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Rear Diff Problem Found? ......... (pic)

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Stoopalini, Dec 19, 2000.

  1. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    I took off my rear diff cover last night and this is what I saw:

    http://stoopalini.coloradok5.com/photo5.html

    Obviously the broken tooth is my main concern. could this be the cause of my vibration when accelerating? What gear is that anyway?

    I looked at everything else while I was in there and didn't notice any other obvious problems. The bearing on the right side, underneath those 2 5/8" bolts, seemed a little loose. There was some play in the bearing, but I think this may be normal. Anyone know for sure?

    Is it worth it to replace that gear with the missing tooth? or should I just hold off and save my $$ for a new rearend ......?

    Thanks,

    Thomas.

    -- '84 K5 Blazer --
    http://Stoopalini.coloradok5.com
     
  2. californiak5

    californiak5 1/2 ton status

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    It's going to be like a domino effect if you don't change out the gear. First the rest of that tooth will go, then a couple be hind it, then a big load boom. And its all done. If you don't have the money to swap in a stronger rear end I would sugest replacing that gear before you have to replace the whole carrier. Just my $0.02
    Good luck.

    [​IMG] I have to agree with the Puddy Cat. [​IMG]
     
  3. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Crakel crakel crakel......POP....BANG...Skreeeaachhhhhh BOOM![​IMG].......

    Do you want a completly new rearend?? Are or were you planing on upgrading to something bigger??
    Guess what?? Your reaend is toast so now you get to figure out witch way to go from here....different rear end or rebuild the one you have....Sup to you??

    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
    http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com
     
  4. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I was definitely planning on upgrading to something bigger, but this one has to last me into the new year.

    I have a line on a 3/4 Ton 14bolt with 4.10 gears for a pretty decent price; I just won't have the $$ until the 1st week of Jan.

    Will this rear end be ok until then if I go easy on it? or should I replace that one gear just to be safe until I can afford the 14 bolt?

    What is the name of that gear anyway??

    Oh, and does anyone have an opinion if this would cause a vibration when accelerating? I know it's most likely what's causing it, but I want to make sure. You never know, right? I could have multiple problems ...........

    Thanks guys,

    Tom.

    -- '84 K5 Blazer --
    http://Stoopalini.coloradok5.com
     
  5. Blazer1970

    Blazer1970 1/2 ton status

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    It's the ring gear. The ring and pinion gears have to be replaced as a set, and that means a complete rebuild of the rear end. You will have to cough up the $700 or so now, or find another rear end to use. You could keep driving on it the way it is, but I wouldn't stray too far from home. It will explode eventually. Also, if you keep driving on it, you will drive up the cost of repair, or it may not be repairable after it explodes. You could pull the rear drive shaft, and drive around with front wheel drive. That would make it a little less likely to grenade, but it would still be possible.

    Tim

    70 Blazer CST 4X4 350 SM465 NP205
    87 Burb 4X4 350
    01 GMC 2500HD 4X4 Duramax/Allison
     
  6. Kyle89K5

    Kyle89K5 1/2 ton status

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    Stop driving the truck. I know it's not what you want to hear, but take it from a guy that came home on a rollback. Beg, Barrow, or bum a ride of somebody, but don't drive that thing till you fix it. Think of it like this, when your pinion gear gets to that tooth, it won't have a load against it for a second and is gonna speed up and slap the next gear, causing it to fail. It's a domino effect. I'll bet if you were to look hard, the next tooth is prb, showing sign's of going and lord only knows what the pinion looks like. Bite the bullet and park the thing till you can either get that fixed or swap out the 3/4 ton stuff. I took the latter route, I'm in the middle of my swap right now. In all honesty, it was more cost effective to do the swap now as opposed to fixing the other. If you really want to keep driving it, call a couple of shops and find out how much for a new R/P installed. Most around here were about $400-$500. But I still would NOT drive around. You'll end up being stranded.

