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Rear springs or blocks

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by franco802, Dec 18, 2006.

  1. franco802

    franco802 1/2 ton status

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    I am going to purchase my rough country lift in a day or two. The price for 4" front springs, 4" rear blocks, 4 shocks, brake line relocating brackets and a steering arm all for $359.00 to my door.

    Now, for an extra $171.00 the guy will throw in rear 4" lift springs, also rough country!!

    Should I just go springs front and back?? I don't like blocks.
     
  2. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    If you don't wheel much than I see blocks as being the option of choice. If you plan on wheeling a lot then springs would be better.
     
  3. mr.smartass

    mr.smartass 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If you have the money go with the springs, you won't regret later on if you decide to wheel more, plus they're safer, that's what I did, I have the same kit.
     
  4. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    For less $$ you can get a shackle flip. And I would shop around and find softer springs. I made the mistake of buying stiff springs and will soon be selling them.
     
  5. mr.smartass

    mr.smartass 1 ton status Premium Member

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    true... I was just going with the option offered... lol but yeah if I did it over again that's probably what I would do, but I also like being a able to tow a little still... I don't know just depends.
     
  6. gmc4cw

    gmc4cw 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    x2 on the shackle flip. call Offroad Design and they can put a whole kit together for you so that you don't have to throw away the blocks that come with the rough country kit.
     
  7. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I know that it has been discused a thousand times, but I tow with my shackle flip all of the time and have never had a problem.
     
  8. mr.smartass

    mr.smartass 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Hmm, guess I missed it. I'll read up a little more, I decided a little while back next time I go higher I'll go with a 2 inch shackle flip in the rear with the rough country springs, and 6" BDS or TC EZ ride springs up front with a zero rate.

    Do shackle flips work with 52" springs? I read that you might have to move them up a little bit and drill new holes, is this correct?
     
  9. franco802

    franco802 1/2 ton status

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    That's the thing. If I do a shackle flip then I have to cut off the rivets,drop the tank, I think you have to do a TC drop as well?? Not sure on that one.

    2nd, my K5 has a saggy but to begin with, so if I do a shackle flip I probably won't get the full 4" lift for the rear, therefore I also would have to buy a zero rate. By the time the shackle flip has added shipping and freight alone, it will be the same price as just adding the rear springs in with the vendor that offered me rear springs for an extra 171.00. BTW, the vendor is Top Gun Customs.

    Will I get more flex with the shackle flip route?? Mabe I should just buy the kit with the blocks and add the shackle and zero rate later. Hmmmmmmmmm.

    My main reason is to get as much flex as I can with my budget.
     
  10. mr.smartass

    mr.smartass 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Then go shackle flip, that is the main benefit... Rough Country is not flexy at all lol.
     
  11. franco802

    franco802 1/2 ton status

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    That's what I really needed to know:D

    Thanks.
     
  12. gmc4cw

    gmc4cw 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    call stephen at Offroad Design. they can put a whole package together for you that includes everything you need for the front and rear. they have longer shackles for the rear so that if you go with a shackle flip you can get an inch out of the shackle and have a good ride with good flex.

    as for a t-case drop, if you need one for a shackle flip then you would need one for 4" springs or blocks. the axle is moved the same amount.
     
  13. jms

    jms 1/2 ton status Author

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    I didn't drop the tank when I installed my ORD flip, I lowered it just enough so I could reach in there to install the bolts and put a box end wrench on them. I did drop the t'case by 1-1/8" to get rid of driveline vibrations with the stock '85 driveshaft.
    I'm using TuffCountry springs in the front, also from ORD.
     
  14. franco802

    franco802 1/2 ton status

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    I will call, but I know for a fact their kit will be more money. I can get the rough country kit (front 4" springs,rear 4" blocks,4 shocks, brakeline relocate brackets and steering arm) for $354.00 to my door. Of course if I get this kit I will eventually add the flip kit in the rear and longer brake hoses. I am just trying to budget, because i am also buying tires. Trying to find used 35's is a pain, because alot of people try to sell them for almost the price of new.
     
  15. gmc4cw

    gmc4cw 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    They are having their holiday sale right now. 10% off the suspension parts. look to Ebay for a 4" steering arm. you will probably get one for half what people want new.

    you get what you pay for. a cheap lift will be exactly that, Cheap.
     
  16. cabledawg

    cabledawg Secret Squirrel Premium Member

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    If it was me I'd just buy the original setup mentioned earlier with the springs for the rear. Blocks are very dangerous for towing, especially on older springs. You get alot of axle wrap unless you put a traction bar on and by then you could have just spent the money on the springs. The flip kit from ORD would be good, but can be added later when the money is available.
     
  17. SierraJim

    SierraJim Registered Member

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    I say get the springs. That way if you want/need to go taller in the future, you can do it for less. A block is cheap compared to getting new springs. Or like you said, the flip kit later will work a lot better with a new spring. Also if you get the springs and realize you do like the height, you can shop around for flexy springs and feel pressed for time. 4 inch springs,shackle flip,and possibly a 1 or 2 inch block sounds like a good recipe for flex to me.
     

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