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radiator repair?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bigbadchev84, Jan 21, 2006.

  1. bigbadchev84

    bigbadchev84 1/2 ton status

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    my radiator neck where the top hose connects to the tank cracked, i put my knee on it while installing wire looms on my wires, what is the best/easiest/cheapest way to fix this thing? as soon as it is fixed it is going in the paper to be sold so help me quick!!!!
     
  2. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    I've used JB Weld before with good success. :D

    Rick
     
  3. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Those I can sweat on no problem with a propane torch and solder .

    I cannot seem to solder up the damn seam eak in my original 3 core though :doah:
     
  4. jk3078

    jk3078 1/2 ton status

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    I have also used JB Weld. Did you know they make a JB Quick? 4 hour set up time,its great. The trick is getting the surface very clean, dry and then lightly scuff or sand the "weld" area. I did this 2 or 3 years ago on my C20 and its still holding. O and the out side temp must be warm enough for proper set up.
     
  5. sunnyc123abc

    sunnyc123abc 1/2 ton status

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    I used quicksteel.
     
  6. bigbadchev84

    bigbadchev84 1/2 ton status

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    what kind of solder do i use? do i just clean the area with emery cloth??
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    solder is best..

    I'd trust a soldered repair.."Epoxy" like J.B. Weld,etc,sometimes works well,but I'd always be wondering which "bad time" it would pick to fail on me,and leave me stranded..

    Solder called "50/50" is best for radiators.."60/40" solder will work too..has a bit more tin,and a slightly higher melting point..I use liquid flux bought at a plumbing supply or hardware store,not the usual "paste" they use on copper tubing in house plumbimg(though it does work fairly well,its easier to solder with the liquid stuff,it seems to clean the metal better)..I've even soldered galvanized pails with liquid flux successfully..never could with any other stuff I tried..steel is hard to solder,even when its galvanized..

    I use a small wire brush on a drill to clean the radiator down to bright shiny brass or copper,a dremel tool works well too,or hand sanding with emery cloth or sandpaper works too..sandblasting works great,but you have to be very careful..brass dissapears FAST under a sandblaster!..

    Got to be very careful not to heat up the "neck" too long,or you'll UN solder the straps holding the tanks on,or the cooling tubes!..it helps to heat mostly the radiator and not the neck itself..It would be best to take the radiator right out,and lay it on the ground..I've soldered a few necks while they were still bolted in..but it wasn't pretty or easy!..and I'm suprised they held,and didn't leak or crack again later..

    I'd get some practice on a scrap radiator first..otherwise,yours might be the "scrap" one!..its a bit tricky,learning to solder one..a new one can be had for about 100 bucks now,unless its a 4 core 454 or diesel one..:crazy:
     

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