't have the wires to suport it thats your problem. This connection is an electric mixture control There are 2 electric variations of the Quad. One is just a mixture control and it sounds like this is the one you have. The other is damn near fuel injection without electric fuel injectors. This carb is know as the CCC (computer control carb). It will have a throttle position sensor located next to the throttle linkage. Since you have only indicated 2 connections I belive you have the one before it. Both will have an electric choke and if no power is aplied to the choke then the choke will stay on. It will have a round bowl on the passengerside of the carb with a single connection simular to your stock choke but without the heat pipes. Regardless both of these carbs used an ECU and a O2 sensor and will not work correctly without them. The 48 state truck didn't recive these carbs till 84 or so. Cal trucks may have recived them sooner. You just plain have the wrong crab for your truck it sounds like you need to get the right one that doesn't have the electric hook ups. Now I personaly like the electric choke set up and you can easily modify a carb off a 78-80 truck to electric choke. You simply put some vac caps on the inlet pipes and replace the adustment and heat spring with an electric unit ($27 at auto zone or you could use the one on the carb you have that will not work) The wire on the side needs to be hooked to an ignition source through a oil pressure switch so that the choke is only energized when the engine is running. The reason for this is so the choke doesn't cycle if you have the key in the on posistion without starting the engine. If you have access to the car that carb came off you can trace the choke wire back and get the harness, sensor and T fitting to make it work on your truck.
    Now if you have the original carb the parts for a rebuild are cheap. About $20 if your float is good. You will however need some cleaners. Get a gallon bucket of carb/ parts cleaner and about 2-3 cans of carb cleaner spray. Your carb is to big to drop in the bucket but if you got a empty antifreeze jug you can cut the top off and the carb will fit and you can put the parts cleaner into that. leave some in the can so you can clean the small parts.
    The Key to rebuild a carb is this...Clean...you must have clean place to work where you can lay out all the parts.....PAY ATTENTION to the way it comes appart.....Follow the directions to setting the float level. If you take your time this is not a hard job. it can easily be done in an afternoon. Just don't even think about removing the screws that hold the butter flies to the control rods. Leave them in place when you drop it in the bucket.
    When you're done with the carb do yourself a favor and check and replace any vacum lines that are questionable. Vac leaks will run you ragged. One place many people miss vac leaks is inside the truck. The heat/air system controls are vacum operated and if there is a leak inside the truck it will cause you problems. The line that feeds to the controls runs over the top of the blower box and through the firewall on the passenger side. The T in the intake that feeds this is also prone to leaks check that. Carb cleaner is an easy way to check for leaks (just don't use it inside the truck just under the hood). If you spray it around the base of the carb and any of the vac connection if there is a leak the idle will drop. Give a shot down the throat of the carb to see what I mean.
    Post back if you have anymore questions. Good people here and you should get the answer your looking for real quick.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
     
  6. Mr Red

    Mr Red 1/2 ton status

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    Re: wrong carb dude.

    Grim's the man on carbs! Maybe this is a typo or my memeory is fad'n. when you hit a vacuum leak w/ carb cleaner [or spray it down the carb] won't the idle go up?

    <font color=red>David, '86 K5</font color=red>
     
  7. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: wrong carb dude.

    Well depends on the cleaner. Most cleaners have gone non flamable. So when it gets sucked in the idle drops for most. Heck if you shoot enough down the throat it will stall the engine. Now don't ever try this with brake cleaner. You will turn your truck into a biological weapon of war! When that comes out the tail pipe you better have on a gasmask or be up wind! I about did myself in. Was out of carb and grapped a can of brake cleaner on the shlft trying to free a stuck choke.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
     
  8. Blazerbob

    Blazerbob 1/2 ton status

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    Re: wrong carb dude.

    Thanks for the reply Grim. I knew it was the wrong carb but it was the only one that I had to use at the time. It did run good at first but now it is running rough. I will try to rebuild the carb from my junk 80 K5.

    Blazerbob<font color=blue>[​IMG]
     

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