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Questions about bleeding brakes...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by fortcollinsram, Mar 8, 2002.

  1. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, over spring break, I am going to be installing the rear extended brake line for my lift...I have NEVER dealt w/ drum brakes before....where is the bleeder screw on the rear brakes? Also, should the bleeder screw have a "dust cover" or something on them? When I bled my front brakes a whlie back, the bleeder screws were litterally rusted shut and I hat to drill it out so it would flow fluid...should i have some kinda rubber boot on there to keep crap out...And one last question...How can I COMPLETELY replace all the brake fluid? Should I just bleed it until the Master Cylindar is really loww then fill the master up with fluid and do this until clen flid comes out? or should I just take it to Brakes Plus and have then Power Flush the thing.... Thanks for all the help gang...


    Chris
     
  2. bobsurf

    bobsurf 1/2 ton status

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    I've bled my both my 73, and a buddies First Gen in the last couple of months. The bleeder valve on my drums were just above the axle on the back of the wheel cylinder. Pretty straight forward. I figure to bleed in all new fluid, just replace all of the fluid in the master cylinder, and bleed until you get new stuff out of every wheel.

    A side note, we had to do many laps around the truck before we were getting good output on all wheels. Lot's of patience was needed.
     
  3. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    When I put my one ton gear on, I went through 2 quarts of brake fluid, trying to get the brakes to bleed...............good for the effect of flushing that you also want, but fruitless in my quest for a hard pedal. Ended up having the dealership powerbleed them............best $60 I could spend.
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Be wary of your master cylinder..it seems fairly common for the seals to fail after bleeding them...mine was older so it was bound to happen anyways, but I did the rear brakes and ended up with a spongy pedal that eventually turned into no brakes. Just a heads up, not a doomsday warning : )
     
  5. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    If your rear wheel cylinder bleeders are frozen I would just replace them w/ rebuilt ones. If you do that make sure you use a good flair fitting wrench to remove the hard line! I use a old turkey baster to remove the old fluid from the master. If your truck has been neglected sometimes you need to scoop out the crud w/ a spoon! When you bleed the brakes put a block of wood under the peddel to keep it from going to the floor. Your master cylinder probibly has rust where the seals don't normally go and if the peddle goes to the floor it can tear up the seals.
     

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