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Rear Diff ?s

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Panther, Feb 12, 2001.

  1. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    Hey guys!! First I wanna thank HELLRAISER for helping me with my truck over the weekend. I really can't even call it help since it was him doing all the work!!

    OK some quick background. My 90 K5 has a factory 10-bolt. From what I know, it is 30 spline, 3.73, with a gov-lock. My axle is making a horrible whine noise. We (ok, he[​IMG]) discovered it is most likely the bearings on the side of the diff that the shafts sit in.

    First question is, where can I get replacement bearings? Is that a Pep Girls stop or is it more involved. I know they have to be pressed by the way.

    Second, I wanna put in the PowerTrax No-slip. Yes I am set on this, I need info on putting it in. I am emailing PowerTrax, but I figured I would post here as well. HELLRAISER said I need to get an open diff carrier since my carrier is from the gov-lock. Any ideas on this?? Go to the junkyard or where??

    Thanks guys!! [​IMG]

    <font color=blue>"It's just a differentialator....Totally unnecessary" [​IMG]</font color=blue>
     
  2. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, #1 those axles bearings do not have to be pressed in or out. You can rent/ well, buy then return a bearing puller from Autozone (thats what they do there) and jerk the old ones out. Then you can use a drift punch and hammer and tap the new ones in. Those bearings are hard as hell and you are not going to hurt them as long as you hit them on the outside piece/track of the bearing, justs dont hit the little roller balls/ the actual bearings. I just put new ones in 2 days ago. You can get the bearings and seals at Napa or Carquest. Just make sure you take one of the old ones with you when you get the new ones to make sure they are the same. Besides you'll have to take the bearing puller back to get your money back anyway. YOur already going to have to make 2 trips, try not to make it 3 or 4 trips. Take the old one with you.

    #2. You will need to go get you an open carrier. Most likely a junkyard will be the place. However, after you get your new carrier, you are going to have to get yourself a ring and pinion installation kit, then after you attach the ring gear you have now to the new carrier, you are going to have to have your ring and pinion set up, back lash, pinion depth, tooth pattern, pinion pre-load and all that stuff. If you can do this yourself then by all meas get after it. If not you are going to pay more for the labor than it would cost you to just go buy another 10 bolt that already has an open carrier with 3.73's.

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90 Jimi,350/700R4/241/10bolts/4.10's/33's/4"
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  3. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    If you want the No-Slip and currently have a Gov-Lok, you will need an open carrier installed. Second, I would recommend completely rebuilding the rearend while you are at it, including the ring and pinion. You will already have completely apart and putting in new bearings anyway, you might as well put in a new ring and pinion. I would be kind of weary of re-using the existing gears if they have been making noise for a while because of the shot bearings.
    On the next note, I know you said you were set on the Powertrax no-slip.....but I just can't recommend it under these circumstances. If you go that route you will have to buy an open carrier and have the gears set up again anyway........the big advantage to the no-slip is NOT having to do all that to begin with. I just have to recommend buying some type of full case locker or limited slip. The installation costs would be the same and the cost of the parts would be pretty equal, but you would gain a much stronger rear-end overall. The big disadvantage of the no-slip is that is re-uses the weak stock carrier.
    Just my 2 cents.
     
  4. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Good point!!

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90 Jimi,350/700R4/241/10bolts/4.10's/33's/4"
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  5. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Before you go spend money on an open carrier, talk to the PowerTrax folks. The NoSlip is available in versions that WILL fit into a Gov-Lock carrier. It's a different part number than the part for an open carrier, but the price is the same.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com>http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com</A>
     
  6. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks 6.2....

    The ring and pinion seem OK. There are no chips or missing teeth or anything. The noise seems to be completely coming from the bearings.

    The reason I went with the No-slip wasn't the hassle of the gears. I knew it all had to be ripped out when I decided on the No-slip. I want a new diff/locker, but wanted something in b/t an auburn and a detroit. The No-slip seemed like the compromise b/t both worlds.

    Is the case what breaks most on a diff. I didn't know it was that much of a concern. My truck is at least 90 percent on road for at least another couple months. But I wanted the off-road benefits of the soft locker.

    <font color=blue>"It's just a differentialator....Totally unnecessary" [​IMG]</font color=blue>
     

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