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Ran into a problem

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Yukon Jack, May 3, 2004.

  1. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    As many of you know, I am in the middle of a big project that started out with swapping out my 307 small block for a big block. All was going seemingly well. Was tackling the big block fitment issues with a 2" body lift. My truck has been at the paint shop for a while and this weekend they started placing the body on the frame only to find out that I still have a big problem with the engine hitting the firewall. More than likely I will deal with this problem by moving the engine forward about 1 1/2". The bright side is the paint on the truck is looking great and it will all be worth it in the end.

    My other two options are to cut and modify the firewall or add a larger body lift. Don't really want to do either of those options but I haven't made up my mind completely yet.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Doh!! /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

    Sorry to hear about that Mark! I guess some bumps in the road are to be expected when doing custom work. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif

    By moving the engine forward, your front shaft will need to me a bit shorter.....which isn't necessarily a good thing. Did you have the front shaft lengthened when you installed the lift?

    The nice painted cab and color look awesome!! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  3. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    When I did the initial 4" lift I had to have the front driveshaft lengthened, then when installed found out I needed a CV joint added so they had to go back and do that. I didn't lengthen it more when I went to a 6" lift. Now the front springs are netting 7" of lift so in reality I might get by with out having to have it shortened. The rear driveshaft has not been modified.

    I have passed info back and forth with Tennman from the 67-72 board and he did a 3" lift and massaged the passenger side of the firewall to get his 502 to fit. He used the same valve covers that I am using.

    I might give some consideration to going with a slightly higher body lift to see if I can get by. I hate to go too high with a body lift but I might get the clearance needed if I did a 3 1/2" body lift. That would be a lot easier and less time consuming then moving the drivetrain forward 1 1/2".

    I'm just really undecided on how to proceed. I like to get suggestions and opinions when I am deciding on an issue. So, let me hear your thoughts on moving the drivetrain forward 1 1/2" as opposed to having a buddy fab me up 3 1/2" aluminum body pucks.

    If I did move the drivetrain forward here are the issues I must deal with:

    1. Will have to modify frame more for header clearance definitely on the passenger side, maybe on the driver side.

    2. Might loose enough clearance that I would have to run an electric fan. Living in Kansas, it gets pretty hot in the summer. Would prefer to stay with the engine driven fan.

    3. Lower crank pulley would be getting pretty close to the front most crossmember.

    4. Might have to modify both driveshafts.

    5. Would have to pull the engine crossmember out and make some modifications to get it to move forward enough.

    6. I will have to do all this at the body shop rather than my own shop.

    A plus would be I would gain some room for my exhaust - it will be tight right now getting it bent from the header collector to pass over t/c.

    Body lift mods would require me to probably need to lengthen steering column shaft. Most other problems I am already going to have to deal with as I was set to use a 2" body lift anyway.
     
  4. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Man! I hope you get it worked out!
    You sure you don't want to beat the piss out of the firewall? Then maby talk the body guy into spraying some more color to hide your pounding marks? /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
    Good Luck
     
  5. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Wow....when you list it all out like that, I would lean for a bit of firewall massaging. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
     
  6. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    Well, me and a cut-off wheel got intimate and made the big block fit. Now the body guy has to do some magic to make it look better! The big block is sitting in the factory small block location. Had to increase the body lift to make this work. In the future I will move the engine forward and take the body lift back to 2" - but I just couldn't tackle that right now - have to get the truck out of the body shop and home.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    Damn, those look like big cuts! Why is the BBC not fitting? I thought you could order these trucks with a BBC from the factory... /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  8. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Damn, those look like big cuts! Why is the BBC not fitting? I thought you could order these trucks with a BBC from the factory... /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    You could......as long as it was 2wd. No 67-72 4X4 came with a BB. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  9. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    Ah, yeah, I guess that's a problem then... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  10. ZZ4x4

    ZZ4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Sweet! Now you can adjust your timing from inside the cab while your driving! /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
     
  11. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    Hmmm, ya know, plexiglass would allow for a pimpin' view of the engine!
     
  12. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Hmmm, ya know, plexiglass would allow for a pimpin' view of the engine!

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Now thats the spirt YJ! Keep it positive! I'm sure it will all work out! Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  13. TONYP

    TONYP 1/2 ton status

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    nice... /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif
    after you put the flooring and carpet back in hopefully you won't see it...
     
  14. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    Now that I think of it, it will be covered more by that insulation stuff that goes up front rather than the carpet.

    I'm considering trying to modify the rod throttle assembly to the cable style.

    Anyone have a pic of the firewall from the inside showing me how the cable style gas pedal mounts/goes through the firewall?
     
  15. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I don't but a I can take a pick of mine... /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  16. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    That would be great. I have a complete cable setup and now is probably an excellent time to get it on the cab! I don't know if there is anything worth seeing on engine side of the firewall, but if so, pics there would be helpful too. As you are at it, maybe pics of how the linkage hooks to carb to save me from finding a pic like that when it is time to hook up. Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  17. arq

    arq 1/2 ton status

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    how difficult would it hav been to move the cab back??

    ARQ.
     
  18. Yukon Jack

    Yukon Jack 1/2 ton status

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    We considered that but the front radiator mounting location is directly in front of the power steering gear box. Couldn't think of a way to attach with it there.
     
  19. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Ok I'll do my best to get this done tonight.
    I have no carb or engine for that matter but I will take a pick of both sides, including the end that connects to the carb /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  20. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    OK YJ here are some pics...hope this helps
    [​IMG]
    Engine bay, the bracket on the throttle cable is the one that bolts to the base of the carb and the cable snaps on the linkage ball.
    [​IMG]
    This is the inside, I used a cable tie to tighten up the throttle cable. You can see I pulled the cable and then zippped it tight.
    [​IMG]
    Just a shot of the pedels...
     

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