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Radiator question.. what model or part number do I need... for a

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by rocko, Jun 24, 2004.

  1. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

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    89k5, no oil cooler, has tranny cooler lines.. standard lines running from trans to the right side of radiator.
    Did the 89 use a 3 row or 4 row?
    Who sells them for a good price and a good manufacturer?
    Need one quick.. my radiator developed an nice leak...
    Figures.. fix one problem, another develops..
    Thanks in advance. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Ask for a radiator for a 91 Suburban with a 350, automatic trans, and maximum cooling.

    You'll need new upper brackets to mount it that you can get from someone on here or www.chevyduty.com or www.lmctruck.com or I'm sure there are others (dealer has them too). Get new rubber mounts as well.

    That will be a monsterous 4 core that will fit your rig just nicely.
     
  3. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Any local radiator shops near ya ??? I've had local radiator shops build custom radiators for me befor. Usely cheaper them buying a mail order one, or parts stores.
     
  4. RAY

    RAY 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Rocko,
    I went through www.radiator.com and got one for my '84 with a 350, tranny cooler lines and no oil cooler for $140 with lifetime warranty. They ship pretty quick. Hope this helps?

    Ray
     
  5. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I think I told Schucks 1986 1 ton, 350, AC, manual trans (replacement is for auto trans /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif) and I picked it up for about 150.

    Copper/Brass 3 core. Probably not as hot as down there, so I guess my results can be much different, but the fans (electrics) haven't come on once hot rodding the truck around the neighborhood in 1st gear.

    Watched it climb up to 220 idling this afternoon, to prove the fan setup works, and once the fan (primary only) came on, the needle on the gauge moved fast enough to see. It lost 20* in less than 2 minutes I'd speculate.

    Obviously AC is also going to affect cooling efficiency, but I'm a firm believer that you can get away with "less" if your radiator is in good shape. Kind of hard to tell for sure what will work, and I'd hate for you to get something too small, but those huge 4 cores are comparatively rare, so GM didn't think them necessary fro all but the most extreme applications...I think they add unnecessary expense (both in acquisition and parts needing changed) but that is me.

    We'll see if I say the same thing when I'm in AZ in August /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    4 cores come in more than you think. If ya ever go to the auto parts store have them pull out the radiator catalog and hand it to you. Spout off applications and get yourself some part numbers. There is often an illistrated guide that tells you where and what size each fitting is as well as how many cores it has.

    I sold one to a guy last week for his 91 sub. He had AC but no maxiumum cooling so he didn't have a 4 core factory.

    I sold him the 4 core but he brought it back because the upper brackets wouldn't hold it in.

    If you swap the upper brackets it will bolt in like it was made to be there.

    I could get you the part number tomorrow if you need it, i think it was an RDR 43-3190 through us.

    That was a 1991 R1500 Sub, auto, ac, with max cooling.
     
  7. Mudbug1979

    Mudbug1979 1/2 ton status

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    I work at an accessorie store and I just ordered one for me that was for a 79, 400, ac, max cool, and I had the option for a 3 or 4 core. I opted for the 4 and have been happy ever since. It usually takes about 30min to get to work some mornings with traffic and It barely gets to 190 with a 180* thermo. Been wheeling pretty hard latley gumming it all up with mud and Never got hotter than 195*. Fit my brackets perfectly.
     
  8. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

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    My radiator is a 3 row.. I spoke with Radiator.com and they quoted me a price of OEM 4 row for $229.00 or stock replacement aftermarket for $159.00
    Which one should I go with?
    I was told by one of the salespeople at Raditor.com that I didn't need to change the upper brackets.. the raditor is designed to drop right in.. w/ no modifcations.

    Thanks
     
  9. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

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    What is the part number(s) for the 4 row radiator upper
    support brackets? and what part stores sell them? autozone? advanced? o'reilly's?
    Thanks in advance..
     
  10. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

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    Ray... how have you been? long time no see... what's new and exciting in your life? still in the Austin area?
     
  11. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Check out local radiator shops and auto parts stores as well. Some of them come VERY close to the prices on the internet, sell quality stuff, and are just down the street if there is a problem. I checked on a 4-core for my 'burb last summer and the local Modine dealer said that Modine doesn't make a 4-core for them any longer. Instead they sell a 3-core that they call the "Heat Buster" that has more cooling fins per inch. It's supposed to cool as well as an old style 4-core.
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Someone I know and trust told me that he JUST (like 3 days ago) replaced a radiator in a 1990 Suburban. Went to the auto store (I'm sure I can find out which) and walked out with a drop in plastic/aluminum radiator, for a "normal" price. As in, this radiator was designed for that application, not something that he found that was a close enough fit.

    Not completely sold on the plastic/aluminum radiators in our trucks, but the advantages in cooling are certainly there. If you can get one with a long warranty, even better.
     
  13. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    The plastic/aluminum radiators do an awesome job of cooling! The only problem I've found is that at around 10 years/120K miles the plastic side tank splits right where the hot water coming from the engine splashes against it. It splits directly in front of the upper hose connection. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif On the '91 S-Jimmy I got a complete new radiator (with tranny and engine oil coolers!) for a measly $140 (vs. $100 to repair the old one). But on the '94 Suburban I spent $120 to have it rodded, boiled, and a new side tank installed since the cheapest I could find a radiator for it was around $350. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif I watched the guy fix it and we were both amazed at how clean it was inside. Only the lower 3 or 4 tubes had some crud accumulated in them. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     

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