Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

rear axle removal

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by SHAWNSTER, Jun 4, 2004.

  1. SHAWNSTER

    SHAWNSTER 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2002
    Posts:
    211
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    DALLAS,TX
    does anyone have any tips to removing a rear end-such as what bolts to unbolt first or which ones not to take off-i am taking it out so when i find a replacement, it will already be out. thanks for any help
     
  2. 83ZZ502_Jimmy

    83ZZ502_Jimmy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2001
    Posts:
    3,103
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    1. Block front tires, Jack truck up and place on secure jackstands

    2. Remove rear wheels

    3. Unbolt driveshaft from pinion on the axle

    4. Remove differential vent tube

    5. Remove drums to disconnect parking brake cable from the backing plate

    6. Disconnect brake line and associated brackets.Do not disconnect the brakeline until you get ready to take the axle out. You do not want the line to be disconnected for too long as air and moisture will be introduced.

    7. Support axle with floor jack or similar

    8. Remove shocks from axle (tie them up if gas charged)

    9. Remove U-bolt nuts (may need impact or long breaker bar with a cheater, possibly a torch if all else fails)

    9. Remove axle.

    If I missed anything obvious, someone will correct me I'm sure /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif


    John
     
  3. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2003
    Posts:
    1,556
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bay area, CA
    [ QUOTE ]
    2. Remove rear wheels

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I wouldn't remove the wheels first. I would unbolt everything that is underneath the truck first (driveshaft, shocks, brakeline, vent tube). The brake line can be plugged with a rubber stopper so it's not leaking fluid. I don't like crawling around underneath my truck with it just supported by jackstands. I also toss the tire underneath the frame when it is on jacks, call me paranoid. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
     
  4. 83ZZ502_Jimmy

    83ZZ502_Jimmy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2001
    Posts:
    3,103
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    Paranoid /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

    Its ok.. Sounds like a plan, but I however, being a large American try to keep the crawling around under the truck to a minimum. I can reach alot of stuff from the wheelwell easier than crawling. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    John
     
  5. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2001
    Posts:
    16,217
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Mesa , Arizona USA
    Are you replacing the axle with the same type ? Me and my buddy TJ cheated when my 10 bolt came out and 12 bolt went in. We didn't crack open a single brakeline. We unbolted the backing plates, gently removed the brakes and lines from the axle , slid axle out and slid new axle in, bolted up my 10 bolt backing plates ( with brakes attached , hardline and all ) directly to the 12 bolt, even the hold downs on the tubes for hardline matched . Was cheating , but hey, it worked /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  6. 83ZZ502_Jimmy

    83ZZ502_Jimmy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2001
    Posts:
    3,103
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    That's what I normally do.. I hate bleeding brakes. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Cheating is fine when it comes to having to bleed brakes. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    John
     

Share This Page