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REAR AXLE OPINONS??

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by blazen91, Sep 22, 2000.

  1. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    I am asking for opinons on rear axles-12 bolt or 14 bolt sf 6lug? If given the choose, which one would you suggest? And what would you pay for either one? I've thought about going 14ff, but I kinda' like my 6lugs!! THANKS
    blazen91
     
  2. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

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    You like those dainty little 7/16" lug studs, huh? 14 bolt FF all the way, hands down. But if you're still faint of heart, and prefer 6 tiny 7/16" studs to hold on your 100 pound tire/wheel combo, then the next best thing is a 14 bolt SF, at least those have 1/2" studs!!!

    ken
     
  3. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    I've already done 1/2in. lugs in the front and will be doing the rear after I decide on what I want back there, but I respect your input.
    blazen91
     
  4. Andreas

    Andreas 1/2 ton status

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    It depends a little bit on what kind of wheelin´ you do. With the 14 bolt SF you loose some groundclearance, making it necessary to go up 4" in tiresize if you want it back. Other than that the 14 bolt SF is a better axle than the 12 bolt, but the 12 bolt is not bad a bad axle at all.

    Andreas

    406cui of pure sh*t[​IMG]
     
  5. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    I can get a 12 bolt,14 bolt sf, or 14 bolt ff for $200-$250 from a guy I know of. Are these prices good? And would it be possible to use a wheel spacer to go from 8lug to 6 on the ff? I was afraid of the wheel spacer idea, because of strenght, but I see Steve and Shawn Spickler(Potent Rodent Blazer)both running them. Any input on that?
     
  6. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

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    Well, if ya just gotta keep those dainty little 6 lug studs, then run the adapters. I personally would never run a 6 lugger with over 33" tires, as I've seen so many 6 luggers break the wheel studs off when using 36"+ tires. Think I'd rather have 8, 9/16" studs holding my wheels on when blasting down the freeway at speed!!!

    ken
     
  7. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    In my opinion, I would go with the s/f 14 bolt as it should have a significant strength increase over both the 10 and 12 bolts. The 8 lug s/f 14's and be converted to 6 lug by re-drilling the bolt pattern on the axles and drums...I was quoted about $80 do this from an axle shop (Moser Engineering in Indiana).
     
  8. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    Thank you all for your input. I'm gonna bite bullet and go with the 14ff! Any one got wheels at a good price?

    blazen91
     
  9. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

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    If you want strength go with a FF 14 bolt. If you want a better than stock but not insane try a 92?-98 6 lug K1500 rear. I just got one but havent put it in yet, looks very promising though.
     
  10. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

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    Just a quick idea. When building a lifted, strong blazer someone said it's better to loose the affection for 6 lug wheels early, instead of buying expensive rims and tires that will have to go when the 8 lug appears sooner or later..

    Only way to do this is to exchange the axles early in the build.(Expensive, hard work, not always priority)
    But Performance wheels say they can make any wheel adapter/spacer.. How about getting a adapter that lets you run 8 lug wheels on the 10-12 bolt 6-lug? The adapter isn't expensive and then you can do the rims you want the first time.. Then sometime when you have done everything else and find it's time for the axle uppgrade, you will only have to think about the axels and not spring for 4 new rims/tires at the same time. The adapters should hold as well as the 6 lug do anyway, right?

    Maybe more of you are like me, and want the looks fast, and the strength to, but a litle later down the line...

    http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com
     
  11. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Only drawback to this is that that the wheel adapters will put even more stress on the 6-lug axles.

    '85 JIMMY
    '90 paint/grill/trim 5"susp 33/12.5/16.5
    Fresh 350 B&M '87 TH700
     
  12. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    I e-mailed Performance Wheel and they do not make spacers to change lug patterns. They said they feel it is unsafe.

    blazen91 Mike
     
  13. Bigd

    Bigd 1/2 ton status

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    Same responce i got when i asked about 8-lug too 6-lug.Can't remember the post but didn't someone have a way too machine the ff hubs too 6-lug.
     
  14. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

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    I really thought it could be done, that leaves drilling the extra holes yourself....

    How can it be any diffrent than the 6 lug 1,5 " spacer they sell? I dont get it.

    http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com
     
  15. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    And to everone who thinks 8 lug is the only way to go, I've done alittle research and SCORE trucks, like Ivan Stewart's Tundra, is running five 1/2" chromoly lugs, and same with many other trucks. Not to even mention Winston Cup cars. I think a truck running the Baja 1000 takes alot more abuse than we will ever give our K5's.

    blazen91
     
  16. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Actually I think our K5's have the potential to put way more torque to the wheels than either a SCORE truck or a Winston cup car.
    Do the math, 350 ft/lbs of torque X (crawl ratio)= a ton of torque. In my case my truck can generate approximately 16,700 ft/lbs at the wheel.
    SCORE trucks and Winston cup cars are almost always in high gear and at speed, and neither has a low range.
    I'll keep my 8 lugs thanks [​IMG]

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  17. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

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    Wait till you've seen a front 36"x14.50" tire/rim combo leave a 6" lifted Blazer...then you'll see what I mean about dainty little 7/16" studs!!!

    ken
     
  18. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    Nobody is arguing the dainty 7/16 stud issue!

    blazen91
     
  19. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    That's assuming you have 100% traction, which you never do.
    Under ABSOLUTE OPTIMAL conditions, figure 80% hookup.
    Yes, that included slickrock.
    -- Mike
     
  20. The problem isn't constant traction,the problem is wheel spin.When you loose traction and your tire starts sliping you get a little wheel spin,but when you get anouther bite
    your studs have to fight the wheel speed beeing sudenly stoped and the power of the motor still beeing there.
    Another problem is when you lift a tire and all the weight
    and power of your rig is on three or even two wheels!!!
    These are only a few reasons why not to keep the 6 lugs.
    Just a few thoughts


    IF IT AINT BIG IT AINT BAD!!!!!!
     

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