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Ratio ? from serial number

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ftn96, Jul 27, 2001.

  1. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Im going to get a 14 bolt tomorrow and the guy doesn't know the ratio, so he posted this serial number that is on the ring gear. Would you all say that this is a 4.10 ratio or what?

    2GM 3977334 10 41 12 7E

    I pay ya to work it not jerk it![​IMG]
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  2. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

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    10 and 41 = 4.10 ratio!!

    ken
     
  3. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Well, Ken I knew that but I wasn't sure if that 41 and that 10 in the serial number was in fact that.

    I pay ya to work it not jerk it![​IMG]
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  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Are ya sure its not 41 and 12? 3.42's were available...[​IMG]

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  5. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I believe the last 2 sets of numbers are the month and year. 12 7E, I believe its December, but not sure of the 7E. It could be '77, but I don't know what the 'E' stands for. I still think this rear has 4.10 gears.

    <font color=blue>Daddy told me while learning to pee......"if you shake it more than twice, then you are playing with it!!!"</font color=blue>
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I just wanted to know which set of numbers was the pinion count...3.42's would suck awfully bad!
    Thanks Wes!

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  7. outlaw612

    outlaw612 1/2 ton status

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    Imake OEM hitches and bumpers, and if our date code is the same, 12 7E would be...
    May 12, 1977

    12=date
    7=year
    e= Month(a=jan...b=Feb...ect)
     
  8. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Well, we will know for sure tomorrow. I have it setting in the garage now. I have some other questions though. I cant really see inside this carrier that is in it to see all the govenors that everyone says is in a Gov-lock. IT almost looks completely inclosed. It didn't come with the ubolt plates. So I need to get some of those. WEs you got any?

    Also, I noticed to the outside of the carrier bearing caps there are some what look to be spacer shims or some sorta adjustment for backlash. And then it has a clip that sticks out of the top 2 holes and then that raps around the a bolt in the carrier bearing cap. What is all this? I knew it was going to be different from my 10 bolt. I just need to get the names and functions of these parts.

    Wes, I cant set up a 10 botl rear end. Can you tell me how much is different with the 14 FF's. Any additonal info any of you have will be great!.

    I'll let you all know the guts tomorrow.

    I pay ya to work it not jerk it![​IMG]
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  9. riz

    riz 3/4 ton status

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    <font color=purple> Let us know what you find out, It would be interesting to know exactly what the #'s will tell us !

    L8r,
    . Riz . <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/rizmonkey>www.geocities.com/rizmonkey</a>
     
  10. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I might have re-used my 1/2 ton u-bolt plates, its been a while since I did the swap.

    The 14 bolt FF does not use side shims at all, the 'rings' on either side of the carrier are adjusters. The carrier is held in by the big main caps but adjusted side to side by those rings. The little two pronged claw just holds the adjusters in postion after they've been set.

    To remove the carrier you would remove the axles first, remove the main caps and mark the adjusters with a scribe. Once there is a scribe mark on the adjuster and the case you'll be able to put the adjuster back exactly where it should be later. Remove the two pronged adjuster holders. I then put down a good size piece of plywood under the diff...once the adjusters are backed off its possible that you may drop the carrier. I only loosened one adjuster, about 2 turns and the carrier almost fell out. At this point you now have the carrier out and you can go even further and split the carrier for inspection.
    Find a nice clean spot on a bench and put down some rags and remove the bolts holding the ring gear on. These bolts also hold the two halfs of the carrier together. A good dead blow hammer or soft faced hammer will help you separate the two halves. Once the carrier is split apart you'll see either a bunch of cuckoo clock parts or 4 spider gears on a cross. The 4 spiders on a cross is the open diff.

    The actual set-up for new gears would be another thing. Above is just what i did to remove my carrier and weld it up. Once I had it apart I welded the spiders and reassembled it. Then I put the carrier back together and stuffed it back in the diff. I then reset the side adjusters back to the scribe marks, etc...

    For a better description of the inner guts of the 14 bolt with good pictures check out Shawn Spicklers article on installing a Detroit Locker in a 14 Bolt FF on Off-road.com. After reading that article I had the confidence to get medievel on my 14 bolt...[​IMG]

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  11. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    KEWL!!!![​IMG]

    I pay ya to work it not jerk it![​IMG]
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