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Quick help please!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by inscape, Jun 23, 2004.

  1. inscape

    inscape Registered Member

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    I'm making a new post about the Blazer I just bought, after letting it warm up for a few mins white smoke comes from the tail pipe. Also looking for the vibration I went underneath and there are NO clips holding the end caps of the u joints on the rear. The front u joint has a lot pf play veritacally. Actually the truck isn't legally mine yet because the co signer hasn't signed, so my dad thinks we should go get it smogged, but does the white smoke mean the headgasket or anything is leaking?
     
  2. bigyellowjimmy

    bigyellowjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Blue smoke = oil
    White smoke = condensation in the exhaust or anti-freeze

    Sounds like its time for new u-joints in the rear.

    /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  3. mrk5

    mrk5 The Sticker Guy Moderator Vendor GMOTM Winner Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    after letting it warm up for a few mins white smoke comes from the tail pipe.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    What does the exhaust smell like. Regular exhaust fumes, antifreeze, or more like real strong exhaust or gas.

    Regular smell would mean it's probably condensation, good. But that usually goes away once truck is warm.
    Antifreeze would me head problems, bad.
    Strong exhaust or gas would mean too rich, bad.

    Do you get black smoke at all?
     
  4. inscape

    inscape Registered Member

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    Is there suppose to be something under the ac compressor? There's what looks to me a mount, but there's nothing there. Thanks for the help.

    Oh ya, it's an 89 with serpetine belt.

    edit: Looks like there's no smog pump, i'm assumung there should be one right?
     
  5. inscape

    inscape Registered Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    after letting it warm up for a few mins white smoke comes from the tail pipe.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    What does the exhaust smell like. Regular exhaust fumes, antifreeze, or more like real strong exhaust or gas.

    Regular smell would mean it's probably condensation, good. But that usually goes away once truck is warm.
    Antifreeze would me head problems, bad.
    Strong exhaust or gas would mean too rich, bad.

    Do you get black smoke at all?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    It smells bad, like exhaust but stronger. It doesn't smoke black, just white. Also the heatpipe or whatever it's called that goes from the exhaust manifold to intake is missing, so there's a whole in the manifold.
     
  6. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    A motor will make some steam for a few minites after a cold start,but no water vapor shold be visible after 5 or ten minites unless you do have a head gasket leaking--if you are going to smog test it,have the guy put the "sniffer"over the radiator cap opening after carefully removing it(it might be under a lot of pressure if the gasket is leaking,so be very cautious)and if you have any head gasket leaks it will show up as hydrocarbons on the tester. The U-joints may have "inside"clips or they could be the outer clip style and missing--not a big deal as u-joints are fairly cheap and easy to replace,if the yokes are damaged it can get costly though. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Oh yeah--if its an automatic the modulator valve can fail and allow dextron to get sucked into the motor,making a white smoke--and if the master cylinder leaks into the brake booster,brake fluid can get sucked in and burn and make white smoke too--this usually happens after starting when it sat for awhile,like overnight--valve stem seals can do the same thing,but the smoke will be blue if its oil burning from bad seals or valve guides. See if there's any tranny fluid in the modulator's vaccuum hose,and pop the cap off the master cylinder and see if the resivouir nearest the power booster is low or empty--if so its a good bet the master cylinder has leaked brake fluid into the booster. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  7. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Also the heatpipe or whatever it's called that goes from the exhaust manifold to intake is missing, so there's a whole in the manifold.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Go take another look...that heat pipe doesn't funnel exhaust up to the intake, just air that has been warmed up by the exhaust manifold. If there was a hole there it'd be deafening loud under the hood.

    Rene
     
  8. mrk5

    mrk5 The Sticker Guy Moderator Vendor GMOTM Winner Author

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    Yeah. I just picks up heat through convection. Doesn't hurt any thing as far as the exhaust manifolds are concerned.

    [ QUOTE ]
    It smells bad, like exhaust but stronger. It doesn't smoke black, just white.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Sounds like it is rich. Probably need to check carb adjustment.

    How does it run? Check to make sure the choke is pulling all the way off.
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Assuming this is WA state, and you live in one of the counties where we are tested, I'd suggest having it smogged before purchase.

    If I'm not mistaken, once you purchase the vehicle, to get the new tabs, they will FORCE you to go through an emissions test.

    No visual, but if it fails, you could easily be into the $100's of dollars to get it up to par, which if you still want the vehicle, is a good bargaining tool.
     
  10. backcountry

    backcountry 1/2 ton status

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    It is excessive water. Remove radiator cap and check level and color.

    You need to perform a leakdown test on the motor. You can purchase one or make one. A compression tester will work as long as you remove the valve stem inside the fitting to allow air through.

    You will need a compressor. Remove a spark plug (one at a time) and screw fitting onto spark pulg hole. (make sure cylinder you are checking is at top dead center) Hook other end to the compressor hose and charge cylinder with air while someone else listenes for leaks from the carburator, exhaust, bubbles in your radiator and your oil dip stick tube.

    Make sure you do all cylinders. You will have slight leakage, however once you check them all you will know instantly by the sound difference. Make sure to place each cylinder you test at top dead center.

    I would think seriously about purchasing this vehicle. You will be making payments while this vehicle sits while you get it smogged/repaired etc.

    Good luck!
     
  11. inscape

    inscape Registered Member

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    Thanks for all of the suggestions. It did stop smoking after a while, I revved up and it was spitting out water or some liquid. It's been sitting for soo many months and the guy at the fealership says it happens with most of their cars because they use the gas with 10% ethanol. Whether it was the gas or water in the pipe it looks good.

    I got it smogged and it failed so I went back to the dealership. Went accross the street to a mechanic, replaced the O2 sensor (looked real bad), fixed the idle (was idling too low) and sprayed some carb cleaner in the throttle body. He also checked for vacuume leaks by spraying it on the hoses and looking for bubbles. There was a lot of white smoke for a min after spraying that stuff. Then they checked the smog levels there and they were a lot better. Tomorrow I'm taking it back to get smogged before my dad signs the papers.

    They had the a/c recharged, blows nice and cold now. They're going to replace the u joint, found out it's a pressed in joint, I only knew about the ones that have the clips on the outside. They're also going to get rear seatbelts for it.

    The only other things that are bad is:
    serpetine belt has cracks on the inside
    bad diaghram? on vent cap on coolant overflow tank, a few drops of coolant come out while running it
    cracked sliding rear window

    Oh, and it didn't come with a smog pump. I just figured since there was a place for it, it came with one.
     

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