    Just my $0.02

    Kyle
    89K5
     
  7. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    How come you'll aren't calling Randy's Ring and Pinion, on this matter ?
    What's you ratio ?
    It will be ok if you dress up the broken tooth prperly !
    Good luck
     
  8. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    Randy's Ring and Pinion? Is that an online store or something?
    I don't know my gear ratio, but it is a Corp 10 bolt on an '84 K5.
    How can I "Dress it up Properly" is there a repair kit? Can I weld it? I do have a welder and also some torches ......

    Well, I'm at work right now, so I gotta drive the thing home. Once I get it home though, it will sit there until repaired . [​IMG]

    I decided to go ahead and get that 3/4 ton 14 bolt with 4.10 gears as a swap. Boss is actually gonna hook me up. So now I'm in the market for a couple 15" 8 lug rims, the 'trick U-Joint' (which I still don't completely understand), some new U-Bolts, and a solution for my front end .... either re-gearing or another replacement.

    Thanks to everyone, this place is Great!

    Thomas.



    -- '84 K5 Blazer --
    http://Stoopalini.coloradok5.com
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    You might want to keep a look out for a 10 bolt or Dana 44 3/4 ton front end with 4.10 gearing. They are somewhat common and usually not that expensive. It'll probably be less expensive than re-gearing the front you have.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  10. JimmyDie6.2

    JimmyDie6.2 1/2 ton status

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    look on the rear for the rear end code......or the glove box...if your info sheet is still there, look on that.....or divide the pinion teeth number in the ring gear teeth number, (count the one that sheered off also)....thats your ratio....js
     
  11. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    I looked at the pic. It looked like old damage. It wasn't shiny or nearly as jagged as my ring gear was when it broke. Also, from the angle of the brake, it looks like it broke when in reverse. Did you find the broken piece in there somewhere?? If not, and maybe even if so; I would drive it EASY until the first of the year. It's only two weeks away. Mine made noises about a month and a half before I found out my ring gears were going. By then, one was about as bad as yours and two others were chipping off. I didn't know what it was, so wasn't driving it easy either. Also, if you plan on replacing the entire axle, you'll just be out whatever money you get get by selling it(and a tow bill)
    Just my 02 cents.

    Fencepost eater
     
  12. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    OR If your front is in good shape you could take the rear shaft out and drive it in front wheel drive. LOL!!
    But then all your fluid would come running out the back of the t-case.

    Could he take the carrier adn ring gear out and leave the leave the pinion in so he could leave the rear shaft in, and leave it in 4hi?

    It sounds like it may work, but Im not real sure where the c-clips hold the axles either. So.... Its just a guesws, Does anyone else have an idea to expand on this?

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     
  13. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    Goose,

    I didn't find the broken piece in the housing, so I too was thinking it may be old damage. I did notice some play in the gears, but I don't know enough about them to be able to tell if it was normal, or too much.

    ftn96,

    LOL! I had joked about that exact idea! I was thinking, hmmmmm, remove the rear shaft, drive it in 4-Hi, and if the noise is still present, then its not the rear end. But, naaaaaa, I'll just swap it out. Gives me an excuse to upgrade anyway [​IMG]

    Another question comes to mind now: if the damage is old damage, then why did my truck start this vibration/noise thing recently? Can anyone think of something else that would cause vibration/noise when accelerating?

    Thanks to all who responded, I truly do appreciate it!

    Thomas.

    -- '84 K5 Blazer --
    http://Stoopalini.coloradok5.com
     
  14. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

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    bummer stoop... do you think you're truck is going to be ready for the Jan 27th run?
    I may have sold my chassis.. but if he doesn't come through... I have axles here.. 10 bolts and not expensive.:) Let me know if you need any help...


