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r12 to 134a--- How much 134a in a 90 k5.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bluboti, Jul 10, 2003.

  1. bluboti

    bluboti Registered Member

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    west virginia --yes-us
    Anyone?
     
  2. k5blazerus

    k5blazerus 1/2 ton status

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    There should be a A/C sticker on the A/C dryer or around it. It should tell you how much the system holds. I am guessing around 2.25 lbs of 134a.
    Colin
     
  3. Diesel Dan

    Diesel Dan 1/2 ton status

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    How are you going about converting the system?
    I wouldn't recommend those conversion in a can kits that say you don't have to flush the system. My dad followed the kits instructions, now his a/c is screwed up. Compressor is acting like the oils jelled up.

    When/if I convert my suburban I'll replace the accumulator, orifice tubes, drain the compressor(replace if doing motor swap) and flush the lines. Right now I can still get R-12 so I'll hold off for a while.
     
  4. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Why are you converting?? My 89 blows colder air than my 02??
     
  5. 2BLAZERS

    2BLAZERS 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    My 91 blazers takes 3 pounds of r12. This year I went to Jiffy Lube with a $10 dollar off coupon to get it recharged. First A/C servcie in 4 years. It only cost me $135 for service including 1 and a half pounds of r12. The dealer wanted $950 to convert but I talked to lots of people who have said do not convert. r12 is cooler when Idiling in traffic. So I figured I just saved $815 by staying with r12.
     
  6. azblazor

    azblazor 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    If it's working somewhat on R12 - then use the conversion kit ( $30 = 3 can of stop leak/R134A, charge hose, sticker and fittings), I have and it's colder on R134A then it was with R12 and a crappy charge. (last conversion - 1989 G20 Chevy van with dual air). You do have to evacuate the system real well with a vacuum pump (or have it done). If your system is broke then open system, flush, replace dryer/orfice and broke parts, reassemble, apply vacuum , charge with R134A (85% of old R12 charge). Use.

    The advice to replace hoses and o-rings etc is OLD. R134A has been found to not be that big of a deal as far as leaking, that it was considered to be back when R12 was restricted and manufacturing stopped (R134A is a smaller molecule). There is still a lot of old info floating around on the internet and stuck in peoples minds. My opinion.

    FWIW I live in Arizona, I have about 10 vehicles that I keep the AC working in (between my wife and I and our 6 kids).

    I used to work on my own AC but after the R12 fiasco, I started using mechanics. I read and believed a lot of the information put out by people who make their living off of you not being confident enough to work on your own AC. After thousands of dollars and self serving BS, I got tired of dealing with mechanics and R12. I got some information, manuals, some gages and a vacuum pump, and a case of R134A. I don't half to wait on appointments or mechanics again. If my AC breaks - I fix it, that night when its cool and save a bunch of money.
     
  7. Catman

    Catman Registered Member

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    My 90 K5 was converted when I got it but the system had a leak. We flushed it twice, put in a new accumulator and compressor, used the proper oil and three pounds of R134 and it still is only marginally cool. In that it will be 108 degrees today, that sucks. Let me know if you have better luck. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     

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