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rear brake blew

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by grindkings, Jan 9, 2005.

  1. grindkings

    grindkings 1/2 ton status

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    My rear driverside brake blew the other day. I went to take the wheels off and the whole outside of the brake just fell off. All the internals are rusted. How do i fix this?
     
  2. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    not exactly sure if your saying the drum cracked or what... if your not leaking fluid anywhere (wheel cylinders), get a spring kit, brake shoes, and a drum if its bad or uncuttable.

    there are also a host of brake specifac tools too... the most needed being a spring remover/installer..

    a Haynes or Chilton should have a walkthru on drum brakes i would think...
     
  3. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    wheel cylidner or line or what ?

    what do you mean exactly ? what blew exactly ?

    if its jsut the line on axle tube from hose block to wheel cylidner then you jsut need side snips or tin snips and small vice grips to remove old line and fittings(will be frozen rusted godo luck using a wrench on them)

    then go autozone or whatever and get 3/16" tubing whatever length you need they carry different lengths, get closest length that you need without going under, and bend the line however you nered to to get it connected both ends

    wheel cylinder is held to backing plate by two metal screws bolts, on outside backside of backing plate right by where brake line connects into back of wheel cylinder, cant miss them,

    dont tear brakes apart, jkust remove the two top long springs and the two round keeper spring caps in center of the shoes then carefully move the tops of the shoes away(spread apart enough to get wheel cylinder out after you unbolt the two screws,

    go from there

    yo may neeed someone to hold shoes for you while you reinstall cap keepers and bolts and springs

    sounds like youll need new shoes and cans or brake cleaner to spray drums and backing plates and springs parts off clean

    wheel cylinder may be a tight fit rmeoving and replacing, dont be a wuss, pry it out do whatever you gotta do to get old one out and new one in, yo wont hurt anything but dont pop off the big black rubber dust boot seals on ends of the cylinders! be careful!

    use rat tail file and file some around the hole that the cylinder fits in in the backing plate, clean it up after you get old cylinder out it will help you alot in getting the new one to fit in the hole!

    otherwise it can be a bitch to get the two mounting bolts to start threading into the backside of the cylinders

    with brakes and engine work cleanliness is godliness keep dirt grease fluid anything from touching brake facings and drums, clean them good! and hands too before handling new shoes etc.

    if the wheel cylinder blew then its most likel;y because th self adjjusters froze and the shoes quit moving out to drum and it eneded up blowsing the cylinder end seals, so you will want ot remove adjuster and get new one they are cheap, i always use plumbers pipe thread dope on threads and reassemble them, when they are brand new, prevents this problem in the future






    good luck
     
  4. grindkings

    grindkings 1/2 ton status

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    Heres what happend. I took my tire off and i noticed that the "thing" the wheels are on was loose. So i grabed it and the whole "thing" pulled off. The internals where rusted. I went to compare to the opposite side, but the "thing" wouldn't move cause there where 2 little squars holding it in place.
     
  5. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

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    those would be your brake drums, on a 10 bolt the outside of them just slips on and off so that is what you had come off, no big deal, I would get some brake cleaner and clean everything in there, just check the pads for wear and replace them if needed, I am not sure what you are talking about when you say they "blew up" so explain please :D
     
  6. grindkings

    grindkings 1/2 ton status

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    the one side will slip off but the other won't. The good one has two squars around the edges, which i believe are lockers, however the bad brake dosn't, thats why it's poops off. I was just worried because everything inside the drum was rusty very rusty
     
  7. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

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    I am not sure what these squares are that you talk about, the other only prolly isbnt coming off because there is a adjustment on the drums for the e-brake and they can make the drum stay on. Where exactly are these sqaures at??
     
  8. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    why exactly do you think your brake broke? other than that drum being able to come off?

    you need a standard brake job. better get a manual and learn how. its not hard, just make sure you note which way things come apart. take pictures or notes...

    one drum coming off and the other not is not uncommon.. the reason the one isn't coming off is because it is hanging up on the brake shoes.. you need to go in the back of the brakes (backing plate) thru a little window and adjust the shoes in. sometimes the hole is plugged.

    your brakeline goes to the wheel cylinder in the backing plate on top of the axle tube.. the window for adjustment will be below the tube... you need to get in there with a screwdriver or adjusting spoon and spin the starwheel to loosen the shoes. look at the side that comes off for reference...

    the exact opposite is true for the side that slides right off. if its sloppy loose, it may be out of adjustment due to bad shoes, worn drum, etc..

    just because those metal parts in there are rusted doesn't mean there not working. tho its an indicater they're old and need replacing. spring kits are cheap.

    go to the parts store and get a spring kit, brake cleaner (soak down internals before you take apart) brake shoes and bring your drum in to them to be turned or replaced... the spring kit and shoes are relatively cheap, the drum may not be...
     

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