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Rear Axle Seals

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by beefcake83, Mar 21, 2001.

  1. beefcake83

    beefcake83 1/2 ton status

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    Changing the rear axle seals... is it a straight-forward job on the K5's? Found out mine are leaking and ruined my rear brakes. If it's not one thing it's another.

    Gary Graham
    '83 GMC Jimmy 350 'Beefcake'
    Eielson AFB, Alaska
    Metallica & Mountain Dew
    http://community.webshots.com/user/beefcake83
     
  2. 91K5

    91K5 1/2 ton status

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    It's simple enough if you have the tools and patience. I had the rear end rebuilt on my '91 K5, new bearings and seals, and I watched the guys do it. Of course they are pro's, so they made it look simple. If I remember right they just took out the (4 i think) bolts on each end and pulled out the 'shafts, popped new seals in, and shoved the 'shafts back in, seemed straight forward enough to me, but that's just my .02
     
  3. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    It's messy, but not difficult. You'll need to pull your rear diff. cover off to get the the c-clips which have to come off to get the axles out. Basically take the brake drums off, take the rear diff off, remove the c-clips, remove the axles and use the ends to carefully pry out the old seals, install new seals and put it back together. If you hals high miles, it would be a good time to replace the axle bearings. They ride on the axle just inside the seals. Check the axles for worn areas and pitting. Also a good time to inspect your ring and pinion gears. Also look for pitting and abnormal wear. If you have a manual, it will explain what to look for in wear patterns. Also makes the job easier since there are pictures.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Best bet after you remove all that other stuff is to get a reverse slide hammer puller and jerk them out. HOWEVER, if they were in there like mine, LOL!!! I had to remove the carrier then get some 1" pipe from Home Depot adn slide it throught the tubes from the opposite side and use a sledge hammer to beat them out. It helps to have a helping hand to direct the pipe on the other end while you are beating.

    Just remember if you take the carrier out to remember to replace the shims and caps on the same sides they came off of and you should be ok.

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90 Jimmy 350TBI-700R4-241-33" BFGs-10 bolts w/4.10's
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  5. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ps, that was to beat the bearings out.

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90 Jimmy 350TBI-700R4-241-33" BFGs-10 bolts w/4.10's
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     

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