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rear power window

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by KENNY, Apr 22, 2001.

  1. KENNY

    KENNY 1/2 ton status

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    84 blazer with a power rear window. the problem is it wont go up or down when I insert the key from the outside. Is it a fuse? where are the fuses for this window. i checked the connections and they seem ok. checked the fuse under the dash and it works ok.
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Does it go up and down with the inside switch on the dash?
    If it does then it is not the fuse. A lot of the key switches go bad...mine never worked.
    They are a PITA to replace, the gate has to be gutted just to get to the key switch.

    Rene

    [​IMG]<A target="_blank" HREF=http://jules.coloradok5.com>http://jules.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  3. FatBoyBlazer

    FatBoyBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    pull the back panel off and take the motor out. Then test the motor. to do that just ground the motor(any part of the out side metalcase) and the two little prongs just puit one of them on a positive.but also make sure that the spindle is up in the motor and not down. and i hope that helps
     
  4. KENNY

    KENNY 1/2 ton status

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    inside works fine. I took the panel off and looked at how to get the guts out. looked like a pain. still doesn't leave alot of room to take the lock out. l will try to take it out but am afraid of breaking the glass. anyone ever try this? helpfull hints appreciated
     
  5. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    I've taken the glass out, its no big deal, just be careful. first, lower the tailgate, then open the latches on the sides, like they would when you close the tailgate. this makes your truck think its closed. Then get a trashcan and stick it behind the tailgate, and roll the window up. Now you can access the maotor, just be careful around the glass.

    90K5

    See my truck at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502</A>
     
  6. Daveytree

    Daveytree Registered Member

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    Your problem could also be in the latch on the gate. There is a switch attached to the latch on the drivers side. My latch switch went bad. I jumped the switch out and it solved the problem. It was a big relief as opposed to replacing the motor for $90. The switch wasn't important to me so I eliminated it and soldered the wires together. I just had to make sure the gate was closed before messing with the window after that. I hope this helps.

    [​IMG]If you don't like my driving, <font color=red> get back on the road.</font color=red> [​IMG]
     
  7. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    Your problem is the contacts in the switch.I removed mine, replaced the contacts and the unit has functioned perfectly for 3 years now. Basically you have 2 choices, but a new set of contacts or repair them like I did. I will take you through the repair procedure if you like.
     
  8. 84GMC

    84GMC Registered Member

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    rear power window

    I have the same problem with my rear window. It works from the dash but not the key. I have a hard time just getting the key to turn. But on a side note, does anybody no why my rear window with automatically roll down if I go through a car wash or through a large puddle. I have to wait about 5-10 minutes to roll it back up b/c at firs it won't let me.
     
  9. NewK5Guy

    NewK5Guy 1/2 ton status

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    I just converted my manual tailgate over to power so I'm REAL familiar with the workings. I was in it 3 times before the actual conversion.
    You don't have to take out the glass to take out the switch. I found a way around it.
    84GMC-the water from the car wash is probably getting to the contacts. Best bet is to replace the lip weatherstrip(comes in inside/outside pair from JC Whitney for $40) and check the rubber gasket that seals the lock base from the tailgate. If it still happens, take out the switch and encase the contacts in clear sillycone.
    Kenny-I agree with the above post about that lockout switch. When I did the conversion, I couldn't find where the switch was supposed to go, so I jumped it and left it. When I originally bought the Suburban stuff thinking it would work, the Sub has a version of this switch and it just so happened to be bad, so that is the first place I'd start. If you want, I can email you on how to get at the switch and other stuff WITHOUT taking out the rear glass.
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If it works from inside the cab, its the lock switch. It can't be the tailgate open switch, or else it wouldn't work fcrom inside...all the power comes through the same wires, no matter where you try and open it from. I replaced my lock/plate in the back. Roll the window out (helps if someone is handy to work the switch, or run the cable by hand, slower=safer) while supporting it. I used a step ladder with some padding on it, so the glass was not "bent" one way or the other. But supported perfectly flat. As you are rolling it up, look for the two (10mm I believe) nuts holding the lock section in. Unbolt those, and the assembly will fall out, being held on by the wiring. Should even be able to run the window with that out of the vehicle, to test. Gotta make sure the drivers side latch is closed, or power to the tailgate will be disabled.

