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Question regarding unlocking manual hubs

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Eric M., Dec 31, 2002.

  1. Eric M.

    Eric M. 1/2 ton status

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    Do I ever need to (or should I be) driving a few feet in reverse after unlocking my manual hubs? I've driven my truck with a D60 front & Warn hubs for years and have always just unlocked the hubs after shifting back to 2wd. I put a D60 with Superwinch hubs in my Burb and I swear, after unlocking from snow driving, it felt like the hubs were still engaged until I stopped at a gas station and backed up a bit. Makes sense when you look at how they work. It seems like it would help release them if you reverse the load a bit.

    What do you guys do?

    Eric M.


    Happy New Year!
     
  2. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> You shouldn't need to back up, they should release just fine going forward, even if they stick for a minute they would pop out as soon as you hit the brakes, I would think. I never back up... </font color>
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Backing up is to release automatic hubs, mostly on Fords. My warns on my 10 bolt front release just fine without backing up.
     
  4. K5Kell

    K5Kell Guest

    I recently put warn premiums on my 10 blt and with it lifted when I would unlock one hub it still stayed engaged untill I would spin it backwards even only a fraction of a turn. I back up just to make sure they disengage but thats just me.
    -Kell-
     
  5. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    mine pop out of place (warns on a d44) and i can fell and hear them disengage without any movement. but just do whatever you need to on your truck- lift the front end and see where they disengage /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  6. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    In order for the dial to be easy to turn, the hubs are spring loaded. The inner spring is weaker than the outer spring. When you twist the dial to "Lock", the stiff outer spring applies pressure to the locking gear. If the splines are lined up correctly, the outer spring overcomes the pressure of the inner spring and the hub locks. But if the splines are not lined up correctly, the outer spring will force the locking gear into place and lock the hub as soon as they do line up.

    The same thing happens in reverse when you twist the dial to "Free". The outer spring pressure is removed, so the inner spring is trying to push the locking gear to the unlocked position. But if there's any driveline bind, then there's torsional pressure against the locking gear and the spring doesn't have the pressure to unlock right away. But when you start driving, the torsional pressure will decrease and the hub will soon unlock itself. Backing up just a few inches can release the torsional pressure. Either way, the hubs should unlock pretty quickly.
     
  7. 4x4 Cowboy

    4x4 Cowboy 1/2 ton status

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    i just unlock and go
     
  8. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    You explained it the best HarryH3, I was preparing to answer it this way but read through and found yours covering it perfectly.
    That is why I like the Spicer locks, I know if they engaged or not since it's not spring loaded, and the inner spring is strong enough to release it even with bind.
    If you don't back up, eventually at a turn one side would be coasting and release and a turn to the other side would release the second side, so i wouldn't worry about it much, but if it makes you feel better, you back up 1 foot and they should release instantly.
    I would think that even stationnary, if you move the wheel from lock to lock, it should release them.
     

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