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Question for you people with ORD body lift.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by UseYourBlinker, Apr 8, 2002.

  1. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Did you have to legthen the tranny linkage or the t-case linkage? Also is your t-case dropped at all? Going to install mine next Saturday,and if I have to do some welding I want to do it before Saturday.. I also tried a search,but came up with nadda.
     
  2. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    I have my t-case lowered an 1-1/2" and I had to extend my tranny linkage. Man, I have to get this review done.
     
  3. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    steve,

    did you just weld in a piece of metal or does the kit come with it?

    Later
     
  4. 2Dogs

    2Dogs 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I needed to adjust the tranny linkage and my transfer case is not lowered.

    Are you gonna do this thing or just post about it /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  5. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    I have a dropped t-case... and a 1" ORD body lift. I had to adjust both linkages... it wasn't really that hard. I had never done it before, and still managed to just fiddle with it until it worked ok. The tranny linkage seemed the most picky to me... pretty small changes in it was the difference between nice smooth shifting and getting stuck in 1st gear or whatever. I can send pics of my now-adjusted linkage if needed.

    J
     
  6. K5DRAGER

    K5DRAGER 1/2 ton status

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    I just finished mine. Installed new bushings also. My trans and transfer case are not lowered and all I had to do is loosen up my linkage down by the trans and it slid up to where it needed to be. There was plenty left for the adjustment. The rod slid about a half an inch is all. Other than that all I did was trim my fan shroud so the fan would not hit. And the only PITA was the factory bumper brackets in the rear that hold the factory bushings in place, because my gas tank was full at the time and they tell you to remove them and the only way is to drop or move the gas tank. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other ?'s.
     
  7. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Doin it Saturday Dave..so far Dunerunner (Ken) and Ryan B are coming over to help me.
     
  8. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I just bought mine... I looked at the rear body mounts already (only because I pulled one thru! /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif ) Do you really have to pull the tank? I'm not looking forward to that job if that is the only way to get in there! *YUCK*

    Has anyone completed a write up on this? I would love to know all the tricks to installing this as painlessly as possible. (DUH!) Thanks guys!

    -Dan
     
  9. sapper

    sapper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    put mine on a week or two ago. i used the ord body mounts and a 3" lift. the t-case was fine with it at dropped and back up to normal. the gas filler might have to changed to a new one, the steering wheel might need to let out, and the fan shroud. the biggest pita i had was the back two. there is a shelf that the bottom poly mount sitts on inside the frame and i didnt know that so i thought my bolts were to short.its a good thing you have help coming a couple times i wanted to just shoot it. good luck
     
  10. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I'm actually pulling the 3" I have now, in favor for the ORD 1" lift. The 3" allows the body to have too much leverage on the mounts, giving them a better chance to do damamge to the mounts, the body mount holes in the body, etc... I am looking forward to having a tighter body feel than b4.

    Happy to know that the job heading my way is going to be nothing short of a nightmare! /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

    -Dan
     
  11. 2Dogs

    2Dogs 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    If it rains I might be there - do you have a covered area?

    If it is clear I will be going back to Stoneyford. Two weekends in a row. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    Have you arranged for good jacks and lifting blocks?
     
  12. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    If it rains I might be there - do you have a covered area?
    (Nope - If it rains it's a no go!)


    Have you arranged for good jacks and lifting blocks?
    (I have a 1 ton jack and 4 jackstands,Ryan B is gonna come with another jack and a set of jack stands I think)
     
  13. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    get a bottle or scissor jack. not a floor jack. maybe you know this already. this way you dont shift your ody on yout frame too much
    grant
     
  14. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Didn't know you were doing a reveiw on the 1 inch. I was going to hit on it also. Just installed a set a couple weeks back. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif hahaha
    On mine I was able to do some tweeking and take some of the bend out of the linkage and it was long enough. Case is in stock location. I also had to heat the steering shaft with a blow torch to melt the plastic in the sleve and extend it about 3/4 of an inch. Pay close attention to the point where the shaft goes into the colum. There is a T shaped head in their. It can slide out some but on my truck it was dangerously near the end. I had a bud who did not extend the shaft on a Toyota that has a very simular set up. Drove it for years then one day the truck flexed just right and the T poped out. Ended up rolling the truck as a result. Picture on both my sites.
    I also was able to lower the stock fan shroude one ince without cutting out the bottom. Just trimmed it where it was hitting the frame and made some extensions to lower it it down an inch.
     
  15. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    I replied to your PM on this, but since others had Q's too, I'll post here. (I used to have a write up on this btw, but loss it when we lost the old CK5 site....).
    Anyhow, just need to adjust the tranny linkage. didn't have to fool with the tcase linkage. My tcase is dropped about 1 or 1.5" (using the stock GM spacers).
    Don't have to drop the tank, if you remove the rear bumper...it's a tight space to get your hands in there if you remove the rear bumper, but can be done...otherwise, remove the tank to get access to the # 5 position mounts (removing tank is cake anyhow).

    I just shaved off a portion of the bottom fan shroud...easy thing to do, just remove the bottom half piece, Use a grinder and it cuts through like butter.

    No need for jackstands...can't think of a time where I used them during this mod (truck is high enough to get under without jacking up)....bottle jacks is what you use....1 ton sounds kinda small and weak, but I'm sure it might work since you're only lifting a portion of the body. I have 4 ton to 20 ton bottles...I used the 12, so I didn't have to stack too many blocks of wood underneath. Get piece of 2x6 or something to put under the body to jack it up too.

    Lubricate all the nuts and bolts days ahead of time. Loosen all of them first. Loosen the tranny linkage bolt. Then start up front and work your way back down one side (like driver side first), remove all position 1 through 5 bolts). Then raise the front end part, remove old bushing, replace and add 1" and go on down....becareful when removing the bolts with the captured nuts on position 2 and 3.
    Oh, you'll have to get in the truck and grind out the tack welds on the bolts on position 4 and 5 (yes, you'll have to move your carpet.) Use big washer when you put in the new bolts on position 4 and 5, so the bolt head won't go through the floor.....
    Basically, that's pretty much it.....Easy job. Takes about 4 hours if you don't bust any captured nuts loose.
    Boss
     
  16. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Boss you da man...That is the info I was looking for! /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  17. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Yep, what Boss said, I did have to grind the head off the passenger side rear bolt and tap it through though. I also had the bumper off at the time so I didn't have to drop the tank or anything either. The tricky bolt is the rear drivers side due to the light wires running through the frame there, had to tape the nut to a wrench to get it started while the wires were in the way.
     

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