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R12 to R134 conversion?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Steve88, Mar 28, 2000.

  1. Steve88

    Steve88 1/2 ton status

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    That post on converting an a/c compressor to an air-pump prompted me to ask this one on air-conditioning:

    Anyone convert their R12 to R134? Are they going to do away with R12? Or is this nothing to worry about? If you did convert is it a do-it-yourselfer? Cost? Materials?

    Hey in AZ a/c is the law! For those in the cooler climates - it's as important as heat in the sub-zero winter. Right Zonies?!

    <font color=red>Steve88</font color=red>[​IMG]
    88K5 Silverado
    thunderdog@metallica.com
     
  2. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    I haven't done anything yet, but I've talked to some guys(experts) that say don't convert. Unless you change everything, you'll eventually have problems and conversions don't cool as well. I'm sure you want the best cooling you can get in AZ....me too in humid Texas! Here is a site, with links to more, that will give you more info than you can ever use on A/C systems and "new" R12 substitutes:http://www.autofrost.com/

    Michael [​IMG] http://jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm
     
  3. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    Well folks here goes again....opening up the firing lines...
    I did convert to 134. I had the 86 filled with R-12 only to find out I suddenly had a leak after paying 44.00 a pound
    (I guess some pounds ARE cheaper then others) The guy would not refill it, Federal law he said. So I had to buy new condenser coil, $220.00, and replaced the bad one. While I was at it I replaced all the orings and a small inline filter thing he told me to replace anyway. When done he pulled a vaccume on it and it held, instead of going back to R-12, I went and bought the convert kit for $40.00 and filled it with 134. And I am proud to say it works just as well as the R-12 did, and it is a heckuva lot cheaper to fill if you need to.
    Because of the nrew law and the ozone stuff, R-12 is no longer being manufactured, what is being used now is just what is left over. I would say if faced with the situation I would change over to 134 and be done with it. Unless you would rather pay $50.00 a pound or get 134 for a buck a can.

    <font color=green>Eagle86K5[​IMG]

    <font color=red>Only guy I know that can get out of line in a one car funeral
     
  4. cityfarmer2

    cityfarmer2 Guest

    R-134 work with the stuff every day and all the pilots do is complain that it won't cool the cockpit enough. Sometimes it gets up to 120 degrees in there. The rate in our planes is about a 12 degree temparture decrease with 134 and a 22 degree decrease with R-12. Quite a difference from my point of view. But we caused it all the tired old refrigerators just thrown out with out recovering the coolant, or all those shade tree types that said heck I can service my own airconditioner in the old buick with the wrong cheap equipment to fill up that high pressure leaking system instead of forking out that 50.00 dollars to get it done right by certified and properly trained mechanics. So the only people we have to blame is ourselves. It's either that or buy stock in sun screen. For cars or trucks though R-134 should keep it comfortable long as you don't have any leaks. If you don't feel cool air coming out you need to get the leak fixed. Leaving a leaking system not only will cause loss of refrigerant but will allow moisture to enter your system and cause seals to go bad and internally corrode those expensive items in the system like evaporators and compressors. I know what I'm talking about here just converted eight Kingairs from R-12 to R-134 what fun.. Thanks for the platform. Gary...
     
  5. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    Kingair ...nice aircraft. You doing this on older piston or turbo? I flew a couple of them years ago out of hawaii while in the marines. I got an old Warrior now that I just converted over. Not a nice job and definatly not cheap on an aircraft. But for the ole blazer it works just fine.

    So you like the web address I sent you huh??

    <font color=green>Eagle86K5[​IMG]

    <font color=red>Only guy I know that can get out of line in a one car funeral
     
  6. jmpd

    jmpd 1/2 ton status

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    I converted my system over last summer. I had my buddy who does home A/C vacuum the system. We also replaced the R-12 with 134 and also changed the accumulator, o-rings, filter etc... My A/C never really cooled down my truck all that well. My truck is all Black, no crome except bumpers.

