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rear pinion problems, help...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by XHitman396, Jul 10, 2003.

  1. XHitman396

    XHitman396 1/2 ton status

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    i just replaced my rear pinion seal and nut, everything went fine until putting the nut back on, i bought a 10 dollar torque wrench (first mistake) at autozone, and said it took 45 lbs to untighten the nut, and i had barely 2 threads showing when i took it off, when putting on the new one, i had a good 3 threads showing and the wrench still read 35lbs, so now its squeeking and vibrating, but the leak that was there is gone, lil help, how do i correct this, and does my info sound good, or are like the torque readings way off of what it should be???? thanks
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The times I've done this (which is not correct) I put a large wrench on it, and tightened it as much as I could. No problems thus far.

    Again, not "correct", but has worked for me.
     
  3. K5MONSTERCHEV

    K5MONSTERCHEV 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah your dont want to tighten the nut as tight as you can, thats all bad.
     
  4. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

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    You need to set the preload on the crush sleeve. Sounds like you probably already crushed the sleeve though. You could have taken the nut off and put it back on with the same amount of threads showing, that would have likely worked. DO NOT DRIVE the K5 until you get it fixed. It will destroy your R&P. You need to get a new crush sleeve and a manual to find out what ft lbs. that nut should be torqued to.
     
  5. XHitman396

    XHitman396 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for all your help, but one last thing, what exactly is a crush sleeve?? thanks again....
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    IIRc, you need something like 300ft-lbs to "crush the sleeve", so putting an ordinary ratchet on it, and tightening it up as much as possible by hand, won't get you anywhere near 300ft-lbs.

    The reason its not correct is because you aren't measuring the "drag" once you tighten it. But if you don't have much choice, what are you to do?
     
  7. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    no, an ordinary ratchet wont work, but if you could apply 100 ft lbs of force, which i think most of us are capable of, then a 3' long breaker bar or pipe over breaker bar, you should be able to reach the torque load... its possible to do it by hand, just be inventive, mtblazer did it by setting the pipe against a spring and driving in reverse with the front wheels
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    no, an ordinary ratchet wont work

    [/ QUOTE ]

    This post is talking about re-tightening an already setup assembly back up, after the nut was removed. If you over torque it doing this, you have a chance to ruin a perfectly good axle.

    When setting them up for the first time you need that much torque, but when just replacing the seal/nut, (as in this case)you don't want to apply anywhere near enough torque to crush the already adjusted sleeve. The problem is, you are supposed to check pinion "drag" in in-lbs(?) after setting the crush sleeve, and you can't easily do that with it in the truck and everything still hooked up.
     
  9. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    well definately, but you could check it with everything in the truck if you pulled the carrier, right? or maybe not, maybe thats why i dont do rear diffs... LOL
     
  10. XHitman396

    XHitman396 1/2 ton status

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    ok well things arent getting better, from what i understand, i have to either just put the nut where it was when i took it off, 2 threads showing, or remove the whole damn axle to fix it, and if i do it wrong, i ruin my axle?? so what do i do now, i guess i will search online for the proper torque on the nut?? or and i f*cked and need to take it in. and what is this "drag" your talking about, please explain, HELP... thanks...
     
  11. XHitman396

    XHitman396 1/2 ton status

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    ok so i tried it again and i put the nut back where it was exactly before i took it apart the first time, and there is enough play in the flange that i can move it forwards and backwards quite a bit, it would take maybe another rotation and a half to begin tightening it, and its already reading 40lbs of torque. i need help, desperately, and i missed the damn hunting expo cuz i aint got nothin to drive there, whatta weekend eh? thanks yall
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    There is another thread about setting ring and pinions up, there is a link to an article on www.ring-pinion.com that details the procedure. If you want to do it right, prepare to spend some time and money on it.

    If you don't want to do it right, crank down on it, and hope that you get it close enough. If the yoke was loose, the thing wasn't on right in the first place, (so therefore its position prior is entirely irrelevant now) and was PROBABLY the real reason the thing was leaking in the first place. BTDT.
     
  13. redk5

    redk5 Registered Member

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    I have changed quite a few pinion seals. This crush sleeve is a sleeve that will adjust the load on the pinion bearings, the thighter this sleeve is squeezed, the looser the bearings get. the pressure on this sleeve is created with the nut you are cranking on, so if you were to tighten the nut more that it was before (assuming it was set up correctly before) then you would be changing the bearing preload, making the pinion loose. They were saying that the crush sleeve takes 300 ft lb of tourque to crush, this is true to an extent, when you initially crush the sleeve, it's like bending a piece of plastic, when you first go to bend it, untill you reach the stress point of the plastic it takes more effor that once it starts to bend, once the crush sleeve has started to crush it may only take 100 ft lb to crush it more.
    So, when changing this seal, remove the nut, remove the yoke, replace the seal, reinstall the yoke, and hand thighten the nut, lightly ratchet the nut back oun, you will feel when the nut tgihtens up initially. this is "snug". give it a little more pressure, and call it good, keep in mind all your doing is snugging the nut back on, reefing on it will change the preload and ause you problems, if the yoke moves when you place the truck in park and rock it back and forth you need to reset the preload(install a new sleeve). any other questions email me at red77k5@hotmail.com
     
  14. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

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    Any update on this?
     
  15. XHitman396

    XHitman396 1/2 ton status

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    ok, after being outsmarted by my truck, again, i think we got 'er done, this is what happened: the seal was bad, it was leaking so we changed it, i still had vibrations and noises, so i assumed it was the pinion nut since ive read a few posts on here that said the noise could be related to that, so we do it again.. not right, yesterday we say hell with it and we go to just tighten it down and see what happens, then my dads like, "whats that" and i look, ANOTHER DAMN U-JOINT IS OUT, so thats where the vibes were from, so we went through lots of frustration and time and hella sweat with 115 heat index, and it was the ujoint, and what pisses me off, that was the 5th or 6th ujoint we've changed on the rear driveshaft, so we upgraded to non-cheapo depot ones and we'll see what happens, and thanks to all who helped me out, i now know how to change a pinion nut /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  16. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    anethert thing you want to do is replace the pinion nut when you take it off.it is supposed to be one time use and then replace.it is a lock nut and once you take it off after the first time it was installed the threads will be looser every time you take it off and put it back on.just something else to think about.
     

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