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Question for all with a 67-72 GM 4X4 truck with a 14BFF

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Beast388, Apr 7, 2003.

  1. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    I am in the process of prepping the 14BFF to go into the rear of my Burb. I have mocked up the spring perches as well as the shock tabs. I measured the distance between the shock tabs on my 12 bolt, and I measure 25" on center. When I position the tabs on the 14 bolt, the drivers side tab is right on the seam where the axle tube is pressed into the cast diff housing. See Pic HERE

    For those of you with the stock shock set up, did you weld the tabs on straddling the seam? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

    If you are running a custom shock set up, let me know what you did, and how it works. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Thanks!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  2. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I ran into that problem as well. I just ended up fudging the mount out a bit so it would be all on the axle tube.
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Ben,

    Here are a few shots of my setup:


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]




    Those are the Rancho 9012's and they are mounted on the outside of the springpack. As you can see, the lower mount is VERY close to the wheel (which is a GOOD thing). The upper mount makes good use of the 2" body lift and allows me to set the shock up with about 6.5" of bumptravel. In retrospect, I probably don't need THAT much on the "bump" side, and could have used a shorter upper mount. More than half of the useable shock travel should typically be reserved for "droop" anyway.

    Hopefully these pics give you some new ideas. If I were you I'd really reconsider putting the shocks SO far inboard....you're going to have almost ZERO roll-control with the setup that you've started building. :eek1:



    EDIT: Repaired broken photo links... 2010.12.22
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2010
  4. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    sothe stock shock mount spacing will hit the diff housing, by moving the mounts out I take it that I'll need new shocks...cause I have more movement out at the ends...
     
  5. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the info Dan, good thing to know that I wasn't crazy, or had funny measurements. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Greg,
    Let me first say that the more pics I see of your rig, the more impressed I am. Sweet machine! Thanks for the pics and explanation! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    For now I am going to use the stock set-up. Eventually I will go custom for all of the outboard stability benefits. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  7. POFF

    POFF 1/2 ton status

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    I had the same problem. I just moved it over about a 1/2" from where you have it. The rearend shop welded one side to the axle tube and one side to the edge of the housing. 1/2" shouldn't make a difference.
     
  8. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Ben,

    The other thing that helps prevent binding of the shock (in case you haven't already figured it out) is to make sure that you have the orientation of the shock bolts in opposite directions (one bolt runs the front-to-back direction, the other runs laterally across the axle) That way, no matter what axis is being twisted (x, y, or z) there is always 1 part of the shock that is free to pivot without binding......

    A simple concept, and it works too. My upper mount runs front-to-back and the axle tube is the lateral setup. You can see it somewhat in those pics.



    Oh yes, and /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif on all those compliments!
     
  9. SUBFAN

    SUBFAN 1/2 ton status

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    It is kind of hard to see that top mount, what did you use????
     
  10. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    The top mount is just a simple piece of flat steel with a couple of tabs welded on. It's purpose was to get that upper mount as high as possible and take advantage of the 2" body lift.

    It was never intended to be a permanent solution, I just wanted to try it out to verify my shock ideas would work....that was about 18 months ago!!! :D
    I suppose I could go back an do something more "nice" looking, but I've got enough NEW stuff to do before going back and re-doing stuff that works well.

    BTW -> It still flexes just as nice as the MOO or Howlin setups would....

    [​IMG]

    ....that's 1092 on a 23-degree ramp.


    :thumb:


    EDIT: Fixed broken photo links 2010.12.22
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2010
  11. clubba68

    clubba68 1/2 ton status

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    Greg, do you have any close up pictures of the shock mount on the axle?
     
  12. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Nothing better than what you've already seen in those pics.

    In reality, you don't get much choice on where the mount goes......here's how I did it:

    Figure out what shock you want to use. Figure out the extended length that you want to have at static ride height (I set the shock up for half-travel at rest, but probably should have only had about 1/3" of the piston showing....more for droop, less for compression)

    Cut a small stick of wood, doweling, etc to that overall length and start holding it up to the axle and frame areas....see where you might be able to make it fit at both ends. Play around with angling it forwards, and inwards.

    Remember to give yourself clearance for the tire. When things start flexing, the uppermount you've chosen, might not be so "out of the way" anymore.



    /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  13. hvy chevy

    hvy chevy Registered Member

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    Greg, any chance of reposting these pics? Thanks :)
     
  14. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Since it's obvious (from all the recently resurrected old threads) that you're doing a lot of searching around here, I've gone back and repaired all the broken photo links above.

    :usaflag:
     
  15. hvy chevy

    hvy chevy Registered Member

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    Thank you Greg! :bow:
    It's time for me to mount my rear shocks, and I like how you did yours. Have you seen a better option since this setup that you had here?

    Edit: other than linked rear suspension ;) Outstanding work BTW
     
  16. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Take another look at Dennis' thread (Grinch Build)... he's doing a very similar rear setup to what I'd originally done. More importantly, study his leafspring diagram that helps show "free arch" which ultimately determines how much real uptravel (bump) your suspension is capable of. In reality if you can get 4 or 5 inches of bump travel with a leafspring you're doing pretty well.

    The main point is to understand what your "real" available travel is going to be (for both bump and droop) and buy the right-sized shock for the application. Avoid the temptation to buy a 12" travel shock if you only have 10" of travel. All you are going to accomplish is creating a lot more packaging headaches with the longer shock body... and ultimately you'll end up with a steeper installed angle and a less effective damping rate.

    My old recommendation about cutting a scrap of wood to the dimension of the shock (at it's static ride height) is still a favorite method to start looking for mounting points that will work well. Remember to keep the upper mounts slightly tucked-in towards the frame or the tire will rub against them when you articulate a single tire up into the wheelwell.


    :usaflag:
     
  17. hvy chevy

    hvy chevy Registered Member

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    I will do. Thanks again for all the advice, sure is appreciated. I'll post up when I get it done :weld:
     
  18. makovai

    makovai 1/2 ton status

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    its kinda hard to tell but this is how i did mine. it's not the best way to go, but it was ez and it does work pretty well.

    i have a real clean pdf of this file here

    BTW, this setup did not require me to drill any holes in my frame (this includes dual shocks and kicker shocks). I used pre-existing factory holes.


    i just noticed the top view of my diffy is whacked. oh well i think you get the point.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2010

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