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Rear of bed \ Tailpan

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by KrebsATM02, Dec 11, 2000.

  1. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    Rear of bed \\ Tailpan

    My truck spent most of it's time in texas, but it was in ohio for 2 years from the previous owner. In that time i guess the salt got trapped in between the rear of the bed and the support back there. As a result there are hole's behind the tires where the support is back there. I am thinking of going to the junk yard and taking the saws all and cut right behind the wheel wells all the way across and get that whole piece all the way to the rear. Now, after that is done, do you think i should over lap this piece i get after i get rid of all the rust spots on my floor, or cut my old one out and but the new piece up to the cut in my floor and the weld it at the seam? I need suggestions because i am doing it over christmas. Thanks - Doug

    Doug Krebs
     
  2. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Rear of bed \\ Tailpan

    I have a 82 tub here.. the rear section is good.. you could help yourself to the rear floor pan area all you want..
    Right now.. it's only surface rust .. since it's sitting outside.
    Let me know what you'd like to do.. I'm only going to end up scrapping the tub anyway.. and possibly the chassis..


    (updated) http://www.rocko.coloradok5.com
     
  3. BUDDY

    BUDDY 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Rear of bed \\ Tailpan

    I just did what you are talking about, except the more I looked at it the more I realized I was going to have to do the WHOLE floor. So I did, with 1/8" diamond plate steel. Also, I have a 3" bodylift, so I replaced most of the lift pucks and support channel with 3"x3" box tubing, and the rearmost channel and liftpucks with 5"x5" tubing. I cut out the entire floor and left about 1"-1 1/2" all the way around, for something to mount the new steel to. The 1"x2" channel that goes across the floor is spot welded all over the place and that's why I just cut it all out. Once I got it all welded back in, I had it lined with a Perma-Tech Spray-in liner. It really looks nice now.

    I have to tell you: IT WAS A PAIN IN THE ASS!!!!! But, I'll never have to do it again.

    E-mail or PM me if you have any questions. I'd be glad to help out.

    HTH,

    Buddy

    I've got my dream truck and it's a 72 K-5 that is getting there!!
     
  4. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Rear of bed \\ Tailpan

    Has anyone done it like i am talking about???? I searched on this but i didn't find anything about like what i am doing. Thanks


    Doug Krebs
     
  5. Woodman89

    Woodman89 Registered Member

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    Re: Rear of bed \\ Tailpan

    I just replaced the rear floor in my 89. I got replacement panels from JCW for around 120 bucks and they fit pretty well with minor trimming. They come in left and right so there is a seam down the middle that needs to be welded. I would not advise overlapping too much, since this just provides a place for rust to start. Be careful not to cut any of the supports when you remove the old floor, and be careful not to blow yourself up if you generate alot of sparks above the gas tank. You will need to remove the rear body mounts. I had to torch mine to get them off because they were swelled up from rust. If the tailpan is not too bad, make every effort to save it because I have heard that it is difficult to replace. Coat everything with Corroless or POR-15 that has rust, and be generous with the seam sealer when your done. I could not find a replacement cover for the gas tank filler tube so I had to make one. Good Luck - let us know how it turns out.
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: Rear of bed \\ Tailpan

    Yeah just got finished doing it. My floor was salvagable but the tail pan was toast. I used a peice of 7 inch wide u channel to make a new tail pan out of. I went that wide so that the rear legs of the roll cage would olt to it and make it super strong. The key mesurments is the width. It's 72.5 inches wide. You have to cut out tabs to bolt into the bed uprights. the width is 2 and 3/8ths. I took a couple pictures but havn't developed them yet. Hope to do that this weekend and I'l put them on my site.
    The real booger here is getting the old tail pan out without trashing the back of the truck. There are a bunch of pinch welds to drill out. I think it was 28 total and it ruined 4 drill bits doing it.
    Another fun thing is lifting the body enough to do the job. You got to get the tail up about 7-8 inches. I ended up taking some angle Iron and sliding it through the fender well after I got the body up and staked some 2x4 chunks to hold it up on the frame. It would also be a good idea to run a brace from the top of the bed rail accross to keep the opening the right width.
    It took me about 30 hours but like I said I didn't need to mess with the floor.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
     

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