    Dorian
    My K5 and Chev/Olds tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
     
  11. Flyinhi86

    Flyinhi86 Registered Member

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    90K5 was right about accessing the lock from the inside of the tailgate. Putting a trashcan to support the window when the tailgate is down. I had the same problem with mine. Your best bet is to take your truck to a locksmith just to see if it is the right key. Mine seemed to be the right key, it turned back and forth. I removed the barrel from the door, you have to watch if you do this it may break on of the pins and you can't solder them back on. I was told that the key I had was the wrong one, it worked for the side doors but not tailgate(ever since I bought it). Put in a new barrel cause I couldn't fix the pin and worked fine. Oh ya the window worked from the inside switch the whole time. Any more questions? Let me know if this helps. Jason.
     
  12. Razorback

    Razorback Registered Member

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    Very interested...how do you remove the lock without removing the window? I think my lock is hosed. Key won't turn in lock. I used a lock pick and removed wheel barrow full of dirt and have pumped a drum of WD40 and lithium grease into the lock to clean and lubricate, but no luck yet. I have been putting off removing it b/c of the window. How do you get around it?
     
  13. NewK5Guy

    NewK5Guy 1/2 ton status

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    Easy, easy, easy. I felt soooooo stupid after I figured this one out. Could have saved me a ton of time when I was test fitting everything.
    Take off the access panel.
    This method is done with the tail gate open. It's easier this way. If you have electric, either close the latch where the switch is or reach in and hold the switch down. It will be easier if you close the latch(side note: simply pulling on the gate handle as you were opening it reopens the latch. No damage done)
    Raise the glass until it's all the way out. Having the tailgate open will keep the glass from coming down on you. In case you're afraid the gate won't hold the glass, it will. If my rusted out tracks can hold, yours can, too. If you want to play it safe, put a stool or something tall under the glass. Make sure the manual outside crank is pointing left or right. It's an alignment thing.
    With the glass at top rest, remove the 4 bolts that hold the regulator down. The manual regulators are a little tempermental, so don't lose your cool like I did. You should be able to easily lift the regulator out of the rest/crank interface position. Reach in to the glass tracks with a 10mm wrench(I think) and remove the 2 bolts that hold each track to the window channel. Once removed(and pay attention at how they come out), the regulator should scoot right out. You should be ok. Intense coil spring tension and gear reduction will hold it in place. A 10mm(I think, can't remember) socket on an extension will easily reach the 2 nuts on the crank base studs. Careful taking them out as the crank will want to fall to the ground.
    To replace, put the crank in making sure the interface receiver(once you see it, you'll understand) is positioned so that the tabs are on the sides. Take your regulator, making sure the crank interface tab is pointed straight up and down, scoot it in place, and make sure it lays flat. If it does, you got the crank/regulator tab lined up perfectly. Bolt the regulator down. If the arms don't reach where the tracks have to be installed, simply nudge glass into place, slide the tracks over the rollers, then bolt them back to the window channel. Roll the window down, and you're gold.
     
  14. K5RON

    K5RON 1/2 ton status

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    Funny this post is here 'cause mine wouldn't work today! The Tailgate latch switch went bad. It would go down but not up! Or was it the other way around? Jumpered out the switch and it works fine. Now for the question, mine doesn't work from inside! (Wannna trade?J/K) Any tips?

    TIA

    Ron

    PS I used a battery drill on the cable to temporarily put it up and down! Be careful though 'cause the drill can cause damage from an "over-run"!

    <P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by K5RON on 04/24/01 04:19 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  15. 89Blazin

    89Blazin 1/2 ton status

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    Lithium works ok with heated surfaces sealed from dust/dirt ...lubes and transfers heat well. In it's "normal" condition out of the tube it attracts dirt like a magnet. My thoughts anyway....the grease may have caused a gummy lock.

    85 Burb and an 89 Blazer
    One just for fun, one simply for pleazer
     

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