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Rear Diff fluid change, inspection.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by txguy, Sep 6, 2001.

  1. txguy

    txguy 1/2 ton status

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    Any special tools needed to pull apart the rear differential on a 85 Jimmy. As far as I know its the OEM 10 bolt. Anything I should watch out for? I am off tommorrow, and think its goign to be rain free. I am planning on pulling the cover and taking a look to see if anything is broke, etc... Also, whats the best lub for it? I have some permatex stuff to use to seal it back up, is that good enough for the cover, or is their a better way?
     
  2. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    No real special tools. If you don't have a manual, I would buy one just to have reference on hand. Take off cover (have pan underneath diff to catch gear oil. Jack up and brace axles both sides. Take off wheels/tires, and drums. Remove clips from carrier, then you can take out axles. This is a good time to inspect, replace, seals, races, and bearings if needing it. I run mobil 1 synthetic in my diffs. Might not work if you have limited slip, if so, gear oil requirements are particular sometimes, although Mobil 1 is good for most. Besure and use a silicone gasket maker type even if you run a regular gasket. Just put lite film on both sides of gasket. This is for 10 bolt. Might have missed something, but I think that is it. If you are going to take out the carrier and pinion, this is a bigger project, almost a science and gettin back together right, so wouldn't attempt it unless you have time and patience. Just my 2 cents worth

    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  3. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

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    Just did this yesterday on my 10 bolt. Get ready for a foul smell !! That rear end stuff smells like something the dog threw upp! [​IMG][​IMG]

    I used one of locktite's "make a gasket" products to seal it back upp. Spend some time cleaning the surfaces, and get it absolutly spotless. Then you will have no problems getting it sealed. Also the axle took 2 1/3 quarts to fill back upp. The gear oil for limited slipp diffrentials has a additive in it that you need. but it's labeled on the botle pretty good.



    <font color=red><a target="_blank" href=http://www.espen88k5.alloffroad.com>www.espen88k5.alloffroad.com</a></font color=red>
     
  4. txguy

    txguy 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks... What type of gear oil did you use? Do you have the OEM one? Has yours locked up any wheels when backing, an/or chirp on turns at various times? Again, thanks.
     
  5. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

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    I use Quaker State always. I just finished changing both the rear u-joints, sealing upp the t-case+ changing the rear seal, and finaly changing the fluid in the rear. The u-joint closest to the t-case had one bearingcap bone dry that just fell out of the yoke when I removed the clip. It was pretty far gone.
    I have noticed the driveline binding upp and making thumping sounds after engine-braking before a turn etc. cause of the loose u-joints, but everything in the rear diff looked spotless. The magnet didn't have a grain of metal shavings on it&lt;img src="http://coloradok5.com/forums/images/icons/smile.gif"&gt;

    Also the rod that runs from the t-case to the engine (pass-side) I found was broken off at the engine bolting point. I welded that back strong, and that helped with the shudder I would have at take off before. It feels almost like a new truck after all this.

    Anything I can do to help just ask.

    espen

    <font color=red>&lt;a target="_blank" href=http://www.espen88k5.alloffroad.com&gt;www.espen88k5.alloffroad.com&lt;/a&gt;</font color=red><P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by Espen88k5 on 09/07/01 01:20 AM.</FONT></P>
     

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