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Rear Blazer/Jimmy Fenders

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Nitrodrip350, Dec 18, 2003.

  1. Nitrodrip350

    Nitrodrip350 1/2 ton status

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    Well I tried searching but really have never seen a post on rear Blazer/Jimmy fenders? I have spoken to a body shop mechanic some time back and he stated that some of the fenders are bolted on and others are welded in place. I would like to know if anyone knows what the dates are for this change.

    Also I'm having a hard time finding sites that sell these, I can find them for "Chevy or GMC Trucks" but I don't think that these are the same as Blazer/Jimmy rear fenders??

    Thanks, Shane /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  2. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Try looking under quator panels. (May be spelled incorrect)
     
  3. Nitrodrip350

    Nitrodrip350 1/2 ton status

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    I have looked under just about every form/jargon on the word "Fenders" ... that isn't really the problem, I can find them but can't determine if they are for a Blazer/Jimmy or a Pick-Up Truck? I can find patch panels for rust but I had the stupid chrome strip and rust got in there so now the middle of the fender has pretty large holes in it. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif So they need replacements.

    Shane-
     
  4. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    I think that your body shop friend was slightly confused. The front edge is spot welded to the door frame and at the rear it is welded to the tailpan. It's bolted to the fenderwell, and there's an adhesive that runs along the floor edge and around the fenderwell edges.

    BTW, I've got a nice rust-free drivers side complete quarter from an '88 Blazer that could be yours for the measly sum of $150 and a short drive south on I-25. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Last time I checked, LMC gets $450 plus shipping for new Made In China rear quarters. The last price I heard from GM was $650 each. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  5. Nitrodrip350

    Nitrodrip350 1/2 ton status

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    So is it really worth replacing them? Seems to be a lot more work then I though originally! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif Can the spot welds just be ground off, or do they have to be cut off with a wheel? And $150.00 not too bad either, just need to see if I want to do this or find a full donor body ... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif I'll let ya know /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Thanks, Shane
     
  6. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Eastwood sells a special drill bit that is supposed to be pretty good at drilling out spot welds. But yeah, it's a lot of work to swap out a complete quarter.
     
  7. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    i have a pair of brand new quarters sitting downstairs. got em for, i believe $225 a piece at the Englishtown swap meet. they are the square gas tank door style, i think thats 80 to 87. 73 to 79 is the round gas cap (someone correct me if i wrong, thanks).

    pretty sure thats the only difference between the 70's and 80's, a quarter for a 75 should fit an 85 i believe, other than the gas door.

    as said, they are welded at the bottom back and up the door jam. lot easier than say some chevelle or camaro quarters... an air hammer is very helpful...

    heres what i want /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif now if i only had 6 g's to burn...

    [​IMG]
     
  8. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    On my '73 nothing on the bottom edge where the inner fender meets the bed floor is welded. The only welds are the spot welds where the rolled lip of the quater and inner fender come together.
    My '80 is how you describe.
     
  9. 88 jimmychanga

    88 jimmychanga Registered Member

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    Order an LMC Truck parts mag. I don't know the prices right off of the top of my head but whenever I need anything Blazer/Jimmy specific they always have it. You have to order the mag (it's free /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif) b/c their online catalog has only very basic parts. Just throwin' my two cents in. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Might want to consider swapping bodies. Probably equal amount of time, but I personally think that to bodywork right, it'd be more difficult to replace quarters on one of these trucks than to just get another tub.

    If your truck is like my first K5, you think it only has rust in the one spot, but once you start tearing into it, you find problems all over the tub.
     
  11. i8yrsuv

    i8yrsuv 1/2 ton status

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    To remove the spot welds my local autopaint store sells a tool that is like a really small hole saw that you center on the spot weld and drill out the top layer of sheet metal . /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  12. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    That is what Eastwood sells (what Harry was talking about).
     

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