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Questions on putting in a Dana 60 Front

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by k2-k5, Feb 17, 2004.

  1. k2-k5

    k2-k5 1/2 ton status

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    After looking for several months for a Dana 60. I finally found one a SRW 4.10 complete for $1250. Is this a good price? I know I'm not getting a steal but i'm tired of looking for a local K30 pickup that I could part out and keep the running gear. It appears to be in good shape rotors need to be turned, lock out hubs are in questionable shape.

    My other question is what am I going to run into when I install it in my Blazer. Driveline modifications? Is Leaf spring pad and centering pin hole in same location as 1/2 ton running gear? I will be using 6" springs probably Superlift. Steering arm? I want to convert to High steer anyway. What about brakes? Do I have to convert anything there?

    What else have I overlooked? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. unick

    unick 1/2 ton status

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    Well $1250 isnt a BAD deal. You can get them cheaper. As far as modifications youll need to either put 1ton yokes on your driveshaft or run conversion ujoints. The spring pads will need to be moved so youll need a new set of those. A few guys on here make them for about $25 a set. TonyP makes a good set.

    Hope this helps
    Nick
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Well $1250 isnt a BAD deal. You can get them cheaper. As far as modifications youll need to either put 1ton yokes on your driveshaft or run conversion ujoints. The spring pads will need to be moved so youll need a new set of those. A few guys on here make them for about $25 a set. TonyP makes a good set.

    Hope this helps
    Nick

    [/ QUOTE ]


    Nick what the heck are you talking about??? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    You don't move the spring perches on a D60 (we ARE talking about a front D60, right?)....especially since the passenger side one is cast INTO the pumpkin. That would make tough.

    My extended brake lines seemed to bolt right up to the calipers on the 60, the only problem was that the "block" where the banjo bolt goes through was a little too large for the seating area on the d60 caliper so I needed to "massage" it with a file slightly.... no biggie.



    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. Larry_in_Tx

    Larry_in_Tx 1/2 ton status

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    I just did the 1 ton swap on my ‘72 and the front was as about bolt in as it could get. The spring perches are a very fudgeable ½” out so no need to move ‘em, the shocks hit at the same spot and you’re ½ ton ujoint will work with the 60. I can’t tell you any thing about the brakes because I haven’t actually had mine out of the garage under its own power yet. /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

    As far as the steering goes I went with ORD’s cross over set up. I wish I could have done the hi steer along with it but someone must have pissed on the money tree out back because it’s dead.

    I’m sure I left something out but at any rate it’s really not that hard of a job. Believe me if I can get mine in there it can’t be that hard.

    Good luck.
     
  5. k2-k5

    k2-k5 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I wish I could have done the hi steer along with it but someone must have pissed on the money tree out back because it’s dead.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Thats some funny sh--.

    So spring perches will work as is. Brakes lines should bolt up with some massaging.
    My existing driveline will bolt up to the Dana 60 yoke??

    If I don't do the high steer for awhile, What steering arm should I get for a 6" lift that would bolt to the 60?

    Thanks for the great responses. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Get the "new" ORD crossover arm. It's basically 1/2 of their High Steer Kit (passenger side only), and if you decide to do highsteer later you don't waste anything.... (like I had to do)
     
  7. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    In my case, i used the same front d-shaft as i was running with my D44... The pinion must be a little bit longer with the D60 because my d-shaft is a bit too long now... it will bottom out sometimes.
    I was thinking the d-shaft would be stretched out even farther since the D60 will give you ~3/4" more lift.. but i was suprised to find my driveshaft length got shorter not longer.

    Only other thing i can see is if you are running a lift spring in the front... Mine has a 4* degree wedge shim under the leaf pack to tilt the front axle up for the correct d-shaft angle...
    This causes the studs/ bolts that go into the D60 housing to be at a 4* angle and the nuts for the studs or bolt heads won't sit flat against the u bolt top plate...
    I got a 4* ubolt top plate from tony p... or eccentric washers can do the trick.
     
