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Rear main seal on a 454

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by mountainexplorer, Feb 12, 2004.

  1. mountainexplorer

    mountainexplorer 1/2 ton status

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    How easy or difficult is it to change a rear main seal on a big block while in a truck?
     
  2. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    It can be easy or hard. Depends on the condition of the seal. Mine was easy to do. I dropped the pan and the oil pump. Loosened up the main bearing bolts to give me some give, removed the rear main bearing cover, and was able to push on one side of the seal and pushed around the crank untill it was on the bottom and then I pulled it off. Since I was under there, I went ahead and changed out the main bearings. They were fine but I hate doing bottom end work while its in the vehicle so I just did it anyway.
     
  3. mountainexplorer

    mountainexplorer 1/2 ton status

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    Thats what I hate doing too, is stuff like this while its still in the rig. The luck I have with oil pan gaskets and rear main seals, if "I" do it, I might as well just leave it alone cause it's gonna end up leaking just as much as it does now if not more.

    So, I have to pull the oil pump and main bearing bolts? I hate fiddling with stuff like that unless its out on a stand. I wonder if I just leave it alone how long this next clutch will last until it gets oil on the disc.
     
  4. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    it is it a 2-piece or 1-piece RMS? a 1-piece you gotta yank the trany and the pan and ther maybe even the rear main bearing cap depending on how far in the recess the seal is...2-piece you can do with the tranny in place, IIRC...I dunno though...I have only owned 1-piece RMS engines...

    Chris
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Just do it. Use only Fel-Pro gaskets.

    If you're having trouble with leaking, get a rear main seal with two seal lips, or one with a relocated seal lip. If you've had leakage issues before, it's most likely that the seal surface on the crank is worn, which wouldn't be your fault.

    If you use a good quality gasket and rear main seal, you won't have leaks.
     
  6. mountainexplorer

    mountainexplorer 1/2 ton status

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    It's a 2 piece seal. A Fel-Pro rear main is going to cost me about $17 at the local Schucks. I haven't checked other prices yet.

    I know I'm making a stupid move here, but I'm just going to throw it back together tomorrow (I have it apart replacing the clutch). The motor leaks nowhere except slightly around the back of the crank. I know that this seal will probably only cause me to eventually replace it anyway down the line, but I hate the idea of:

    Pulling the oil pan (which has a gasket that doesn't leak at all), pulling the main caps and oil pump, then putting it all back together, and trying to make a new pan gasket not leak. I might as well pull two more motor mount bolts, and disconnect a few things and throw the motor on a stand and do more to it.

    But, the thing runs so good as it is right now, I'll just leave it. Maybe by the time this new clutch goes out, it'll be time for a new motor anyway. (yes, I am also too lazy to do it right now, considering its in my driveway in the cold and can only work on it when there is natural light).
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Fel-Pro makes more than one rear main seal for that application.
     

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