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Rear driveshaft/U-joint options

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by MTBLAZER89, Jan 9, 2006.

?

What driveshaft/U-joint combo

  1. 1350 at each end

    2 vote(s)
    40.0%
  2. CV and a 1350

    3 vote(s)
    60.0%
  3. 1410 at each end

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. Flange/CV

    1 vote(s)
    20.0%
  5. other

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Ok everybody I don't know a whole lot about all the different U-joints and what their strength's and/or weaknesses are. I am going to be doing a SYE and clocking ring on my 241. I am going to move the T-case back up into the frame rails and attempt to achieve a flat belly. Anyways my question is what joint combo do you suggest for the rear shaft. Any advice would be great. I put an "other" option in my poll for choices I don't know:D I am gonna be around 5" of suspension 56's with an Echobit flip.

    I would also like the pros/cons of what you voted for, and why you voted. I am gonna be calling up Jesse, but just wanted to get a good set of opinions too.


    I hope my poll options aren't too confusing..my knowledge of whats available is very limited. :)
     
  2. trailblazr81

    trailblazr81 1/2 ton status

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    I like the CV 1350. Ive had one in the past and loved it. No vibes and it held up when I lost a U bolt and sheared the pin on the leaf pack causing a rear tire to slide back into the fender. Fun stuff when cruising on the freeway. :eek1:
     
  3. btolenti

    btolenti 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 241 with SYE, and went with the 1350 CV at the transfer case and a 1350 at the axle (14BFF). It has held up great so far and there are absolutely no vibes, even at 75mph.

    Your best bet is to call Jesse and tell him exactly what you are going for...
     
  4. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    i have a High Angle Drivesline slip yoke 1350 cv driveshaft with very low milage on it that i dont need any more, its too short for my application. pm me if you're interested. i can get pictures if youd like.

    reguardless of what you choose, id definitely go with a cv. the amount of angle they can hande is so much greater than normal u-joint shafts.
     
  5. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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  6. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    delete

    i feel like a newbie all over again haha
     
  7. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    PM sent
     
  8. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Anybody else? :D
     
  9. Chaddy

    Chaddy 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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  10. btolenti

    btolenti 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, but how much lift do you have? What are your angles? Clocking the transfer case will only really effect the front driveshaft angle, not the rear, so you shouldn't notice any vibes unless you are in 4hi or 4 lo. Plus, since you have an electric speedo 241 you were able to get the super short SYE, which gave a bit more driveshaft length (something like three inches). The 89 cases, which I assume MTblazer has, should be mechanical speedos which limit him to the standard lenght SYE.

    I have 6" of lift (add-a-leaf and a shackle flip) and I went with the 1350 CV so that my joints would last longer. I probably could have gone with standard u-joints at both ends (shimming the axle down a bit) but their life would be considerably decreased due to high operating angles. I drive my rig on the street about 50% of the time, so I didn't want to change u-joints every other week. I guess for a trail only rig, maybe a regular u-joint setup would be stronger...
     
  11. blackblazer717

    blackblazer717 1/2 ton status

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    ive always said driveline options are endless and picking and choosing will only help with your search for an awesome setup.

    LUKE
     

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