  8. Larry_in_Tx

    Larry_in_Tx 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]

    Only other thing i can see is if you are running a lift spring in the front... Mine has a 4* degree wedge shim under the leaf pack to tilt the front axle up for the correct d-shaft angle...
    This causes the studs/ bolts that go into the D60 housing to be at a 4* angle and the nuts for the studs or bolt heads won't sit flat against the u bolt top plate...
    I got a 4* ubolt top plate from tony p... or eccentric washers can do the trick.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    That’s what I left out. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif I don’t see how I forgot because I’ve been shooting four letter words at the search feature most of the day trying to dig up info on the washers. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  9. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    I wouldn't pay any attention to Ryan.....he just like bragging about how long his shaft is now..... /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

    ....and Ryan, the trick washers are called "spherical washers". Buttmunchio! /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif
     
  10. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    If you are going to use a 6" lift you will need new longer brake lines anyway...so just get ones that fit right in the first place. D60's use the same size banjo bolt as a 10B (both use 10mm). Be warned that a extended rear line for a 2nd gen will only be about 2" longer than a 1st gen brake line. You will have to use a NAPA #348 u-joint in the rear. The front shaft will work fine. I think the balance of the longer snout on the D60 and 6" of lift should make the front shaft work fine. I bet Ryan had some "surgery" to get his shaft as long as it is now /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif

    For the back to bolt up you will need a 1-ton 14BFF and not a 3/4-ton.
     
  11. k2-k5

    k2-k5 1/2 ton status

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    So what is the difference between a 14ff from a 3/4 ton vs a 1 ton? I know there is a brake difference after '76 or something but are they basically the same axle?
     
  12. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Spring perches and shock mount locations.
    3/4 ton= bolt in for 2nd gens.
    1 Ton= bolt in for 1st gens. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif

    I think the brakes are the larger ones on 1 tons like 15" drums instead of 13" or something....
    I didn't really care since mine was getting disk brakes for not much more than the cost of rebuilding the drum brakes.

    /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  13. harry

    harry 1/2 ton status

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    Ryan,

    when you put the shims up front, didn't it change the caster/camber?

    Did you readjust it?

    thanks,
     
  14. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Camber is the anlge of the tire, if viewing from the front of the truck, positve camber= outward tilt of top of tire. negative camber= inward tilt of top of tire. This is unaffected. Would be adjusted by a shim behind the spindle.
    Caster is the axis on which the knuckle turns for steering, if viewing from the side of the truck... The 4 degree shim under my leaf pack rotates the housing 4 degrees so the pinion points up more for the driveshaft angle... This creates more negative caster, and the only way you can re-adjust it would be to cut off the knuckles and re-weld them on the axle tube. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif

    The point of my previous post is simply that i had those 4 degree shims with my old D44, and when i put in the D60, it has 3 ubolts and 2 bolts that thread into the housing instead of just 4 ubolts... so the passanger side top plate needs to either be machined at 4 degrees, or two spherical washers need to be used so the bolt heads seat flat against the ubolt top plate.
    ..whew!
     
  15. harry

    harry 1/2 ton status

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    got it. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    thanks,
     
  16. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    I've got the opportunity to get an 82 1 ton minus an engine for a pretty good price and the front axle would end up in my 69 K20. Using the handy search function has answered alot of my questions so won't have to ask them again and brought me to this post which also helps - but I'm at a loss on the steering issue.

    My 69 K20 has the closed knuckle Dana 44 so I couldn't use a raised steering arm - I had to use the adjustable drag link, when I did my initial lift. Will it be possible to put the 82's Dana 60 under my 69 K20 and used the adjustable drag link or is there more to getting the steering hooked up. Crossover steering would not be in the budget right now.

    Any help would be appreciated.
     
  17. jays68yak

    jays68yak 1/2 ton status

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    You can buy a block to raise the stock d60 steering arm. I wouldnt suggest it. I would save up the pennys and do crossover right off the bat. The ablity to turn is worth the money.
     
  18. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    So the drop draglink I am currently using with my Dana 44 isn't compatible or is just that the crossover will be the best way to go in the long run?
     
  19. jays68yak

    jays68yak 1/2 ton status

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    The drop draglink should bolt up but I have never tried. IMO crossover is WAY worth it down the line. If its a project....whats another month?
     
  20. MNorby

    MNorby 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    a friend ran a block to raise the stock steering arm up on his 60 at first. Got him by but why not take that $75 or whatever and apply that toward crossover and be done from the get go
     

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