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rear driveline cv idea...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by reddog64, Dec 2, 2002.

  1. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    rear driveline cv idea...

    Could you take a cv from the front of a xfer case and modify it to be used in the back.. i mean mine has a plate that bolts to the front output.. so if I could convert my rear to that same plate.... I could take and put that cv joint with a longer shaft to make it work...???

    Anyone think about that before? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

    But I'm lazy.. I'll just call Jessie... eventually... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  2. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    Ya know... I was thinkin about that a while ago but I never got very far with it. But as soon as I read your post, it popped a new idea into the melon. What would be stopping you from bolting a flat flange type (whats on the front or a custom made thing) to the existing yoke? Those 4 bolts should be enough to hold things together right? Hmmm... got me going again.

    Mike
     
  3. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    That's what I thought...
    and I believe you can get those pieces from Jessie...

    You just take the top cv half and combine it with your rear bottom half and you have a cv rear???

    Anyone else have input? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  4. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Yeah I have input for you guys.
    In theory, you can do this, but know that the front doesn't take that much power, and the shaft is short, so you can get away with a small tube and yoke.
    The rear is constantly working and under a lot of stress, you will need stronger splines and tubes.
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    But like they said, you use the same rear, just meld it with a front CV! I think it would work and if you went and used an older CV without a plate, you wouldn't need to convert the output plate! Just a thought!
     
  6. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    I did just that to my np203 before I hooked up with Jesse for the 1 ton CV. I modified a the spicer type (rather than the flat plate saginaw) with studs and lengthened the tube. It worked well for the 5 months before I made the final upgrade - sorry, no pics though.
     
  7. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    The idea to use a "front" CV on the rear driveshaft comes up about every 6 months. The only reason I've seen that more people don't make it work is that these joints are pretty weak. Your rear driveline would be weaker than if you left it all stock.
     
  8. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    What joints are pretty weak? The u-joints? They are the same as I have on my rear shaft now. The CV itself? I didnt think it would be aby weaker then the stock type shaft. BTW, Furd Broncos had a cv rear shaft just like what we are talking about for a couple years... I never heard of any problems with them. And please dont start feeding the stuff about needing 1350 u-joints or they will be breaking all the time. I just recently had an experience... I broke the rear bottom u-joint (1310) and dropped the rear of the shaft into the dirt. I replaced the joint and was done after spending 22.00 for a joint. Had it been a 1350 joint... I shudder to think what I woulda been replacing. I dont mind them. But anyways... if I could find a rear cv shaft from a 79-80 bronco, they ran 1310s (as far as I know) and the upper attachment to the case wasnt a flange, it was a yoke with straps. I have been looking, but no luck so far.Except on complete trucks that I really dont want to buy just for the shaft.

    Mike
     
  9. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    Early chevy Blazers ran a cv just like that in the front, check into that... I have one out front, the only problem I'm see ing is to use it I'm going to have to pay some jerk $185 around here to have my shaft lengthened! That gets expensive! I really think it will work, I wouldn't run thee rubicon with it, but other than that said, go for it and tell us how it turns out!
     
  10. Batmanjr

    Batmanjr 1/2 ton status

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    Oh and about the 1350 vs 1310 ujoints, the only thing I like about the 1350 is they don't break, they wear... This way I don't drop a shaft but vibrate all the way home so I can fix it! I've ran a bad U-joint(1350 Trick) for a week and it had half a peg left when I removed it! Yeah it shook like a cheap hotel bed, but It got me to work and back till I got around to replacing it! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  11. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Well, what I thought of before that everyone here shot down was to take an 80's front CV joint and have one of the two U-joints in the slip-yoke ears and the other one in the driveshaft ears. All you would need then is a shorter tube (or more lift!). Apparently the problem is that there is interference between the CV and slip yoke and it would take enough grinding to weaken it further.

    If you have a good CV off another vehicle and a fixed output on the T-case, then I think it's a good idea to graft the CV in. Others have said before though, that it's cheaper to just buy a custom shaft from high angle or Tom Woods then to have all of the cutting, welding and balancing done on the junkyard parts. It's definately worth looking into, though.

    I also wondered about using a Bronco CV before. Jess from High Angle told me that there "is no practical way to make it work". I don't know what that means and I never found a unit to experiment with.

    Just be sure that your custom piece is not the weakest link in the driveline. You want to break something else.
     
  12. VisionxOrb

    VisionxOrb 1/2 ton status

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    I think the local driveline guy that made mine took one from and old caddy. it used 1310 u joints.
     
  13. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    This has been done several times before. The caddy has the same spline count and diameter in the slip yoke, so the slip yoke and CV go right on. The downside is that the splines inside the yoke are not full depth. This is no problem on the street, but it does limit the amount of suspension travel you can use in the rear. I have no idea how much of an effect this has in the real world. I just know it's the excuse the driveline guys use to sell you something more expensive.
     

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