    (updated) http://www.rocko.coloradok5.com
     
  15. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I broke a tooth off my ring gear almost exactly the same when one of my bolts that retain the ring gear came out and got trapped between the gear and the cover. It busted a tooth off, I popped the cover and took out the bolt and the piece of tooth and ran it for 3 weeks. Gently mind you, no wheeling, etc. When I got around to examining it closer, I discovered that 2 or 3 teeth of the ring gear actually mesh with 2 or 3 teeth of the pinion at once so there is no way it can slip around and slap the other gear. I called no less than 3 shops here, as well as advice from guys on here and the general consensus was that there is no reason it should cause the diff to fail, but then again you never know. They said it may last a day or a year. The problem is with it jagged like that it will wear the pinion teeth and that will eventually cause the failure of something. It sounds like you have a line on replacement stuff anyhow but just wanted to tell you my experiences.
    The vibration could be a u-joint, have you checked them lately? Do they ting when you shift from drive to reverse? Its a possibility.

    Good Luck
    Mike


    <font color=blue>Thumper
    85 Fullsize Jimmy
    [​IMG]
    <font color=red>Lets Go Wheelin! </font color=red>
     
  16. EDdaTREE

    EDdaTREE 1/2 ton status

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    For the 8 lug 15 inch wheels, just call Summit Racing ...my bud got a set pretty cheap.

    "I'm not stuck...I just dropped my beer in my lap"
     
  17. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

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    Yea rocko, it sucks; but oh well. We all knew this puny little 10 bolt was not going to withstand the beating I give my truck when we go wheeling.
    I should be rolling by the 27th with my 3/4 ton 14 bolt, but if not, and you still have your chassis, I would definitely appreciate a loaner 10 bolt for the weekend [​IMG]
    Any idea on the gear ratio's of the 10 bolts you have?

    Hey Thumper, thanks for the positive comment there! Now that I have all this info, I really think the broken tooth was there all along, and my vibration/noise is most likely the pinion bearing; or one of the axle bearings (whatever they're called [​IMG]) I think the truck is drivable, not wheelable, but definitely drivable for part runs and stuff like that. I'll just drive it very easy until I fix this problem.

    EDdaTREE, thanks for the tip, I will definitely check them out!

    Thomas.

    -- '84 K5 Blazer --
    http://Stoopalini.coloradok5.com
     
  18. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    You said at the start that the right-side carrier bearing is a little loose... That's probably the cause of the noise. The entire carrier is moving around under load, changing the gear mesh patterns and making noise. The movement could be as little as 0.005". I know you're replacing the whole shebang now (lucky!) but I figured I'd throw this opinion at you.

    [​IMG] Semper Maintenance!
     
  19. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    Hey Stoopalini,

    In response to your to the quote you said: "the 'trick U-Joint' (which I still don't completely understand)"

    What the "trick" Ujoint is, it allows you to use your stock 1/2 ton Drive Shaft (1310 Ujoint Size) with the 1ton/3/4ton yoke (1350) size. So instead of having to find a 1ton/3/4ton drive shaft, you can use your own with the "trick" Ujoint, or "special" Ujoint or other names it comes with. I think the Napa part # is 447. But don't quote me on that. All you have to tell them is you need a a Ujoint that is 1310/1350 size. They should know exactly what you're talking about.
    Hope this helps yah bud.
    Boss
    http://www.boss.coloradok5.com

    [​IMG]
     
  20. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    I've heard that special u-joint referred to as a crossover joint.

    I broke a tooth off of the ring gear of my '77 K5 in Florida many years ago. The piece that broke off got between the ring gear and the housing and got ejected through the diff cover! I noticed a vibration on I-95 and pulled off the road to find gear oil all over the back of the truck. [​IMG]

    I hammered the hole on the cover shut as good as I could and trickled a quart of 30 weight oil in the fill hole (and all down my arm! [​IMG]) just so there would be something slippery in there. Limped to the next exit and found a tractor repair shop (out in the middle of east nowhere) and got the guy to weld the hole shut for me and sell me a few quarts of 90 weight. That was about an hour south of Jacksonville. I drove back to Worcester, Massachusetts with it like that. About a week later I started to feel a very slight click/bang type of thing with each revolution of the ring gear so I ordered a new ring and pinion set ASAP. So they will last for a while in that condition.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com
     

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