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question about priming oil pump

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by solowookie, Aug 31, 2001.

  1. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    OK guys,

    my haynes engine overhaul manual for chevy's has 2 methods that are used for priming the oil pump. 1) basically running the oil pump until it pumps oil out... 2) getting a modified distributor and using a drill (after adding a couple quarts of oil) to prime the entire block until oil is flowing out all the rocker arm holes.

    I am wondering how important step number 2 is, and if it is something I need to do. (I'm sure it would be a good idea)... is there a tool that can be purchased for this purpose, the book lists that one would have to be made...

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
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  2. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    You can do this instead of using a modified distributor. What you do is put the rod in the block that goes to the oil pump, and turn that rod with a flat head screw driver. To this for a minute or two, then drop the distributor in. Ive done it this way probably a hundred times. It works just the same, but takes a little more elbow grease.

    86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  3. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    BTW this step is very important. You can also get a tool that goes in the drill, and turn it. I know summit has them, their about twenty bucks.

    86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  4. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Let me know if you dont understand. I will try and clear it up for you.

    86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  5. twenty_below0

    twenty_below0 1/2 ton status

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    the cheapest way to prime the pump is take an old screw driver and cut the handle off ( Flat ) stick it in a drill and then down the hole in the block to the pump where there is a slot.....just squeeze the trigger.... turning the pump where the distributer shaft will go until you get the pump primed and it wont take long. good luck any more questions mail me
     
  6. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    I was a bit confused until this last post... OK, so basically I got 2 options, the first being to just stick a regular screw driver down the hole and turning it by hand until everything is flowing OK, option 2 would be to do the same thing, except to break the handle off &amp; put that end into a drill???

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
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  7. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    You have to put the factory oil pump rod in first, then use a screw driver on top of it where its sloted.

    86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  8. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    OK, got ya...

    I haven't gotten the other engine broke down enough yet to figure out that there is a rod going from there down to the oil pump... (man that is the rod muddin was talking about... [​IMG])

    some of this stuff is layed out really good in the books, but I do not remember that being mentioned anywhere. I am sitting here going over that section in the book, and it talks about an 'oil pump drive shaft', but it doesn't go over it anywhere in the installation...

    OK, now I'm assuming I will pull this out of the old engine. do I install this before or after the manifold??? is there anything I really need to be careful about when installing the oil pump rod???

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
     
  9. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

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    I do it this way too. Also, you can leave the wiries off and crank it over a little with the starter. This puts very little load on things and I don't believe it will hurt the break in.

    The more oil you have on those bearings when it pops, the better.

    Lift It, Lock It, LIVE IT!!!
     
  10. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    You can put it in with or without the manifold on. The only thing you have to watch for is make sure it sits in their properly. You will know, because if its not in right you will never get you distribotor in.

    86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  11. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, I have an O/T question, DesertDueler:
    Why are you still a "Pavment Pounder", you have 239 posts!?!

    I have about 150, how long do we have to be "Pavment Pounders"? Others have the "Wheeler" title with less than 200 posts.

    Lift It, Lock It, LIVE IT!!!
     
  12. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    I dont know. I was wondering that myself the other day.

    86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  13. RedDwarf

    RedDwarf 1/2 ton status

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    At least they could have spelled it right! :-D

    Lift It, Lock It, LIVE IT!!!
     
  14. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Never noticed that before. Your right.

    86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  15. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    I've got an old carpenter's "chipper" drill bit that I use for a primer. Really you just have to be creative, and use whatever you have laying around that works.

    1 tequila 2 tequila 3 tequila Floor
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  16. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    IMO Jeff... Since you got another motor to do... run down to the local parts store and pick up a priming tool for $20 or have Jeg's, Summit, or Powerhouse overnight one to ya if they don't have one. Then I just stick the one end in a power drill and let it go for a good 2 minutes or so right before you put the distributor in and fire it up. But I would just order up/get the tool and worry about priming the pump after the manifold is on and the motor has everything on it and is just about ready to fire. Plus keep in mind you'll need a full pan of oil. I knew a guy once that primed his pump before he put the oil in... opps [​IMG] .

    Also I don't recomend the put the motor in and crank it over w/ no spark. to prime it method That takes away the whole point of priming the system. It is so you don't have the crank, cam, and rods rubbing on bearings w/ no oil. Sure there may be assembly lube on there but I would hate to press my luck... especially on a crate motor or motor I didn't assmeble that may or may not have gotten enough lube on it. Also note that the lube is basically for cracking the stuff by hand when you are checking piston to valve clearence and adjusting rockers, etc. Just my $.02 though

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
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  17. Mr.Chevy4x4

    Mr.Chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Most parts houses have a tool loaner program where you pay for the cost of the tool up front and when you return it the refund your money. This is what I do when I need a primer. You will never fully lubricate the top end of your motor by using a screwdriver shaft. The body of the distributor housing acts as part of the oil gallery that oils the lifters, and without it in there you will not be able to build up enough pressure to oil the top end. Go get a oil pump primer and do it the right way! You don't want to spend all of that time and effort(not to mention money) on replacing your engine, and only half way do something as important as pre-lubing the new motor! Just my $.02 worth.

    '85 K5 : Run it til it breaks, then fix it and go again!
     
  18. Jeff427

    Jeff427 1/2 ton status

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    Jeff, I would also highly recommend getting a new oil pump drive shaft with a steel sleeve instead of the using the stock one with the plastic sleeve, as the plastic ones get brittle over time.

    The reason for using an old distributer is so you can lube the cam, without using a tool or an old distributer the cam wont get any lube to it. If you have an extra distributer, all you have to do is grind the drive gear teeth off so it doesn't engage the cam gear.

    Jeff427
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  19. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    ok guys, well it looks like I am going to go hunting a primer tool...

    thanks for the recommendations!

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
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  20. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Get the right tool and have a happy engine. [​IMG] The posts above hit it right on. If you look at the tool in the Summit catalog, you'll see that it has a large bushing near the top. That bushing is what allows the pump to build pressure to lube the cam, lifters, etc. WIthout it, you'll just be lubing up the crank, and not even doing that very well, since the oil pressure will be very low.

    One last trick is to run the drill for a while, then rotate the engine by hand about 1/2 turn, run the drill some more, rotate again, etc. Until you've made 2 complete revolutions of the crankshfaft. This makes sure that every part of the engine has been exposed to fresh oil before you hit the key for the first time.

    Lots of folks will tell you that they didn't do any of this and that their engine is running fine. But the details are part of what make the difference between an engine that lasts 50K miles and one that lasts 150K miles. At 40K both will seem to be successful rebuild/installs. But only one person will be really happy with their engine a year or two later. [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
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