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Rear disk brakes

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Brady, Sep 14, 2000.

  1. Brady

    Brady 1/2 ton status

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    Has anyone built there own rear disk brakes?I was thinking of using front end pieces(Backing plate,rotor calipers)I know they have kits but I have the parts already.I also know most kits use stock chevy parts.Maybee use Cadillac rear callipers for the E-brake.Any info is appreciated Brady
     
  2. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    A lot of it depends on what rear axle you have. If you have a 10bolt rear, you could probably mate a front 10bolt backing plate to it and eventually get it to work.
    the bad news - even if you get the backing plate to mate up securely, it will be difficiult to center the caliper correctly over the rotor. This is something where accuracy is VERY important.
    I have a 14bff and I bought a kit from TSM. It was about $280, with shipping it was right at 300. If that's too much dough, consider buying just the mounting brackets (take place of backing plate) from them. That's the only piece that's actually custon.
    WHat you would need in addition to that is a rotor for a 80-90 Ford 3/4ton 4wd front and send it to the machine shop for the wheel stud holes to be enlarged to your GM lug size.
    Then you'll need a 77 blazer front caliper ($15 at autozone) and of course a flexible brake hose, about $25 (I bought the blazer front brake hose.)
    Yes, you can use Caddy calipers bu they are $$$ and I'm told it is dificult to hook te ebrake cables up. AND, you can;t run round with them unhooked till you get around to hooking them up because they do not function correctly without the ebrake cable connected.
    Any questions I'll be happy to help.
    -- Mike
     
  3. 85m1009

    85m1009 1/2 ton status

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    I used stock front backing plates with no modifications except notching them to slide over the axle and bolted them to the back side of the mounting flange. I then used stock front rotors and front wheel studs. I enlarged the stud holes to 17/32" and mounted the rotors to the back side of the axle flange. The stock front calipers bolted up. I am using front and rear line locks for e-brakes. The stock backing plates are heavier and have guides for the calipers something I haven't seen on aftermarket setups. Including new rotors and calipers I only have $165.00 invested in the whole setup.
     
  4. blazer72

    blazer72 1/2 ton status

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    I was going to say look at this months truck and talk to him but he already answered!!!

    I understand the jeep thing I drive a BLAZER!!

    Ken
     
  5. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    Was the TSM kit all inclusive? Anything you had to buy outside of the kit? THanks in advance for the info.......

    <font color=black>'79 K5 - 406 w/IROC TPI -<font color=orange> K5#5 - <font color=blue>http:// www.blazzinor.coloradok5.com
     
  6. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    It has the backing plate, rotor, and hardware.
    You have to supply a caliper ($15 from Autozone), brake pads (same ones as I use on the front) and a flexible brake hose (because the caliper has to come off when you change pads; again, a hose for a Blazer front works great)
    To connect the flexible brake line to your truck's hard line, you have to buy some 3/16" brake line with the right fittings (2 feet of it with the right fittings cost $4) and connect it.
    It's really straightforward.
    -- Mike
     
  7. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Why did you mount the rotors to the backsides of the axles? Are they too far out to be mounted to the front of the axle??? And which holes did you enlarge, the axle holes or the rotor holes?

    I heard that CJ-7 front rubber lines work good for rear discs.

    ANyone do rear discs on a 14 SF this way???

    Mike [​IMG]
    See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; http://emmett.coloradok5.com
     
  8. 85m1009

    85m1009 1/2 ton status

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    I mounted the rotors to the back side for two reasons. One, it made caliper to rotor alignment dead-on. Two, I used the same studs front and rear because the holes in the rotor are not a press fit. I enlarged the holes in the axle to accomadate the larger knurl of the front studs.

    Steve Frisbie
     
  9. Brady

    Brady 1/2 ton status

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    c85m1009 did you drill new holes in the backing plate to match the 4 holes on the axle.I started doing the same thing once before but side tracked with moving and never got back to finishing.Now I want to get it done.When I was doing mine I had a spare axle to experiment on and the plate fit on the axle without notching it just needed to drill holes.Thanks for confirming what I had thought could be done!I just wasn't sure about the what rotor I would need to use.do find the rear locking up easily or are you using a proportioning valve.I am running a 3/4 ton booster and master cylinder.Brady
     
  10. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    I use TSM brackets with 80 F250 4x rotors and 76-78 Cadilac Calipers on my 14 bolt. The TSM brackets are $110. The Cadilac calipers aren't bad in price if you can find some cores. The calipers will work fine without the e-brake cable as long as you crank the e-brake arm on the calipers once a month. This adjusts the calipers just like rear drums. The e-brake isn't difficult to hook up but does require some different cables and brackets. The 10 and 12 bolts require a different setup.

    Shawn
    87 K5
    few mods
     
  11. 85m1009

    85m1009 1/2 ton status

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    I used one of the existing holes on the backing plate and then drilled two more to match the holes in the axle. I am running a proportioning valve but I don't think it's necessary. I run it the valve about 3/4 open and wide open when I'm towing.

    Steve Frisbie
     
  12. turbo

    turbo 1/2 ton status

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    Did you mount on a 14 SF or FF
    What did you have to do the the ford disks to get them to fit OK.
     
  13. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>You have to machine out the stud holes in the rotors to fit the 14 FF studs, or you could machne down the studs to fit in the holes.</font color=blue>

    http://www.chrisd71k5.coloradok5.com <font color=blue></font color=blue>
     
  14. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    I have a 14 FF. What bigray said. My holes were machined but now I wish I grinded my studs so if I have to replace the rotors down the road, it's an easy fit. The studs only have to be grinded just a little.

    Shawn
    87 K5
    few mods
     

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