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R&P install planned..I need some help.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 8_YOUR_H2, Feb 8, 2002.

  1. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I am wrapping things up on the old blazer. Just need to do the axles and its done (till next month when I get another bright idea). I called around and the cheapest gear install is $400...yep, $400!! Needless to say, I am doing this myself. I just have a few details I need worked out.

    1. When checking backlash, where is the tip of the dial indicator placed on the tooth of the the ring gear? Do you have the pinion tooth resting on the coast side them measure the distance to the drive side?

    2. On a 14FF I assume the shims are placed between the pinion carrier and the case its self..am I right?

    3 What is carrier bearing preload and how is it adjusted?

    Also one more thing. The front D44 had no shims between the carrier and the tubes, just the rubber seals...are there supposed to be shims in the front.

    Oh yeah...With the crush sleeve on a 14FF do you just torque it to the specs and leave it or do you back it off alittle?

    Any tips, info, personal experiences or anything like that will be so helpfull!!

    Brent
     
  2. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    Maybe just help with #'s 1 and 3....anybody?

    I have already searched for this info with no luck

    Brent
     
  3. turd73

    turd73 Registered Member

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    To check backlash, just put the dial guage on the tip of the ring gear teeth. Measure the distance between hitting the drive and the coast side. 6-12 .001 is okay. Crush the sleeve till you get to about 25 inch lbs of pressure to turn the pinion nut. Too much or too little will wear bearings. The 44 has the shims under the bearings. Pop one off and look.

    73 Blazer
    Bought for $700
     
  4. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    thanks turd, your the brownest.
     
  5. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Just got done rebuilding my 14 FF last week.

    2. The shims for the pinion depth go between the housing and the pinion retainer (the part that bolts on to the housing).

    3. The carrier bearing preload on the 14FF is adjusted by the collars that screw in and out on each side of the carrier (these also adjust backlash), according to the instructions from Randy's Ring and Pinion (you can get them online at www.ring-pinion.com), say to tighten them as much as possible......which probably isn't a huge torque value because you can only use something like a small screwdriver to tighten up the collars.
    The preload on the Dana 44 is adjusted by shims.

    The carrier shims for the Dana 44 are between the pressed on bearings and carrier. I have seen people use "dummy" bearings (the inside diameter is slightly bigger so they don't have to be pressed on and off during setup) when setting these up since you will probably need to add and remove shims to get it right.

    For the crush sleeve / pinion bearing preload, it is tightened until the specified rotating torque is achieved (20-35 in-lbs.). You tighten the pinion nut until it takes that much torque to rotate the pinion (of course, this is without the carrier and ring gear installed. The instructions stated it usually takes somewhere between 300-400 ft-lbs. of torque to tighten the pinion nut to achieve this rotating torque. On mine, it took right between 400 and 405 ft-lbs..............I used a 3' long, 3/4" drive torque wrench and a 24" pipe wrench to hold the yoke when tightening the pinion, and a 3/8" drive beam-type torque wrench to check the rotating torque.
     

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