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rear end opinions

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ftn96, Jul 12, 2001.

  1. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    CLearance wize, how much bigger is the 14 SF than a 12 bolt? I was debating on building up a strong 12, for my 50/50 daily/mudder.
    I know I'd love to have the 9.3 carrier over the 8.7 but I aint never gonna go more than 35's on this rig. I know this a dead horse issue. But my mind is going a thousand miles a minute and I just need a little direction. I was talking to Rene, and we both agree that the damn C-clip issue was just a dumb-fu$$ design idea. I wouldn't totally opposed to a ford 9" but I have never played with no ford stuff.

    ONE NOTE though--- REMEMBER 14 bolts are worth twice than FREON around here in TN.

    When in doubt.....Use the Saws-all[​IMG]
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  2. BillyBob

    BillyBob 1/2 ton status

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    Well, building up a 12 bolt is kinda iffy.. on the ORC chevy site, you saw what happens when things like boggers meet a 1/2 ton drivetrain. If you want large tires and a really loud heartbeat under the hood, you're gonna roast that 12 bolt. I don't think that even a warn full floater kit will help you very much.
    Anyway, if you're SURE that you're not going past 35"s (yeah, that's what they all say.. ) then the 12 bolt should be fine with some Moser shafts and some HD bearings. Though the C-clip thing is always an issue. I wouldn't dump too much into the 12 bolt, since it still is 1/2 ton and anything could happen to it.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://billybob87k5.50megs.com>Homepage of Porky & Stinky</A>
    Billybob, the REAL <font color=red>Bionic Redneck</font color=red>
     
  3. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, thats what they all say! [​IMG]
    Not on this truck. This is my daily, weekend mud hole toy.
    After I get it done the way I want it and get over the first year or 2 with the new baby. Im going to get another k5, Pre-emmision's year, 74 or earlier and then we will go F-ing ballistic with that one..

    When in doubt.....Use the Saws-all[​IMG]
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  4. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    I can see it now, here comes all the "YOOU HAVE TO RUN A 14FF!" comments! [​IMG]

    The 14SF is about 1" lower than the 12bolt with about a 1/4" or so you could grind off...

    I and many others have been running 12 bolts for years with 35's and some larger without problems. Depending on what you pay for either, I would go with the 12 unless you can get the 14 cheaper than the 12.

    I have been running my current 12 bolt for almost 3 years with stock everything except for the gears which are Richmonds.

    If you want extra piece of mind with the 12 bolt, upgrade to Moser shafts and some stronger bearing caps with a diff cover that perloads the bearing caps..

    But I dont see you having a problem with a stock 12 bolt.

    <font color=green>MIKE</font color=green> - "Hukd on fawnics,werkd fer me!"
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  5. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Right. You make me feel all warm and fuzzy Emmett!! LMFAO[​IMG]
    I was thinking 12, moser's, and a POSI. Then I'd posi front and rear. This would keep the ball breaking force of the lockers from being so hard on the peeee-uny 12 bolts. [​IMG]

    When in doubt.....Use the Saws-all[​IMG]
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  6. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    LOL.... Down Ftn, quit humpin my leg! LOL J/K!!!!!!!! [​IMG]

    <font color=green>MIKE</font color=green> - "Hukd on fawnics,werkd fer me!"
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101</A>
     
  7. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    LMFAO[​IMG]
    So clear this up for me after you cleean your leg up.[​IMG]
    Do all 12 bolts have 30 splines or 28's? Too many numbers for my fried brain to keep up with.

    When in doubt.....Use the Saws-all[​IMG]
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  8. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Sorry, I couldn't resit that one! [​IMG]

    I think all 12 bolts are 30 splines unless they maybe some real old ones are less. I do see some spools and different carries list a 33 spline 12bolt, but I think that is for custom axles.

    <font color=green>MIKE</font color=green> - "Hukd on fawnics,werkd fer me!"
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101</A>
     
  9. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Man I'm so sick of this 14BFF .... 14B FF! I think some of the guys are a bit 3/4 ton happy. Yes it is cheap, but for a daily driver it gets to be a lot of dead weight... especially weight that is being spun. So basically if you shell out for disc brakes to counter the weight... well doh!, there goes cheap. The FF design is nice for if you break an axle and stuff, but I would take a look at some of the guys down in the southeast. I mean unless things have changed recently Grim, Keith, and DepDog wheel like mad men and go anywhere the 3/4 ton guys do one 12B's, also Mike is a fine example cause some of the pics of ole Emmett look pretty nasty. Obviously they have some great driving skills but it goes to show you what can be done. Plus it does matter weather you do rock crawling... I personally don't care for it plus there is none here. Beef up the 12B w/ aftermarket shafts and learn to control the lead foot and you can live quite well. A 14B is really more then I need for my truck right now... plus I don't want to go grinding on the front calipers or run an even more expensive 16" rim and tire. Plus you still have the frt axle to worry about.

