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question of the day on my block

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by solowookie, Dec 29, 2001.

  1. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    ok guys, I'm pretty sure I know the answer to this, but I'm going to ask it to verify.

    if I can feel any kind of a ridge at all on the inside if the cyl. wall then it needs re-bored / rebuilt correct? there is a ridge, not big, but I can feel a ridge there (after I scraped the carbon scorning off with my pocket knife)

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  2. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    If it's not too bad, I've used a "ridge reamer" to clean that up before honing.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  3. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    so what qualifies as not too bad? is them something I would be better of having a machine shop do it (if I gotta do anything with block, was just planning on putting the new heads on, then I will take it to a machine shop and have them hot tank it.)

    I have new heads so I was hoping I could get away with doing absolutely minimul work on this. I was not going to do anything with the bottum end, and just put the new heads on and see how many more miles I can get out of it. Now I'm not sure how good that theory was, and there was also antifreeze sitting on top of cyl. #7 - it is at TDC so I really can't see what affect it had on the cyl. (it has been mostly sitting for the last 4 months)

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    If your not touching the bottom end, don't worry about it. The rings formed the groove as they broke in/wore in and it will not hurt them now any more than if you hadn't replaced the heads. If you were putting in new rings then you would need to use a ridge reamer or bore them. If you were putting in new piston rings you will almost always need to remove the ridge, it is normal. If the cylinders mic out at no more than .005 over bore (IIRC) then you just cut out the ridge and put in std rebuild rings. A shop would use the reamer if you had them do the hone and block prep (vat, cam bearings etc.). It's been many years since I fooled with rebuilding engines so I may be off on the exact number. I'm sure others here (and any automotive machine shop) will be able to verify or correct.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  5. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    hey bad dog thanks for the info! I got a friend coming over in the morning - best mechanic you'll ever find as long are you aren't talking electronic engines, but he's is extremely difficult to get in touch with so I got lucky! he should be able to tell me what kind of shape the bottum end is in (as far as possible).

    this guy works full time, and and has a couple part time jobs. mix that in with the fact that the guy never says no to helping anybody (if you can get in touch with him), and it is near impossible to find him. I never count on being able to get in touch with him cuz it just near impossible.

    at any rate it is good to know that is normal wear. my train of thought was if there is a ridge then the block needs rebuilt, and I didn't realize that was typical. I'm betting this will be in spec cuz you can feel a ridge, but it is very small.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>
     

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