    Go for it, It is cheaper
     
  7. OLDSTEEL

    OLDSTEEL 1/2 ton status

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    Steve, the average person can not go out and buy R-12, you must have the EPA certification in order to buy it. If you noticed the price to have AC work done has gone up conciderably in the past few years, thats because the have limited the production of Ozone Depleting Substances (ODS) such as R-12 & R-22 and stopped producing others like Halon 1301 & Halon 1211. In the near future the production of all ODS will stop. This all came about after the Montreal Protocal was passed. This protocal states that each nations that signed it will stop all production of ODS. R-134 does not fall in that catigory so it is the only alternative we are left with. If you hold on to your R-12 vehicles you will eventualy be forced to switch R-134, I figure this will be within the next 15 years.

    74 K5

    Leave it like you found it, or better!
     
  8. 6.2 man

    6.2 man 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I got a card to buy R12 for work and myself . I have been told a R134 conversion will work but the cooling is not as good as R12 . I think it cools only a few degrees less than R12 . Not noticable but the system must be vacuumed out completely . I was lucky and found a guy who stockpiled it before the ban (and no I don't have any to spare ) I'm greedy . At one time there was talk of purchasing R12 form wrecking yards . They have evauate the system before removing parts . Again you need a card . I know you can buy R134 anywhere for about $20.00 a can .
     
  9. K5 NUTT

    K5 NUTT 1/2 ton status

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    Rodger that Steve88...for us Zonies a properly functioning a/c system is a must! Yes you must have a certification card to purchase R-12!!! And it is very pricy these days...but i'm glad i had the presence of mind to totally rebuild my a/c system a few years back so i could enjoy the frosty R-12 a while longer...lol. Actually i was up at my friends parts store last week gettin the Chalet's wheels aligned and saw a new product out to help out with the R-134a blues...or lack of...lol. It is a variable rate orifice tube they have came up with...going to buy one here soon as i think the Chalet's a/c has given up the ghost....wonderful. The trick to makin the R-134a work well is airflow...all Freightliner tractors were changed over to R-134a by mid 93 so i have a few years of messin with it under my belt...with your normal OTR truck the condensor is shall i say a wee bit on the big side...plus it takes approx. 15 HP to spin the Horton clutch fan...so there's quite a bit of air ava to cool that condensor down....a mid 70's K5...and up into 91 was the same o same o...condensor was sized right however the airflow takes a drastic drop when you have to sit thru 3 traffic lights to get thru Grand Ave on a AZ 115 degree summer day (Zonie Joke)...anyways with the higher operating psi's of R-134a a strategically placed helper fan placed in front of the condensor will help keep the head pressures down even if you get stuck at the dreaded Grand Ave. Also making sure your thermostatic clutch fan is working will help out and avoid the meltdown...lol. A couple K5 tricks i have learned to help keep the a/c cooler is to get the neoprene boot from your local GM dealer that they used to cover the accumulators on G and P vans and late model pickups and burbans...heat created under the hood actually boils the refriderant in the accumulator!!! Also you can use that silver lookin tape (not duct tape) to cover the outside of the evap box nearest the engine.... another helper outer is to buy a vacum operated heater valve and tee in vacum from your fresh air door pot...when you go to max air it will close the door to recirc and shut off any hot H2O from getting into your heater core...i know hot water is there for a reason...ie...keeps the evap from freezing up...but out heer in AZ...i don't think thats gonna happen!!! Okay...time to climb down off the soap box...see what ya did Steve88....lol.

    AZBLAZER

    1979 K5
    1976 K5 Chalet
    1972 K10 Suburban
     
  10. Steve88

    Steve88 1/2 ton status

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    Well it's still blowing "cool" air so far. Haven't owned it in the summer months so I don't know how long or how cool I can expect out of it. Just figured if I did have to service it I'd do the conversion while at it (if the $$ are right)

    <font color=red>Steve88</font color=red>[​IMG]
    88K5 Silverado
    thunderdog@metallica.com
     
  11. K5 NUTT

    K5 NUTT 1/2 ton status

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    A conversion kit with all the fittings- orings and the new PAG oil is about $30...R-134a runs about $6 a can at Pep Boys....definately cheaper..or you can try Freeze 12...forget what that costs per can but you can get it at APAK.


    AZBLAZER

    1979 K5
    1976 K5 Chalet
    1972 K10 Suburban
     

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