    I looked into a 14 SF and it is just too expensive IMO... I mean $600 plus the costs of moving the spring perches and such... I'd either step up to 14B FF or beef up a 12B

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</A>
     
  10. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Its cool Mike. I usually dog cuss all my firends, amke fun of them and expect the same in return. Cause I think of it as a guys way to say, I love you man. BUT STAY OFF MY F_ING LEG!!![​IMG]

    Ok, So when I go to get me an LSD for the rear, I m ass-uming
    that they will come in the different series as does the stock carriers for the 12 bolts. So Id have to get a series 4 for a 4.10 LSD unit. Right?
    AAAhhhh, hhuuuuuhhuu, I said, ... huuhhhh UNIT!!![​IMG]

    When in doubt.....Use the Saws-all[​IMG]
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  11. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    Or you could just buy my axles as I am upgrading to that damn 14ff and dana 60 but that is to move up to 38.5's. I have a 12 bolt and dana 44 detroit rear and detroit ez locker front. 4.10 and crossover on the front axle. See that would solve all of your problems. And by the way I have run 35's for 12 years on this truck. In Alabama in the mud I never broke anything. In Moab The long side fronts will let go sometimes, but the rear 12 has never let me down.

    I thought I was wrong once,
    but I was mistaken
     
  12. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    IMHO it is cheaper to go with a 14 ff then anything else. I bought a 14 ff with 4:56 and a Detroit for $500.00 and moving the mounts is not that big of a deal. I plan on rock crawling because there are alot of rocks here in Pa so it was a good choise for me. If you compare the price to a similar equipped 12 bolt I believe I came out cheaper. The big drawback is you either carry 2 spares if you don't convert the front axle or spend the money changing the front over. I believe a 12 bolt will hold up fine to alot of abuse with the stock shafts in them. Alot of the decision you have to make is how much money you have to work with and what you will do with the truck. If you don't already have a 12 bolt and only plan on mudding the truck you can make a 10 bolt last a long time too. I have seen guys drag race cars with 10 bolts behind bigblocks and they stay togeather. As far a clearance you will be better off with a 10 or 12 bolt over anything. Just my $.02 worth.

    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
     
  13. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I've got the 14 bolt Semi-floater. I got it free, it bolted right in with a goofy U-joint, is stronger than the 12 bolt (33 spline, much bigger shafts, etc). If you want the mother of all c-clip rear axles, this is the one.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  14. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    See now you all have me trippin again. That 14 SF with delete some more of my ground clearance and most of my action is mud ruts, so that clearance is an issue. I HATE getting my feets muddy then getting back in the truck and then when I get home I have to clean all that crap out of the cab.
    But the mother of all C-clips does sound good......[​IMG]
    DAMNIT!!!!![​IMG]

    When in doubt.....Use the Saws-all[​IMG]
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  15. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Well w/ the big boys and mud the keys are one shav'n and two... big f-ing tires! Why do you think so many mud trucks run unreal custom fabbed body lifts. I know some guys that do hardcore mudd'n here and they basically have said forget about mud pits and a 14 unless you have at least 38 or 40's and are shav'n it. Kinda makes my 35's seem punny LOL [​IMG]

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
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  16. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Actually Im not really into the mud thing all that much. I prefer the old logging trails with ruts here and there. Basically the trails that are rated at 1, 2, or 3 at most. This is still my street ride here too. So Im trying to keep it under control, and go nuts with the next truck.
    I've decided to go with the 12 bolt or 14 SF which ever comes my way first and depending on the money situation at the time.

    When in doubt.....Use the Saws-all[​IMG]
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  17. 83ZZ502_Jimmy

    83ZZ502_Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Yes in a racecar they hold together, but one must remember, a race car is usually 2500lbs lighter than our K5's.. They work fine for those apps but not in a 5500-6000lbs vehicle.
    I have seen a 14b SF take lots of abuse. My friend has one in his 89 2500 p/u. He carries 6000lbs in the bed sometimes. Its got a 454 BB in it too. We put a lock-rite in there and it is even holding up. Not a feather-touch type of driver either.
    My .02,
    John

    '83 GMC Jimmy 4x4 ZZ4 Crate Motor
    '83 Chevy P/U 4x4 Sand Drag Racer, 578 RWHP
    '94 Impala SS
    '01 Chevy 2500HD w/8.1L & Allison Auto
     
  18. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>It all depends on the kind of wheelin you do. For fire road trails and mud, a built 12 bolt will be fine. The tires arent the only factor in how much axle you need. If you're going to be wedging the tires in between boulders and trying to crawl out in low range, then you better have 32 lugnuts. If you're going to be on milder trails and mud in 4 hi than you dont need the 12 bolt. Torque multiplication and traction are what breaks axles. In the mud you're in high range (less torque multiplication) and spinning the tires fast (less force is needed to move them) so you break less. Keep your 12, throw in a set of quality gears, a full case traction unit (I would go with a posi for a daily truck) alloy shafts and some bigger bearings. Oh yeah stay off the [​IMG] pedal too.</font color=blue>
     
  19. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    I'll be going over some boulders but wont be doing any wedging. Degdog's got 12 bolt rear with beef and he wheels the piss outta his at Tellico and I havn't heard of him breaking the rear end. And I dont drive like a nut, Some times I feel like a nut, sometime I dont. [​IMG]

    When in doubt.....Use the Saws-all[​IMG]
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